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GlockSpock

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Everything posted by GlockSpock

  1. So I've been field stripping it for a while now. I don't think anyone could argue that there is a firearm that is easier to field strip than a Glock. Just as easy, I could buy that. But easier? I don't believe it.   I've always heard how easy it is to detail strip them. I tried for the first time tonight. Three pins and you're done! I remember detail stripping the 1911 I had, it was very lengthy, but a process that I enjoyed. I was actually sorta disappointed at how short disassembling the Glock was. Getting it back together was easier than disassembling (in my humble opinion). So I did function checks (those possible with a Glock). Seems to be good. It is however something that I am weary about until I can go put a few magazines through just to be assured.   However, when it comes to Glocks, is it possible to put it back together and it seem to be right but it actually be wrong?   For anyone curious, I used this set of instructions. I felt it had everything I needed to know:   http://glockparts.com/Content.aspx?PAGE=Glock%20Disassembly
  2. Oh, well then in that case perhaps it wouldn't be so bad. Thanks!
  3.   http://us.glock.com/dealer-locator?zip=37311   I think you can use that to find it. It appears GT's is the closest, with one in Knoxville being the 2nd closest.
  4.   Called the local "Team Glock" advertised place. Took me 3 times of asking "Do you do GSSF pricing?" in order to get this response "We sure don't....our prices are.....about where they need to be".   Maybe I won't join.
  5.   But then you've got to do a transfer to a local FFL:(
  6. I am reconsidering this, and started wondering about the actual discounted pricing. Do most/all of the local gun stores honor that pricing as shown on the "discount sheet" from GSSF? Will it be exactly that pricing?
  7. You went and did the best Secret Santa gifting ever! I Received it a week and a half before Christmas if I recall correctly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-eAxVs7LCU#t=37  
  9. Was in JCPenny's over the weekend and saw a holiday decoration. It went like this:   Merry Christmas Happy Hanukkah Happy Quanza Feliz Navidad   I just felt that it was ironic that Christmas was on there twice.
  10.       longshot007, if you wish, speed with tnguy. If he'll accept payment from you, then I'll gladly release his magazines for you whenever you can meet up. Whenever I receive a message from tnguy saying he's received payment, I'll consider them yours.
  11.   Actually, I'm all out. Sorry, someone local claimed the last remaining five and I forgot to update this thread. Sorry! If there was enough interest, we could do it again.
  12.   Let it be noted for the epic caliber wars that even the mighty .40 S&W is not a one stop shot.
  13. So, I've taken a bit more of a look over everything. It seems you can gain 15 credits per day (30 searches) and other small daily things. Do 30 searches a day and you'll end up with roughly 450 credits a month (it could be more than that due to the daily things.   There are two different rewards levels: Silver and Gold. You start out at Silver and then gain your way to Gold after earning 750 credits total. Prizes for each level are the same, you just get a "discount" once you are Gold.   Notably, you can receive:   Hulu Plus 1-Month Subscription (450 Silver, 420 Gold) 1 Month Xbox Live Gold Membership (699 Silver, 679 Gold) $5 Groupon Promotional Card (523 Silver, 470 Gold) $3 Amazon Gift Card (340 Silver, 330 Gold) $5 Amazon Gift Card (525 Silver, 475 Gold)   Other various sweepstakes/restaurant cards. So If I do my part daily, I should be able to obtain the Hulu Subscription for free. I'll also have a few credits leftover once I hit "Gold". This isn't obviously that big of a deal, but lets do the math:   365 days in a year*15 credits per day=5,475 credits yearly. 5,475 exchanged for $5 Gift cards=11 gift cards a year, or $55 bucks to Amazon. If you already pay for Hulu, you'll save a bit more. Nobody is going to get rich by doing this, but considering how many searches I do a day all I did was replace my default search engine with Bing. They have really neat wallpapers!
  14. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9778718&rrid=_4b2494ad-380b-005b-d559-0d6cff9c6b6e   It appears that Microsoft Bing has a "rewards program" by which they give you credits for searches. You can then cash those credits in for various goods/services, such as Hulu subscriptions or Amazon credits.   ​Disclaimer: Sure, I know this is helping advertisers keep pretty nifty profile of you, but lets be honest, unless you take steps to prevent this from happening they already are doing a pretty good job of doing so.
  15. So, I've budgeted aside enough money to purchase one of these if I want. However, I find myself contemplating opportunity costs and the like, as usual.   I was actually already very interested in the Nikon scopes before they were recommended. However, I notice that the adjustments are .5 MOA instead of the typical .25 MOA adjustments seen on many other scopes.       Between the two Nikon versions, which is more highly recommended any why? I don't know that much about telescopic scopes. The one with the BDC 150 seems neat, but is that truly something that works well? http://swfa.com/Nikon-P-22-Riflescopes-C4158.aspx   To put it on an XT-22TSR, I suppose I"ll need a scope base. Whatever I do, I want something that should hold zero very well during transport. Anything in particular come to mind regarding this?
  16. I use survey grade GPS equipment rather quite often in my line of work. I am not going to try and portray myself as an expert on anything here, but I believe what the Russians are wishing to setup here in this topic are what we refer to as "base stations". In order to triangulate your position on Earth, theoretical minimum number of satellites you need would be three. Four to six are better, and anything above that you are doing great. However, typically speaking, triangulation based upon the satellites alone ss not 100% accurate. Depending on environmental factors, you'd be looking probably .5' to several feet accuracy based upon GPS satellites alone. Most of the time this is ok, but when you are doing survey work you want it as accurate as possible.   To increase the accuracy, we tie into what we refer in this field as a "base station". It is essentially a GPS unit (typically permanently installed) that constantly talks to the satellites. Without going into a lot of detail, you can connect your GPS unit to the internet (over Wi-Fi or cellular), and then receive "corrections" from the nearest base station. Typically speaking, the closer you are to the base station the more accurate your surveying. Generally, we get somewhere between .05' and .2' at work.   As far as GLONASS not being compatible with "our system", that's not entirely true. The unit I use at work can receive GLONASS signals. GLONASS has it's benefits. I used to use an older Leica unit that did not receive the Russian signals. If I was under heavy tree cover, it was useless. Sometimes (most of the time really) light tree cover would make it useless. The new unit I use (Topcon) is very close to being unaffected by tree cover. Supposedly the GLONASS frequencies penetrate cover better because of the wavelength. We don't use GLONASS much at all because it isn't compatible with the base station we use. However, if we had access to base stations that support GLONASS, I would consider this a good thing.   If I am correct regarding them installing base stations, this will typically just increase the accuracy from a few feet to theoretically half an inch. Personally from a surveying point of view, I'd consider this a good thing to happen. The GLONASS satellites themselves have the capability to direct the right form of weaponry within a few feet of intended target (I believe anyway).    Perhaps there is a huge aspect of this that I am unaware of or do not understand correctly, but considering that Russia has plenty of nukes that can wipeout cities regardless of inch accuracy, I am not going to worry about it. There are plenty, plenty of bigger things to worry about in my opinion.
  17.   Dude, if the Zombies tear your arms off....all you're gonna want is lots and lots of warm beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
  18. I'd prefer to meet local to avoid shipping fees. If someone in the Cleveland/Chattanooga area wouldn't mind letting me meetup with them to sharpen a ZT 350 (I think) for me, that'd be great. It's pretty bad right now. It is a buddy's. He gave it to someone for them to sharpen and it came back a butter knife. How, I'll never understand.   I'd sharpen it but don't want to put the time into the S30v steel right now.
  19. I just purchased this one about 2 weeks ago and love it:   GW-6900   I paid roughly $85 for it brand new. I will say that it came fully charged. I got it to sync with the tower within minutes and it has not missed a sync a single night since I've got it. It shows "RCVD" in the lower right for each time it synced that morning. If I look at it at 12:01 AM then it does not show RCVD because it typcially syncs around 1:00 AM. I keep mine in "powersave" mode. That turns off the face with it does not see light for a while. If you push a button or bring it into the light, the face turns back on. It just saves a bit of juice but the alarm, sync, etc all continue to work. It's kinda like turning the monitor to your computer off. So far I love mine and it has been my favorite watch I have ever owned. The only thing that would disappoint me is if it does not live up to the hype of 10-20 year battery life or its durability.   I too bought it because I like the idea of long term use without service. However, they do use rechargeable batteries so eventually the battery will go bad. Some people might experience it in 5 years, others might get lucky and go 20+ years. The consensus on the watch forums is if you keep the battery near tipped off it will last longer. If you throw the watch in a drawer for since months and let it die down, that's supposed to be bad for the life of the battery.   I like it. However, for longer "serviceless" use, I think a quality mechanical watch would do well. But it would theoretically become less accurate without servicing. I think that's right. I use TGO more than I do the watch forums;)   As far as pricing, I'd say that's about right for a used one if it works and is cosmetically alright.   EDIT: Ha! Upon checking my Amazon, it was exactly two weeks ago that I purchased it.   EDIT: Exact same watch, "reverse" style:   EDIT: I almost bought this one because it looks awesome. But then I decided I was paying ~$40 extra just for looks.   Very satisfied with what I purchased.  
  20.   I disagree with this. I use the cheapest HDMI cables that I can find. It's almost as bad a debate as "Mac vs Windows" or "Ford vs Chevy", but personally I don't see paying more than $2-$3 for an HDMI cable.
  21. I received something in the mail regarding this a day or two ago. It'd be worth if if it meant they would stop sending so much crap in the mail regarding renewals and stuff each year. It comes with a fairly nice looking jacket.
  22. Yeah me too. I like the bolt gun listed above bit I do miss my 10/22 and want to get one again sometime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I have a Marlin XT-22 TSR. I am hoping to put a scope on it to be able to shoot paper at 100 yards to see what it can do. I'm looking for something that is high quality and will last. I suppose somewhere between $100 to $300 is the budget, with $200 being the sweet spot. I'm looking for a magnified scope.   I haven't been able to shoot this rifle much because of .22lr availability, but so far I like it. It seems to be very accurate and I want to take it out to 100-200 yards.
  24. They've got some good specials going on right now.   500 Extra MB Free   Install and login to their mobile app and you get an extra 5GB free.   Also, some cloud service providers are more secure than others. Dropbox, for example, uses the same encryption key for all files. Dropbox can decrypt your data if someone wants/needs to. However, there are some cloud providers that allow your computer to generate keys (a public and private key). They private key is typically encrypted by your password. Essentially, they cannot decrypt your data because they don't know and don't store your password. It's a bit more complex than that, but that's the general idea. It does come down to trust at some point though. I use Dropbox for some stuff. Some stuff I use SpiderOak or Tresorit for. SpiderOak is the same idea as Tresorit, but SpiderOak has given me some serious data corruption problems recently. I say give Tresorit a try/test. I think they have a while to go, but they are off to a nice start and are currently offering $25,000 to anyone that can break into their system and decrypt user data.   EDIT: Here is their "whitepaper": https://tresorit.com/tresoritwhitepaper.pdf
  25. I've been playing around with Tresorit. It's a pretty good alternative to Dropbox. Read up on it, supposedly they have no access to your files due to the fact they are encrypted with your private key on your own computer before being uploaded. Less featured, but looks promising. Give them a try: http://tresorit.com/download.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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