GlockSpock

  Well what do you know. The local dealership that I bought the car from does not to DV reports. They'll appriase it, but by doing so they'll only "tell" you the number instead of providing you a printout on letterhead.

  I mean the reverse of this. I wasn't sure what I should do so I have yet to have it estimated by a repair shop. The insurance estimator comes to see me today and hopefully this evening I can drop it off at a shop. I was thinking that it may be smart to keep a secret to the body shop how much the insurance estimated.   I'll call the dealership I bought it from just to see what they say.

  So, is this something that most used car dealers will do for free? I don't see most being too sincere or generous unless you give them the impression you are thinking about pulling out your checkbook for them.   Is it something a Ford Dealership could/would do or more like CarMax or something?   The estimator is coming to see me today. Hopefully by the end of today I will have a rough idea of how much it will cost to fix it. I have decide to get it fixed and will more than likely take it to my personal preference body shop. I'll have him quote me before he starts work so I have a feeling whether the estimate was inline with what it should be.   I suppose at this point I should try and keep it unkown to the body shop what my estimate was. Right?   Hopefully I can get a rental today or tomorrow and start repair. After repair, that is when I should get a DV estimate from someone?   How to calculate diminished value (incorrectly).   http://kielichlawfirm.com/insurance-companies-calculate-diminished-value-claims/   So, taking the NADA value of my vehicle, it is ~$13,350 retail. By using the 17c formula, I come up with $600.75 figuring  0.75: major damage to structure and panels 0.60: 40,000-59,999 miles But the NADA already accounts for mileage in their value estimate! So why is it in the forumula? It shouldn't be, in my opinion.   Truth is that I have no idea of the true loss in value so I will have to put good faith in the appraisel after it is fixed. I'll keep everyone up to date.

Yep. Good to go on any new Kindle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The TN Reads website listed above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It also does audiobooks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It works so nice. Essentially when you check something out from your local library on the TN Reads site, you get redirected to Amazon where you click the "Rent" button. It has to be tried if you have a Kindle or any E-Reader at that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So for the diminished value...what should I expect on a car I paid $16,000 for, owe $6,000, and is worth somewhere between $10,000 and 12,000 pre-damage. 2012 Ford Fusion SE 50,000 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://blackfriday.bestbuy.com Looks like they'll have an $899 Samsung 4K 54.6". Good luck getting it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So...everyone...what Gen is this? Sorry I had to:)

http://www.settlementcentral.com/page0455.htm Interesting read.

  I was wondering about this. Because personally when vehicle shopping I typically "move on" if I see the report shows an accident. Cars with records sell for less. It would be a huge no brainer if I could just take it to Young's or Cleveland Collision and then end up with something in the checking account to cover time/depreciation/gas in dealing with all of this. Truth is I could make it look "ok' by popping some of those dents out as much as possible and pushing the bumper back in and making sure it is secure.   I am adding some photos to the original post as I type this.

Kelly Blue Book, if you still give them any worth, roughly estimates:   Very Good (I think it would have been this pre-wreck): $11,999 Private Party Fair (Arguably better than this because body work is all it needs to be in "Good) $10,541 Private Party   Now, I know that's quite subjective and to find a buyer for either "condition" would simply be subject to finding a buyer willing to pay that amount.   The difference is $1,458.

  I nearly always use TN Reads for "rentals" now (free).   http://reads.lib.overdrive.com/4FCDF64E-76E8-40CE-8769-3BCB298C0F98/10/50/en/Default.htm   But, when I dealt more with free archives and the like, Calibre and it's "send" feature was nice:)

  It seems to be driveable. I had just had an alignment before the crash and it seems to still be in just as good alignment. Not saying that nothing did happen, just saying I've driven it quite a bit since and so far so good. The damage itself is only something that would need to be "secured" a bit better. You could pop most of the damage back out but it wouldn't look perfect.

  http://www.buzzfeed.com/juliapugachevsky/if-ron-swanson-quotes-were-motivational-posters   I have to say, I likely would not watch that show were it not for him. I know most of the show's humour towards him is tongue in cheek, but I like the character of Swanson enough to watch the show regardless.   Sorry, got distracted but I will probably go with #2 unless someone has experience leading me to #1.

11/8 I was involved in a minor traffic accident in a parking lot. Essentially, a woman was attempting to exit the parking lot and had it in reverse. Gassed it and backed right up into me. Police report sided with me and the driver confirmed that she backed into me. Her insurance, State Farm, is going to take care of it. Ultimately, I have, I believe, three main options. Take it to Young's Body Shop, Cleveland Collision, or Abbra's. (If I do this, they will bill State Farm and I never have to exhange money at all). Have the damage estimated by State Farm and have them cut me a check. I can then use that money to use whomever I wish. Have the damage estimated by State Farm and use that money to pay off part of the $6,210.84 I remain on the car. Get the car fixed out of pocket at a later date. Option 1 seems to me like probably the "safest" and "easiest". Option 2 potentially allows me to come out "ahead" if I find someone that can do it cheaper than the estimate. However, if additional damage is found I think they can directly bill State Farm for the adjustment. My family knows and typically uses someone that does body work and has his own body shop. In the past he has always done good work. Option 3 is tempting because it seems like "free money" to pay off debt. I estimate that the damage is probably $2000-$3000 but I truly have no idea. The front bumper and front right quarter panel would need to be replaced. Although this option seems tempting I am not entirely sure it is even possible, nor entirely sure it would be smart. Right now I'm "steamrolling" the debt at about $500 a month. I'll have it paid off in less than a year but if I used $2500 towards the debt I could have it paid off in less than 6 months. After that I could easily afford the cost to get it fixed. But at that point if additional damage was found I would probably have to pay that amount. State Farm will pay for a rental for me while it is being fixed. Right now I am "in-line" with 2 because tomorrow is when the estimator comes to take a look at the vehicle. I am just curious about your experiences with auto insurance claims and estimates when it comes to this stuff. Do the estimators get it pretty spot on in terms of reasonable repair costs? Should I do #1 or #2 for a very important specific reason I am overlooking? Should #3 be eliminated completly or is it a viable option (I'd love to knock 4-6 months off paying that vehicle off)? Anything else to consider? What is my best bet? (Clicking the images will bring them up full resolution)

  Right. But you also have the capability of downloading/creating whatever you want and "sideloading" it via USB. Something file formats are not compatible but can be converted via Calibre. If it has DRM on it that isn't Amazon's, it is typically a no go.   What you can do is setup an email address in Calibre that is your "Add to Kindle" address.   http://www.amazon.com/gp/sendtokindle/email   Setup email based sharing of books: Allows sharing of books and news feeds by email. After setting up email addresses for this option, calibre will send news updates and book updates to the entered email addresses. You can configure how calibre sends email by setting preferences at Preferences->Sharing->Sharing books by email. Once you have set up one or more email addresses, this menu entry will be replaced by menu entries to send books to the configured email addresses.   All of this is probably a level or two above the standard "buy books from Amazon's Kindle Store". I'm not saying any of it is difficult, but for someone that isn't familiar with .epub/.mobi and then your run of the mill .txt, .pdf, etc and then on top of that USB and email server settings, it can be a bit confusing at first.

  I don't care to drink a nice caffeinated even at 10:00PM or later (I sleep just fine even then), but that's a lot of coffee!

  Caffeinated I presume?   Do they have to start an IV in the morning for you to wakeup? :snore:

  But....but....it smells so good!

No. That's like using a second credit card to pay the interest on the first credit card so you don't "miss a payment". I didn't read the article, just going by what Perlman said. I could be wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How "dirty" is the cup? My wife wants an Aeropress or a Chemex because they are supposed to be "smooth" and "clean" without any of the grind passing through. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess my only concern is that they are typically made of aluminum. Now, I'm not one to worry about most things but I believe aluminmum has been shown have a link to alhzheimers.   Other than that, can you go into more detail about your experience with them?

I have been very heavily considering getting a "Moka Pot". You can buy them locally at TJ Max or HomeGoods for $10, but Bialetti is the trusted brand from what I can tell and the local cheaper ones are knock-offs. My research shows that they have potential to make great coffee/expresso but take practice and experience. Any experience with one? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lim8HacSka4