GlockSpock

  Oh I believe you, I have just never personally seen steel cased 7.62 or .225/5.56 at any Walmart at attractive bulk prices competing with online sales.

I have honestly never seen Walmart being the cheapest on steel cased stuff. Local Walmarts rarely have it and when they do it seems quite a bit more than online shipped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quote name="JWC" post="1149089" timestamp="1400167834"]How much privacy does a 4' fence provide? :hat:[/quote] More privacy than a 3' but less that a 5'. If you are a dwarf or a hobbit it is all you need, really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  Thanks! I know that so many people love their Jeeps but wasn't sure how much life a well maintained one would be expected to have. I've already cringed at the thought of halving or worse my MPG. Had my first vehicle not been an SUV I probably would be fine with the Fusion, but I just find myself wanting an SUV so badly and the Jeeps have always intrigued me.

So I have been wanting a Jeep for a while, I just do not want to pay for new Jeep pricing. A coworker with whom I have no reason not to trust has a Jeep that he is potentially getting rid of because he is getting a Tundra. He was talking in the $4,500 range. This is what he sent me:   2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 60th year anniversary edition V-8 4 WD 175,000 Miles 2" SkyJacker Lift Kit Thule Basket Roof Rack Cold Air Intake system BF Goodrich Mud Terrain Tires Two tone interior Wood Grain Rubicon Jeep Wheels Entire new suspension Entire new front end Serviced Regularly Tons of upgrades, you could sell the wheels and tires for $1500 Problems. Two Rust Spots, just needs some filler in them. Check Gauges Light comes on randomly. That's just a sensor, The person I bought it from, actually has a new sensor. When we talk I can tell you more, but in a nut shell, I wouldn't be afraid to get in this thing and go to California. It's a great vehicle I can tell you more when we talk. Just let me know after you talk to your bank and such....   KBB puts it at about $3,555 in "good" condition but they are failing to account for things like new suspension, front end, etc. Since this is a quite used vehicle if I try to go for it I will probably have my mechanic take a look at it even if it costs a bit. This would become my primary vehicle for to/from work and travel. I would want it to be reliable. We had talked about this in a previous post but if possible I will be getting rid of my 2012 Ford Fusion. If I could get rid of it for what it is worth (roughly $13,000), I could apply that extra money (I owe less on the vehicle) and come out practically debt free after I took some of my cash and put with the extra. That would eliminate a $230 debt payment a month for the Ford. I know gas will be more that what I'm paying now but $230 is a lot of gas and also can be a lot of repairs unless it is a money pit. I'd like to set that $230 asside for a few months to buildup a $2000 vehicle repair fund.   Thoughts?

The Semogue 830 is a great boar brush. The consensus on Badger and Blade is that a quality boar brush beats a cheap badger brush. Semogue and Omega make good brushes. Personally I am interested in the Weber U.S. Made razors. They are solid stainless. Also we have "Above the Tie" razors made in TN, but they are generally $200-$300 for a stainless razor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nobody gets hurt = funniest thing all month Somebody gets hurt = tragedy By the way, someone is claiming this is an eyewitness's photo: Supposedly the kids fell at around 15 feet but then the house turned into a kite.

  The thought of slicing open my jugular, and the added necisity to keep the edge maintained, are why I have not given it a try. I would like to go to a barber for a shave sometime though.   As far as what I purchased, I "splurged" because I had been wanting to do that for probably about 2 years. I could have just continued using a $20 vintage Gillete, picked up a cheap puck of soap, ordered the razors, and ordered a new brush if needed. $20 for the razor, a few bucks for soap (Vander Hagen at the drugstore is actually pretty good glycerin soap for about $2), $18 or so for the 120 razors, and $24 for the new brush if needed. $64 intital startup, then you should be around $25-$30 a year for blades and soap. You could go cheaper than that (blades can be found $10/100 and if you order the soap in bulk you can get it cheaper). Definetely look into it!       Well that probably would not give the desired results!

A little backstory:   For years I've been using an old Gillete DE Safety razor. Well, a friend convinced me to try a Braun Series 7 790c. I tried it for about a week. Using it, in my opinion, is unenjoyable and frustrating. It would give a close shave, but I have to go over each area many times because it is so unpredictiable in which hairs it will cut on which pass. Perhaps it is just technique, but I was quite dissatisfied.   Fast forward until yesterday, I decided to treat myself to some new DE gear! Merkur 39c (German Made Safety Razor, Slant Bar) [120] Crystal DE Blades (Israeli) Semogue 830 (Portuguese Brush, Boar Bristle) Colonel Conk Stand Proraso Pre/Post Shave Cream Proraso Shaving Cream Eucalyptus Proraso Shaving Cream Sandalwood Proraso Aftershave Lotion Now, this is my first "new" Safety Razor. So far I've only used vintage razors, many people claim that the old razors are much higher quality than new ones dependent upon which ones you get. I think potentially next month I am going to get one of the stainless Weber Razors that is made in USA! They only produce in batches and are sold out now.   The blades I have used before. I remember being quite satisfied with them. I just got through using a 100 count pack of Feathers. Were they sharp? Yes, but they are not as dangerous as everyone claims as long as you are careful and take your time/use proper technique. The Crystals are not as sharp but I think honestly produced a better shave for me.   The brush I have been using for a number of years (probably around five). It has almost seen its time come and go so I ordered another. It is losing bristles quite badly and once I had to reglue the knot into the base. I have not used a stand before so I just kept the brush in the mug. I think doing so caused moisture to damage the brush sooner than it would have normally degraded. So I figured I would buy another like brush since the first one worked so well over the years.   The stand was just the chepest decent looking stand I could find. As stated above, it should cause the brush to last longer since it hold it in a better, drier position.   The Pre/Post Shave cream is nice! I've used it before, it really makes your face feel nice and tingly. Expensive for the quantity, but I am going to compare results between this and something like EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) or Coconut Oil.   The Proraso Eucalyptus cream I have used before. Granted, they have slightly changed the formula since then but it should not be too different. I usually use a puck of soap but change it up to a cream sometimes because it is different.   The Proraso Sandalwood cream I have never tried but my Wife loves Sandalwood so that is a plus. Good reviews, I hope I like it.   The Proraso Aftershave lotion is something I have wanted to try for years but never got around to ordering it. I hope I like it but I think I will try imitating it with eucalytus and menthol oils in perhaps an alcohol or witch hazel base. It would be much cheaper if made at home, I just hope I can replicate it decently well.   Now, shaving with a safety razor is supposed to save you money. Or, at least, it has the potential to. But then you go and find all sorts of brushes and razors, soaps and aftershaves, blades and mugs, etc. Wetshaving is like turning shaving into a hobby. Using the Braun was like turning it into a chore.   So, the only thing that was a difficult decision was the Merkur. For those with DE experience, what razor do you use and why? If you have never tried DE shaving, I highly suggest you give it a try. How do you shave?   P.S. I have always wanted to try a straight razor I just have not worked up my nerves to try it. Someday I will!

Think about how many people wear FBI, TBI, etc shorts, jackets and hats. Not an issue until someone goes around acting like LEO. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow. That may just convince me to step into the NFA world. Really awesome for AAC to do it. What pros/cons do you see for this can? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a little side note, there are tools that you could take benefit of that simply surveys. Just saying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  If I get one I think I will primarily program it with as many local Fire/Police/Utility channels as possible as well as using it for the weather function. It will essentially be a handheld scanner because I dont' have a HAM license and will not chance transmitting without a license. However, does someone have in mind a great scanner (recieve only) that will cover a broad range of frequencies, recieve WX, and have all the features you would want in a handheld scanner for emergencies?   I plan on getting a UV-5R and then someday a higher quality handheld but I also want my HAM license someday too.

    The Baofeng UV-5R should be $33.68 with Prime Shipping. That's shipped and sold by Amazon.com. My research has shown that virtually all UV-5R's are functionally the same, the different "models" just designate small cosmetic differences. The UV-5R is supposed to be compatible with more of the accesories, some of the "newer" models supposedly do not work with the epanded battery packs and stuff.   I should just order one and get it over with, I just haven't got around to it yet. I would very much like a radio with WX alerts, but I think the UV-5R is a great starting point to get into it.

Perhaps the conflicting number is that his mother and his wife make 18 but he only killed 16 from the tower? 18 total in the tragedy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I miss that one. Should have never sold my P-01 but I wanted a Glock for a carry peice.

  My original post was not to argue against the banning of anyone. If TGO David or any number of his admin wanted to ban any member who had the letter "E" in their name that would be their decision. I was merely stated that if they are willing, I would be interested in seeing a list of whom was banned and for what reason if appropriate. Also, as a service to the existing community, I think it would be great if a contact method was provided for the banned members if it could be done appropriately.

To keep this short, I found out today that TankerHC was banned. Without going into too many details, I spoke with him today and listened to what he had to say. Ultimately, the main thing he was concerned about was that a few members were supposed to contact him and cannot. Thus, he would like for me to place his email:   ####EMAIL REMOVED####     Now, on the subject of banning members, I completely respect the authority but not always the decisions that the admin team here does. 95% or more of the time I agree with them completely. TankerHC himself agrees that TGO has changed, one of the main things that he has seen is a surprising amount of anti-gun comments from a supposedly pro-gun forum. I too have seen this from certain members at certain times. I know everyone has differing opinions and I respect that they have their own opinions. However, let us not forget that it is a possibility that anti-gun shills have infiltrated TGO; I think we would be naive to think that they have not. They would act like us most of the time but use "common sense" and consensus to suggest that certain items/laws be unreasonable and that hunting rifles are all we need or nobody needs more than 6 rounds in a revolver for self defense.   Now, on the topic of the members banned. I think it would be a service to the community if a list was published of whom was banned and possibly for what reasoning. If possible, I think it would also be a service if somehow a method was devised by which existing members could somehow get into contact with one of the banned members if needed. For example, had I not had TankerHC's cell number I would not nor would never had a way to contact him again even though personally I like chatting up with the guy. I bet there are many others here that feel the same way about some of the members banned.   If admin would rather drop the subject entirely then so be it. 

Tapatalk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quote name="Dolomite_supafly" post="1143373" timestamp="1398629061"]Nope, we didn't miss a thing. He will not be coming back.[/quote] Ban or his own choice? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quote name="Oh Shoot" post="1142897" timestamp="1398477844"]Any answer from Tanker will be via ESP. ;)[/quote] Did we miss something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never really looked into certifications of any kind but simply taught myself whatever needed in terms of technology. So I looked into the MTA certifications and they look appealing over A+ for multiple reasons (cost being a big one). Windows Operating System Fundamentals seems a good place to start for that one. Considering that right now I will likely be paying out of my own pocket for these certifications, what would be the best bang for my buck and a good certification to start with? A+ certainly doesn't hurt (especially if a company pays for you to take the test), but is MTA (or another) a better certification to start with for an IT career?

Without going into details on whether or not it is beneficial to get A+ Certified, I would like to know your experience in becoming A+ certified. I did the practice 60 questions on the CompTIA website. I don't have the exact figures in front of me but I got at least 52 of the 60 correct. Those sheets of paper are at work. I have a huge IT background but have never actually tried for any certifications. Most of the questions seemed easy to me except for a few of the networking specifics (IP Address ranges mainly).   So I'm wondering if the actual tests are easier than/equal to/harder than the practice questions. I don't plan on paying $188 per test (and you have to pass two of them of course) without studying, so any good recommendations on a good book (digital or hardback I suppose) would be great.   Since this series is digital and cheap, I thought about trying it. I can download one of them per month for free onto my Kindle since it is Prime Eligible.   http://www.amazon.com/CompTIA-Days-220-801-Study-Guide-ebook/dp/B00C7DWX94/ref=sr_1_3?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1398382269&sr=1-3&keywords=a%2B+certification+21+days   All advice please!

I personally just don't think that the problem was a light primer strike. There was a good indention on the FTF's. I tried one of them again, nothing.   Perhaps I seated them too deeply or perhaps a bit of moisture (from my tumbling) deactivated the primer. Something worth nothing may be that all of the higher powered rounds fired, it was mainly a few of the lower powered ones that did not fire.

So I finally got around to test firing these rounds. Of all of the that fired, all of them functioned in the Glock 19 flawlessly. The higher powder level rounds seemed safe and the primers looked ok to me. About 20% of the rounds would not fire. The primer would have a heavy strike but would not fire. I tried one of them again...nothing. I did not use lube during sizing and they did not come into contact with anything. I expected near 100% reliability from CCI 500 primers. My best guess is that since I primed the brass directly after tumbling perhaps there was some moisture left in the casing that did not dry properly? What else could it be? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk