GlockSpock

My Secret Santa did very well this year! Plastic Ammo Can Box of 12 Game Load Box of Hornady 9mm Pocket Knife Earplugs Space Blanket (I love these) CRKT Eat'N Tool Something I have never heard of called .22lr. It seems to be ammo, but it is small so I doubt it will ever truly catch on;)

Do you have a heat pump, electric auxiliary, and then gas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well from what I see most TV's only support it if they are a "smart tv". A feature worth it alone, probably not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh, by the way the are direct deposting the amount so I think what MphsTiger1981 states is correct.

So the estimate from State Farm came in at $1804.17. If there are supplemental parts that need to be ordered the body shop only needs to contact them to work it out. Hopefully that will not be needed but hopefully will go smoothly if it is.   I am having a local shop that I know to do the repair.  Dropping it off tonight so hopefully will be close to being done and done next week.   So tempting to just take that ~$1,800 and send it to the credit union (roughly 1/3 of what I owe on it), but I decided that for the pure simplicity of if something else comes up, I'd rather deal with fixing it now rather than later.   Also, I ask myself this question regarding debt payoff vs. savings accrual:   Would I borrow money to put into a savings account? No? Because that is essentially what you are doing when you strive to build savings while you owe money on a short term, non-appreciating debt.   So I asked myself if I would have let someone pay me $1,800 to smash up my car with a sledgehammer.

  I didn't care anything about smart TV's either until I read about HDMI CEC.   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#CEC   You can use it to have your Xbox One turn your TV on/off and adjust the volume. I had to purchase an IR transmitter to accomplish that task.   Other than that, I agree that smart TV's are a half solution to a problem better fixed my attachted/upgradeable boxes.

Amazon has released "Pre-Black Friday" Samsung TV's. Some of those are tempting, but I am not anywhere near the desire to actually purchase a newer tv.

  Well what do you know. The local dealership that I bought the car from does not to DV reports. They'll appriase it, but by doing so they'll only "tell" you the number instead of providing you a printout on letterhead.

  I mean the reverse of this. I wasn't sure what I should do so I have yet to have it estimated by a repair shop. The insurance estimator comes to see me today and hopefully this evening I can drop it off at a shop. I was thinking that it may be smart to keep a secret to the body shop how much the insurance estimated.   I'll call the dealership I bought it from just to see what they say.

  So, is this something that most used car dealers will do for free? I don't see most being too sincere or generous unless you give them the impression you are thinking about pulling out your checkbook for them.   Is it something a Ford Dealership could/would do or more like CarMax or something?   The estimator is coming to see me today. Hopefully by the end of today I will have a rough idea of how much it will cost to fix it. I have decide to get it fixed and will more than likely take it to my personal preference body shop. I'll have him quote me before he starts work so I have a feeling whether the estimate was inline with what it should be.   I suppose at this point I should try and keep it unkown to the body shop what my estimate was. Right?   Hopefully I can get a rental today or tomorrow and start repair. After repair, that is when I should get a DV estimate from someone?   How to calculate diminished value (incorrectly).   http://kielichlawfirm.com/insurance-companies-calculate-diminished-value-claims/   So, taking the NADA value of my vehicle, it is ~$13,350 retail. By using the 17c formula, I come up with $600.75 figuring  0.75: major damage to structure and panels 0.60: 40,000-59,999 miles But the NADA already accounts for mileage in their value estimate! So why is it in the forumula? It shouldn't be, in my opinion.   Truth is that I have no idea of the true loss in value so I will have to put good faith in the appraisel after it is fixed. I'll keep everyone up to date.

Yep. Good to go on any new Kindle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The TN Reads website listed above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It also does audiobooks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It works so nice. Essentially when you check something out from your local library on the TN Reads site, you get redirected to Amazon where you click the "Rent" button. It has to be tried if you have a Kindle or any E-Reader at that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So for the diminished value...what should I expect on a car I paid $16,000 for, owe $6,000, and is worth somewhere between $10,000 and 12,000 pre-damage. 2012 Ford Fusion SE 50,000 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://blackfriday.bestbuy.com Looks like they'll have an $899 Samsung 4K 54.6". Good luck getting it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So...everyone...what Gen is this? Sorry I had to:)

http://www.settlementcentral.com/page0455.htm Interesting read.

  I was wondering about this. Because personally when vehicle shopping I typically "move on" if I see the report shows an accident. Cars with records sell for less. It would be a huge no brainer if I could just take it to Young's or Cleveland Collision and then end up with something in the checking account to cover time/depreciation/gas in dealing with all of this. Truth is I could make it look "ok' by popping some of those dents out as much as possible and pushing the bumper back in and making sure it is secure.   I am adding some photos to the original post as I type this.

Kelly Blue Book, if you still give them any worth, roughly estimates:   Very Good (I think it would have been this pre-wreck): $11,999 Private Party Fair (Arguably better than this because body work is all it needs to be in "Good) $10,541 Private Party   Now, I know that's quite subjective and to find a buyer for either "condition" would simply be subject to finding a buyer willing to pay that amount.   The difference is $1,458.

  I nearly always use TN Reads for "rentals" now (free).   http://reads.lib.overdrive.com/4FCDF64E-76E8-40CE-8769-3BCB298C0F98/10/50/en/Default.htm   But, when I dealt more with free archives and the like, Calibre and it's "send" feature was nice:)

  It seems to be driveable. I had just had an alignment before the crash and it seems to still be in just as good alignment. Not saying that nothing did happen, just saying I've driven it quite a bit since and so far so good. The damage itself is only something that would need to be "secured" a bit better. You could pop most of the damage back out but it wouldn't look perfect.

  http://www.buzzfeed.com/juliapugachevsky/if-ron-swanson-quotes-were-motivational-posters   I have to say, I likely would not watch that show were it not for him. I know most of the show's humour towards him is tongue in cheek, but I like the character of Swanson enough to watch the show regardless.   Sorry, got distracted but I will probably go with #2 unless someone has experience leading me to #1.

11/8 I was involved in a minor traffic accident in a parking lot. Essentially, a woman was attempting to exit the parking lot and had it in reverse. Gassed it and backed right up into me. Police report sided with me and the driver confirmed that she backed into me. Her insurance, State Farm, is going to take care of it. Ultimately, I have, I believe, three main options. Take it to Young's Body Shop, Cleveland Collision, or Abbra's. (If I do this, they will bill State Farm and I never have to exhange money at all). Have the damage estimated by State Farm and have them cut me a check. I can then use that money to use whomever I wish. Have the damage estimated by State Farm and use that money to pay off part of the $6,210.84 I remain on the car. Get the car fixed out of pocket at a later date. Option 1 seems to me like probably the "safest" and "easiest". Option 2 potentially allows me to come out "ahead" if I find someone that can do it cheaper than the estimate. However, if additional damage is found I think they can directly bill State Farm for the adjustment. My family knows and typically uses someone that does body work and has his own body shop. In the past he has always done good work. Option 3 is tempting because it seems like "free money" to pay off debt. I estimate that the damage is probably $2000-$3000 but I truly have no idea. The front bumper and front right quarter panel would need to be replaced. Although this option seems tempting I am not entirely sure it is even possible, nor entirely sure it would be smart. Right now I'm "steamrolling" the debt at about $500 a month. I'll have it paid off in less than a year but if I used $2500 towards the debt I could have it paid off in less than 6 months. After that I could easily afford the cost to get it fixed. But at that point if additional damage was found I would probably have to pay that amount. State Farm will pay for a rental for me while it is being fixed. Right now I am "in-line" with 2 because tomorrow is when the estimator comes to take a look at the vehicle. I am just curious about your experiences with auto insurance claims and estimates when it comes to this stuff. Do the estimators get it pretty spot on in terms of reasonable repair costs? Should I do #1 or #2 for a very important specific reason I am overlooking? Should #3 be eliminated completly or is it a viable option (I'd love to knock 4-6 months off paying that vehicle off)? Anything else to consider? What is my best bet? (Clicking the images will bring them up full resolution)

  Right. But you also have the capability of downloading/creating whatever you want and "sideloading" it via USB. Something file formats are not compatible but can be converted via Calibre. If it has DRM on it that isn't Amazon's, it is typically a no go.   What you can do is setup an email address in Calibre that is your "Add to Kindle" address.   http://www.amazon.com/gp/sendtokindle/email   Setup email based sharing of books: Allows sharing of books and news feeds by email. After setting up email addresses for this option, calibre will send news updates and book updates to the entered email addresses. You can configure how calibre sends email by setting preferences at Preferences->Sharing->Sharing books by email. Once you have set up one or more email addresses, this menu entry will be replaced by menu entries to send books to the configured email addresses.   All of this is probably a level or two above the standard "buy books from Amazon's Kindle Store". I'm not saying any of it is difficult, but for someone that isn't familiar with .epub/.mobi and then your run of the mill .txt, .pdf, etc and then on top of that USB and email server settings, it can be a bit confusing at first.