GlockSpock

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Just loaded 25 rounds. Took my time learning step by step. All rounds are within .005" of 1.14". FC=3.8 PPU=4.0 PMC=4.2 WIN=4.4 WWC=4.6 Weighed each charge and tared the scales to each casing before charging. I followed the directions and tried a light crimp. Going to try and fire them tomorrow. List of everything I should watch for and do? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Oh yes, I indeed forgot something. I was reading through these instructions:   http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/Pistol4.pdf   I remembered that the bullet seating depth is not set by how far you screw in your die but rather how deep the bullet seating screw is set. I was dreading adjusting the lock rings to change bullet types but that is a non-issue altogether!   Even though I'm a bit nervous, I'm going to get started tonight and try to load a few rounds!   So what I am going to do is find 10 pieces of 5 different headstamp brass (10xFederal, 10xPMC, etc). I am going to write on a pad of paper how much powder each headstamp has, starting at 3.8 Grs and doing something like this:   3.8 PMC 3.9 WCC 4.0 PMU 4.1 F.C. 4.2 Speer   Hopefully I will have 10 of 5 different head stamps!   So, on the length, 1.15" or a tiny fraction less?   I think everything is good but the crimp. I've read the Lee instructions, suppose I"ll go with that? I want as light of a crimp as possible.

I bet I used too much Lemishine. I'll use it very, very sparingly next time. Single good drop of dish soap? I used 3 tbsp of Joy! I thought it needed lots of soap?

  Warm or cold water when rinsing? I'm wondering if I used a bit too much Lemishine, I probably used 1.5 Tsp. I guess next time I will try to make sure it gets 100% dry.

  That's something I suppose I will just have to learn to account for. I've read many places to never exceed that maximum load for a cartridge, but when different books show different loads using the same components you are bound to exceed the maximum load listed somewhere. I'm not afraid of using too little powder; I'm afraid of using too much!   As far as the maximum length goes. If I set my die to 1.15" or so for this round and then purchase some HP bullets at some point, I should be able to use the same length for the HP as with these plated RN, right?  What I would like to do is set my bullet seating die at a "universal" or standard length and then lock the lock rings in really tight so I don't have to fool with it any longer. What would that length likely be, or is it best that I adjust .05" or so between bullet types?

So I wanted to clarify something I was asking earlier in this thread.   LRN bullets take less powder because the lead creates a better seal with the barrel, right? Plated/FMJ bullets take a bit more powder because the seal is not as great thus some gases escape, right? Glock/Polygonal rifling creates a better seal with the bullet than with traditional lands and grooves, right? If I start at anything over 3.7 Grs. of the 700-X, is it possible or likely that the polygonal rifling will cause pressures in excess of safe levels?   It just concerns me starting out higher than the LRN data that IMR provides me with. In all, I need an in depth reloading manual with lots of data. I suppose I will start 3.3 Grs. and work my way up 1/10 Gr. to around 4.0 Grs.   Will 5 bullets of each load suffice?

  When I was a kid me were in the car at a convenience store. While my Dad was in the store, I took the seat-belt, made a loop with it, and place it around my neck (that's what kids do, right?). Well, of course the seat-belt tightened, and about that time my Dad came around the corner. Of course at this moment, he FREAKED. I didn't really see what the big deal was other than the fact I couldn't get it off. He tried pulling on the seat-belt to gain some slack, but it was one that locked and in order to get slack you had to first let it all the way in. It wasn't going in any further because my neck was taking up too much slack. So he cut the seat-belt.   If he didn't have a pocket knife I might have suffocated, not really sure.

So tumbled ~1200 9mm cases. I'm pleasantly pleased with this method but did run into an issue. The week old clean brass (some of it, not all) has developed dark stains/oxidized marks. I will take and upload a picture when I can, but some of the stains are black. I don't know if this means I used too much or too little of something, didn't rinse it well enough, or didn't dry it well enough.   For rinsing I submerged the brass completely in water and let it soak for a few moments. It was still water not running.   For drying I put it in a glass dish and pulled out the blow-dryer. I think I may have been lacking in the drying department because my plastic bin that I'm keeping the brass in has a few water droplets. Any ideas?

So are we using more because it isn't LRN? What about Glock Rifling? Really I want a really good manual. As far a David's 9mm plated bullets, are they Berry's? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So David sold me some 115 Gr. RN plated bullets with some IMR 700-x. I have taken a look at Hogden's website, here is what they show: This will be my first go at reloading. Was wanting general input for a starting load. My research shows that generally plated or FMJ bullets need a bit more powder than lead bullets to maintain the same velocity. Seeing as how the starting load is 3.3 Grs. and the maximum load is 3.7 grs, I suppose 3.3 is a great place to start even though I'm using plated instead of LRN bullets? Seat them so that the C.O.L. is 1.1"? As long as none of the casings exceed .750" inches I should be good, right? I've read a reloading manual (I think it was The ABC's of Reloading), however that was quite a few months ago and would like to brushup on everything before I start. I would like a digital copy (as well as a physical copy). Thus, do any of these digital/physical books strike any bells? Books on Amazon (Want one that can be purchased on Kindle).

Two points.   Don't these signs show the current number of deaths this year vs. the number of deaths at exactly one year ago? For example, x number of deaths for 3/27/2014, how many deaths were in 2013 at 3/27/2013?   Secondly, what happens when someone is in a wreck, placed on a life support, and dies the following year?

  Portsmouth, VA   Currently at $.35 a pound.

Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberry!

I posted a while back about purchasing a push reel mower this Spring. Well, the grass is about to grow....a lot!   I am interested in the Scott's 2000-20 on Amazon, but since I have no experience with these mowers I'm mainly going by the number of reviews.   Any input or anything to steer me in a different direction?

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/76487-stainless-wet-tumbling/

All of my research shows that if you want clean, stainless is the way to go. It's expensive, but $48 shipped on Amazon is about as good as it gets. My setup gets here tomorrow so I will post pictures of it all.

For anyone interested, my SWFA price match request came in yesterday. I paid $110 to MidwayUSA yesterday for the scope shipped.   SWFA's price will be $104.54 shipped.   You would have to submit a price match request here: http://swfa.com/PriceMatch.aspx   I just jumped on the deal yesterday just in case their stock sold out and then SWFA wouldn't match. It should be here Saturday. I'm excited!

  I suppose I never followed up on this. Long story short, I paid $5.80 flat rate shipping to Trijicon so that they could inspect the broken screw/bolt that holds the front sight in. They call me and tell me that since they don't have the front sight, they cannot do anything but offer to charge me ~$55 if I ship my slide to them to install a replacement. I told them that for $90 I could buy a new set and install them myself. I even told them that I had quite a few Trijicon products and was contemplating an ACOG someday. Since I did not have the front sight, they could not warranty it.   I sent a long letter to their customer service telling them what I thought. A month or so later (maybe two), UPS alerted me that a package will be delivered from Trijicon the next day. I thought "WooHoo! That letter worked!".   They spent ~$1 or more to ship me back the broken screw.   I'll be trying Meprolight or Tru-Glo next time.   I was left with an extreme distaste in my mouth from every step I dealt with them. The kicker is that from the very beginning, I asked them before I sent the screw in whether they could do anything with it and without the front sight, all they could say was to send it in. Had they initially said "we cannot warranty a product based upon a screw" I would have at least been neutral.

Just for you to readup on:   http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/56643-glocks-trijcons/#entry985375 (read the whole thread, but I linked specifically to the post of issue).

  Yeah I bought it. Don't even have a mount for it or any .22lr that I'd want to shoot. PS, I used the price match request on SWFA.com. If they approve it, the price will be roughly $105, even better! I bought it from MidwayUSA though so that I wouldn't miss out by accident.

  If the trigger on a Glock is not pulled it will not fire. How hard is that to compute?   Now, the better question is are you sure the draw string was the problem instead of the operator's finger?

Never got around to purchasing this scope, but I think I will now!   http://www.midwayusa.com/product/353448/product?cm_mmc=pe_weekly-_-hotbuy-_-full_nikon_20140319_1-_-Main_Image   $109.95 Shipped   I just wish Rimfire wasn't expensive! That's the only reason I've held off on purchasing it.  

I want to try a rechargeable Streamlight but I haven't found one I like. I haven't look too hardly at them, but do they have one that is easily pocketable for EDC, has a pocket clip that allows for bezel down carry, tailcap switch that does not switch modes, and hopefully a super duper "low" mode accessible in some fashion.   I had the Quark Pro QP2A and put a tactical tailcap on it. I liked it but I decided I disliked the mode switching because I kept strobing myself in the dark due to the long reset time. I sold in in effort to find something else and ended up just buying the Quark Tactical QT2A.   I think my next purchase will either be the Quark Turbo QB2A (mainly because I think it is slightly higher construction quality and I want to see which parts will "lego" with my QT2A head) or the Maelstrom MMR-X (because it supports USB charging and runs off of a single 18650). I think it would be too large for an EDC light but it would be nice for a chargeable home light.   The "Quark" line of lights is really nice, but their build quality is not as awesome as Surefire or Streamlight. However, I think the Maelstrom and Quark Turbo lines are a bit better. I felt of a friend's older Maelstrom, it felt as solid as a Mag-Lite and just as heavy too.   My QT2A gets here today alongside my BC-700 AA Ni-Mh charger. The package of Eneloops that I purchased came with a charger, but a charger such as the BC-700 has many options and gives you information on the battery as well. I figured that for $30 I would give it a try. Review on both items soon!

[quote name="jonathon1289" post="1126624" timestamp="1395183741"]Amazon has the TLr-1s for $93. Even with tax that is the best price I have seen and I think it is worth trying since it seems to fit my needs. I may save up and get a Surefire for my AR. Not sure yet, still comparing but leaning towards the TLR-1s.[/quote] You'll be happy with it. But when you upgrade to the Surefire, you will be happier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk