lshel

David and 6.8AR will be at GS in Lexington, KY this weekend.

PM sent to 6.8 AR.

I need some 308 168g SMK bullets and IMR4895 powder but I don't want to fight the crowd for it. I wish I could buy from David/Sam direct, if they have a place of business.

Is there a difference in these two calibers for factory crimp? I have a Lee  30-06 die set that includes a factory crimp die. I bought a Lee 308 deluxe set that does not have a 308 factory crimp die included. I know they list different stock numbers for the different crimp dies but can you use a 30-06 Lee factory crimp die in place of a 308. The bullet dia. is the same. Help!!!!!!!!!!

It's not just Armslist, it's the Gun Shops too. I was in Huntsville yesterday and checked several GS and their prices on ammo was 1.5-2 times Nov 2012 prices. Everyone seems to be gouging. I bought a box of 20 rds of American Eagle 308 168g at Outpost Armory and it was priced $32, more than $1.50/rd. I had no 308 and a new gun, so I bought.   I constantly check 3 WalMarts in my area and never catch any ammo on their shelves, but see it on Armlists at 2-3 times regular price. I wonder how many more months this craze is going to last. The problem is you can not even find reloading components, for reloaders started hoarding these supplies. Sorry for the complaining, but ammo prices are getting to me.

I'll limited on funds having to buy 308 ammo at today's prices. I don't know if an Atlas is worth 2-3 times the price of a Harris if they both perform well. I'm trying to accumulate components for reloading 308, but they are scarce too.

I bought a lnib FNAR 308 20" heavy fluted barrel, heavy though. What is best bi-pod for the money that attaches to front sling swivel? Also should one get the bi-pod that rotates around swivel? What height range 6-9" or 9-13"? I have priced Harris bi-pods on Midway website, but don't know much about bi-pods. I plan on shooting off bench and also prone. A little advice from avid users would be appreciated. thanks

I ordered 30-06 Greek M2 Ball on 1/28 and it was shipped 3/10/13. A little over 30 day behind on ammo orders, but can not beat their price on 200 rds, $109.95 shipped.

Dlm3705, 200-300 demending on price. I'm about 75 miles SE of Nashville off I24. How do I get to you?

I have the powder IMP4895, dies, and primers but unable to find any bullets. I was looking on line for 168g Sierra BT.

Shot at 100 yds from bench using Canadian 150g M2 Ball with 2.75x Burris Scout scope. I shot 16 rounds, 2 clips. 5 rounds to sight in and last 11 rds grouped good. I'm satisfied with bedding and Amega Ranges Scout Mount.

I'm good on everything except 7.62x51(308) and 22LR. Everything else I shoot I have at least 500 rds. I hope supply catches up soon, this price gouching by dealers is fustrading. $1.50/rd for American Eagle 168g TCM is rediculus.

The FNAR twist rate is 1:12 in 20" heavy fluted barrel. I bought some Federal (American Eagle) 168g OTM 20rd for $32.99 at Outpost Armory, pure robbery. I was looking for some 168g bullets to use for reloading but they had none.

I'm picking up a FNAR308 with 20" heavy fluted barrel. What commerial ammunition and bullet weight would be best for target accuracy. Also what weight surplus ammunition gives good results? I reload and have IMR4895 to use with Garand 30-06 reloads.Will this powder burn to fast for 308 loads? What powder is good? Also what bullet weight and type is good for 308 target. thanks

If your Garand has been rebarreled, sometimes the barrel has not been indexed such that the front sight is at 90 degrees from receiver. Check the date on your barrel on right side under rear handgard and compare to date of serial number on receiver. You will have to lookup receiver serial no. for date of manufacture, try internet. If you have 2 pieces of flat bar stock about 12" long, clamp receiver in a vise with barrel up. Lay/balance bar stock on receiver behind rear sight and the other barstock behind front sight on flat surface. Eye down from the rear of receiver and see if these two flat barstock top sides are parallel. If not, barrel has not been tighten correctly. This will take an armorer or gunsmith to correct if barrel has been turned too far, if not turned far enough you may be able to tighten slightly and recheck to see if bar stock is parallel. It make take several tries. If not this then barrel may be bent or barrel crown messed-up.

"The M1 Rifle", an American Rifleman reprint from 70"s, is available on E-bay. It has alot of information for new Garand users.

I've shot the M1 at 100 yds after bedding and adding hooded .0595" aperature sight. Grouping improved but with 65+ eyes and glasses, groups tended to move horizontal. I have a Amega Ranges Scout scope mount ordered. This is suppose to also reduce barrel harmonics the way it is fastened to barrel. I'm hoping with a scope, I'll be more consistent and MOA will be more rifle than my eyesight/rifle. I have some pistol variable scopes upto 4 power and some higher powered rifle scopes to try. I'm afraid a rifle scope maybe in way of case ejecting.

What would be better a 16" or 20" barrel? I assume a 20" would be more accurate for longer distances, or would it. Would a 16" barrel would have less harmonic vibrations, thus more accurate? The 20" would give higher velocities. What do you have?

My bedding should be completely cured (week) and the boiled linseed oiled stock is finished. Now when the weather clears up, I will shoot and see if group size is reduced. I also ordered an Amega Ranges M1 Scout Scope mount so I can use a scope with my 60+ years eyes. This should give be a better idea of any reduced group size at 100 yds.

I've been considering a 308 semi-auto. I've looked at AR10/8 and the FNH FNAR 308 in 20" barrel. The FNAR literature online shows it to be sub MOA, but alot harder to disassemble. The FNAR are priced lower but see alot advertised for sale. Those that have owned both please give me your input. Thanks

I have 5 coats added so for. I plan on doing 2 more coats. I have not gotten to point where surface has a wet glossy look after drying. Instructions say to wipe down surface when it looks wet/glossy. If wet/glossy it says will be tacky for linseed oil is on surface of wood, not in the pores. How many coats does that take?

I prefer the P225 and the P220. I like the single stacks for carry. I have not found a 45acp to be more accurate than a P220. I bought my current P220 about 2 months ago and plan on keeping it this time.

I've started doing a BLO of my Garand stock and handguards. I have applied two coats so far. I wipe stocks down with BLO and leave on heavy for 1 hr then wipe down excess. First coat was dry in 12-14 hrs. Most information says it takes 12-24 hrs to dry. The most reoccurring instructions are to apply BLO once a day for a week. It also says after applying coats to let cure for a month before using. How many coats is considered adequate? On You-tube a person is showing where he applied 16 coats, I can't see how an oil finish can still seep into wood for that many coats. What is others experience on cure time before installing receiver/barrel? A month seems long. I plan on doing 3 coats on interior surfaces and seven coats on exterior surfaces. Then let stock/handguards cure for sometime prior to applying wax. But I'm not sure what that wait time is. Any input from anyone that has done boiled linseed oil finishing would be appreciated.

I disassembled bedding stock/receiver on Wednesday, not real difficult. It took some gentle tapping with rubber mallet and 1/2" wood towel to dislodge trigger group from inside top side and then to dislodge receive from stock tapping inside bottom side. worse part was cleaning out clay from recesses and release agent from receiver and trigger group. I also installed a Fulton Armory hooded aperature sight to replace original aperature. Took some silght file fitting of aperature to base. Next is restaining stock to a gunstock walut stain,  stock filler, then boiled linseed oil finish.   "The M1 Rifle" also has some pages on free floating the front and rear handguards to no contact barrel. If this is done then the rifle can not be handled by these handguards for stability is fragile. I do not plan on doing this. I will reassemble M1 and shoot in about a week after bedding is completely cured.   If anyone has any more suggesting, I would appreciate the input.

I ordered " The M1 Rifle" from E-bay and it had bedding diagram in it. I inletted grooves in top, inside and bottom of stock and applied Acraglass Gel to inletted areas and appiled clay to all holes/recesses and release agent to receiver/barrel and trigger housing. Now wait to tomorrow for all to set-up and I hopeful will have no problem in removing receiver/barrel and trigger group from the stock, Wish me good luck. My first try at bedding a rifle stock.