GlockSpock

The good thing about a lot of sights (Gunlistings.org, Craigslist I think) is that a lot of them remove the GPS metadata when a photo is uploaded. However, there are many instances in which many people have probably posted something for sale on forums in which the GPS metadata could have easily been found. Couple that with a thief, and you have a theft.   Everyone should investigate whether your camera/phone stores this data. Personally, I like this capability and it is great for so many things. However, just be knowledgeable and remove it anytime you send someone a photo of something you are trying to sale, etc.

I'm just saying, I purchased YNAB 3 days ago at $54 ($60 minus $6 coupon). Well, right now they are having a Summer Sale, and have dropped the price to $39.99. I just went halfway through repurchasing it, and the coupon still works!    http://ynab.refr.cc/DKV5LHR   That brings your total to $33.99 even! I wrote them an email to see if I could get refunded the difference, hopefully so but if not I am still totally thrilled about the software and will continue to be as long as it stays functional. I highly suggest anyone that is interested in purchasing the software to do so right now because I don't foresee getting it cheaper than $33.99 anytime soon!   EDIT: It appears sorta odd. To get it for $33.99, it seems you click the link, click "Take me to the Store", click "Purchase/Purchase Page", add YNAB to your cart (it may show up as being $54, but after you add it and go to your cart it should show $39.99 and then a $6 coupon).

  I reconcile essentially every day. There is an option for importing an exported file from your bank. Doing this took more time than simply entering transactions manually. This "reconciles" automatically. I just add everything manually and then reconcile to my bank balance every day. Works great.

I've been going through all of this stuff, and other than aesthetics, what is the point of doing this? Does it create a jacketed effect on lead/cast ammo?

  Or a ray-gun deflecting chain mail vest...but only if you don't mind going and spending a few bucks on some of those crystal beads that are put on those charm bracelets girls wear. I believe the correct ratio should be 1 crystal bead for every 3 aluminum beads.

  Yeah, I used to think like that. It was very refreshing when I was essentially told by YNAB to start fresh. I did, and now I no longer worry about  keeping years worth of transactions. 

  Great! If when you go to purchase it, $6 off above.

Yes, it looks like this: The "original" looked like this:

  As stated in the original post, this was essentially my method. I'd calculate each paycheck to determine how much was appointed to bills, then appoint a certain amount to savings, and then consider the rest "fun money". At that point, I would spend the "fun money" down to when my account was $0. Since my bank has an instant transfer feature that would pull in increments of $100 out of savings if I overdrew, I never worried about overdraws, but it was stressful trying to make sure I wasn't spending more than I should have.    I spent more than I should have way, way too much.

In terms of accounting for business, taxes, or profit reasons, I don't think YNAB would make the cut. YNAB's main feature is for personal financing and helping you appoint where your money should go and keeping it there. daddyo is right, it essentially is the envelope method but made to work in a very nice manner electronically. Since I do the majority of my spending and bill pay using electronic methods, YNAB works great for me. 

Well, I have to say that everything about this software and the company has been a positive experience for me. I wrote them asking whether they had any significant student discounts. I received a very prompt reply supplying with a $6 off code as well as an "activation code" that provided me with an additional month free. The have very active forums (possibly more active than TGO!). Their free classes are great (essentially a webinar/screencast) and provide a great instance for learning the software as well as clearing up any issues that you might have.   If your main goal is budgeting and watching your inflows to outflows, YNAB is great.

I've taken a look at quite a bit of budgeting finance software. A few years ago I purchased Quicken Essentials for my Mac. At the time I loved it, even switching banks to get one that offered "Direct Connect" for free. I felt I was really on top of my finances. However, I suppose because I never really saw any change in my financial decisions (and thus outcome), I eventually dropped Quicken Essentials.   I gave Mint (Mint.com) a try. It's free! It is ok. It will aggregate most any service (Bank, Auto Loan, Student Loan, etc) automatically. This was its main selling point to me. It offered "budgeting tools", but once again it never really caused any change in my financial decisions.   More recently, I've decided that budgeting and finances are something that I am going to take seriously 100%. I did some research, and finally found what is called "YNAB". First, let me just state that it is Windows/Mac (partly Linux) compatible. There are also iOS and Android apps that sync (via Dropbox) and integrate perfectly with the desktop app.   Now let me explain a bit about the "theory" behind YNAB. YNAB makes your finances plain and simple: In order to spend money on something, you are having to take that money from somewhere else. Unlike Quicken/Mint,etc, YNAB encourages you to only focus on money that you have now (instead of intangible numbers that you will receive in the future). Essentially, you enter each paycheck as it comes in, all that money gets set as "Income to Budget". You can then take that money and place it into each budgetary category that you wish. Then, as you make transactions, you can see each category's remaining balance. If you over budget (budget more than your income), it lets you know quite plainly that this money has to come from somewhere. You can either reduce and shift your category totals, or YNAB can subtract that "negative balance" from next months "Income to Budget".   An example of this would be:   I make $500 this month but budget and spend $600, and then next month I make $500 again. Since there was $100 over budgeted, next month my "Income to Budget" amount will be $400 to make up the difference. It doesn't have to be this way, but it helps you remember to pay yourself back if you spend more than you make this month.    Another huge principal of YNAB is to only spend "seasoned" money. I used to essentially live paycheck to paycheck. I'd take extra money and siphon it to my savings account, feeling this was the best thing to do. I'd look 2 months ahead at what paycheck I would get vs. what bills to pay, and I'd set bills to pay on the dates that I were to receive the paychecks. This was very stressful, as it required me to constantly be looking for and bill I might not have accounted for, thus throwing all my payments out of whack. YNAB suggests saving up a "buffer". Essentially, a buffer is a full month's income. Once this has been set, you use that money to budget for the current month. Then, any paychecks you receive you mark as "Income Available for Next Month". Then at the very beginning of next month, you can open YNAB and budget everything you need for the month with a full month's income that you already have. This takes 99.9% of the stress out of bill pay, and you also come out a few cents to a few dollars ahead due to interest earned. I always knew that if I had roughly $2000-3000 as a "safety net" in my checking account that I would be able to slide right through paying bills, but I never actually took the initiative to build the checking account to that. YNAB motivated me to do so.   There are essentially 4 rules to YNAB:   Give Every Dollar a Job Save for a Rainy Day Roll With the Punches Live on Last Month's Income I would encourage anyone that might not be as financially well of that they'd like to at least give YNAB a try. They offer a free 34 full-featured demo, and free classes where you can win a free copy of the software. I'd say download the free trial and see if it improves your finances and budgeting in the 34 days they give you. Also, signup for at least the first "class" on their website. It is a live web class, and will help you get started. Plus you might win a free copy!   There is also a $6 off coupon here: http://ynab.refr.cc/DKV5LHR (whenever you decide to make your purchase, click that link and the coupon will automatically apply).   Let me know if anyone has any questions or concerns! 

  This reminds me of the time I had my iPod Classic stolen. I filed a police report with the serial number. I watched Craigslist very much for a while, and eventually saw one that could have been mine. I went back and forth with the guy over text for a while, and very lightly but repeatedly asked for the serial number to take a look at which model it was on Apple's website. He'd never give it to me, which honestly if when I try to sell something someone kept pushing for a serial number I probably wouldn't give it either!   I had a friend text the same guy, but took a different approach. I had him ask the seller if it had some specific music on it, some obscure stuff. This guy wasn't too keen on answering those questions. Overall I guess the seller just wanted cash for the iPod:)   Never did get that thing back:(

So I am assuming a turret press would likely be a good purchase? Not interested in progressive, but turret presses can speed things up quite a bit over a single stage, can't they?

So if I take everything correctly, it would be probably $.10 to $.20 a round, roughly. Sound right? 

  I think you are going to have to break everything in that list down into an expense sheet. That is how the what if game works, right?

I am thinking about reloading. I have always loved the idea, I just haven't committed to it. Now I think I'd like to purchase the equipment as I can afford it. However, what I'd like to know is roughly the CPR of reloaded ammo.   Assuming that the brass is "free", what CPR can you conclude in a quality 9mm target round?   Powder=$ Primer=$ Jacketed Bullet=&   I'd like to be able to purchase what I can from dlm37015.    Granted, I know that I am quite a ways off from actually starting, first I will probably purchase a good manual and start reading. I guess right now I am just looking for motivation to actually get started. I hate paying $21.95 for 50 rounds of target 9mm, but have admittedly purchased $43.90 worth of ball 9mm in order to shoot a bit in the previous month (I love to shoot, but have held off from doing so since everything has been crazy). I felt like I was splurging on a $50 steak or something, and it lasted about the same length too. I now am thinking I could have put that $43.90 in a jar and started looking for reloading equipment (about $200-$400 worth I suppose). But really it is the CPR for 9mm, 5.56mm, and potentially .357 that has me interested.

If I had enough money to purchase that Glock without regretting it, I'd purchase that gun just to take a picture of my local FFL's face when he did the transfer!   :squint:

I don't know if anyone else has though to check, but look at his other awesome auction!   http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=350689030

  Well, I'm not saying that he is always wrong, I think he may be right about some things. Maybe more than we would like to admit in some cases. Just be aware that he is pretty much the definition of tin foil. 

I suppose the question is what do you attempt to accomplish by prosecuting. Are we trying to punish negligence or deter negligence?    When I was a kid I was waiting in the car to go someone with my Dad. I thought it'd be cool to try and shift the gears in the car (key was in the ignition but was not started). I put it in neutral, and the vehicle started rolling backwards down the hill. By father caught on very quickly (he was inside but heard me yell). He caught up to the vehicle and managed to apply the brake. However, what if he was inside and could not hear me and the car rolled all the way down the hill. Now, it'd be a long shot but in certain scenarios either myself or someone else could have died. Should we punish father's who leave their 5 year old kids in the cars for 5 minutes before a trip in that scenario? Where do we draw the line between negligence that can be prosecuted and negligence that is considered an accident? Knives left on the counter? Bathtubs left unlocked? Toys that present choking hazards kept unlocked?   If you are trying to deter negligence, well if the thought of loosing a precious child does not cause someone to keep guns out of reach from their children, do you think that criminal actions would? Perhaps, but to me the though of a loved one accidentally dying because of my negligence is scarier than the though that I might serve jail time.   Also, charging an adult for leaving a gun out and a child dying isn't too far off from charging an adult for "allowing thieves access" to a gun in their house or car.

  But that isn't enough. After wrapping your body in tin foil you should technically wrap yourself in alternating layers of plastic wrap and more tin foil in order to create a Faraday like affect. Of course this won't work if you leave any gaps, so you must cover yourself completely.

Consider though what the cost of capital punishment could be in regard to imprisonment. I don't necessarily agree with all cases of capital punishment, but in those cases that we do use it, why prolong it so long? Take the very bottom most case:   Brooks went to a car lot under the pretense of wanting to test drive a car. A mechanic accompanied him on the drive. Brooks stopped to pick up a co-defendant. The mechanic was put in the trunk of the car. Brooks and his co-defendant went to a motel. The mechanic was brought out of the trunk and taken into a motel room. The mechanic was bound with coat hangers, gagged with adhesive tape, and shot in the head, causing his death. Brooks and the co-defendant fled the scene.     Accepted into death row on 4/25/1978, executed 12/07/1982.   Consider the cost of feeding and boarding him for a day and compare it to the cost of a 9mm ball cartridge. Which is cheaper? Funeral you ask? Who would be responsible for his funeral if Charlie Brooks, Jr had died accidentally in a car crash? Here Charlie Brooks, Jr, by the very looks of it, apparently planned 1st degree murder against someone. If anyone should pay for his funeral and the 9mm ball cartridge that takes his life, it should be anyone that cares to see him put into the ground vs cremated or the like.    It could be much, much cheaper.

  With the candlestick in the bedroom?