lshel

Is the gun show this 3/15 and 16? Where at in Tullahoma?

That's why I was asking, will a .25" or .50" cheek riser work and charging handle not get caught on it. If collapsible stock is extended completely it should not contact the riser.

It was set up as a carbine with collapsible stock.

I had seen adds for Larue cheek riser but $59 is high price compared to $18 when your on a budget.

I'm keeping original collapsible Mil-spec extension, buffer and spring and just adding the CTR stock itself. I was wanting to use cheek risers to aid in longer range shooting.

I am thinking about a cheek riser for a CTR stock (MIL-spec). The CTR stock will be on a M&P10 in 308. Magpul says that the riser may interfer with charging handle. Does anyone use cheek risers on this stock and if so what height? I would greatly appreciate your input before I waste $20 dollars. thanks

Thanks R1100R. I thought just add the correct buttstock type, but I wasn't sure. The trouble with AR's is there are too many available accessories. Deminishes the cash on hand.

If you want to change to a Magpul CTR buttstock, do you have to change buffer tube and other parts or are these common and just slip new buttstock on? I have a SW commerical 6 position collapsible buttstock on my M&P10 and want to change to the CTR style. How too?

This morning after being in freezer overnight, I took gas block and gas tube to work bench and hit back of gas block with several hard taps with plastic pallet to maybe loosen tube. I tried to pull tube out by hand, but no progress. I put gas tube in leather padded vise and clamped very lightly and had gas block sticking out one end of vise. I then took plastic pallet and lightly tapped gas block pulling gas tube from gass block opening. After seperating the gas tube from gas block, all looks good.   My wife has some plans for this Saturday morning and probably most of the day. Later this afternoon or Sunday, I'll finish installing new low profile gas block and new MI 12"' SS Gen2 free float handguard to M&P10.

I've heated gas block with a small propane torch and could not get gas tube out by pulling on tube near gas block with gloves on. Since that didn't work I put gas block and tube in the freezer for 6 hours and tried pulling gas tube out by gloved hand with gas block in a vise, gas tube would not budge. Back in the freezer over night and try again tomorrow morning. Any other ideas?   I order a new gas tube which is suppose to be here by Tuesday, if all else fails.

I'm was installing a MI DPMS .308 SS12 free float handguard and low profile gas block. I removed original gas block with Picatinny rail but tried to drive out gas tube roll pin which was a pain. I finally had to drill out roll pin with drill press. I've tried pulling out gas tube and it will not budge. Is it locktite in place or what? I've applied liquid wrench around tube and thru gas hole and roll pin hole to let stand for a while. Do I need to order a new mid length gas tube? Any advise would be appreciated.

I have always used the 357/38 spl snake shot and they have taken many rattlers while hunting/scouting in hills of Alabama. I've used 22 shot to take mice around outside of house.

Mailed by renewal on 2/07/14 and received temorary 90 day letter on 2/21/14, then received permit on 2/28/14. 21 total days from mailing reneal application to receiving premit. Not bad, and now can apply online.

About 70% of that I bought from Midway is LR and the other 30% has been LC 11.

I purchase 500 once fired LC 308/7.62x51  brass from Midway. The brass has two different headstamps: LC 11 and LC 09 LR. The dates indicate 2011 and 2009 production. The LC 11 is tighter in full length resizing die and I really have to lube brass good with Imperial resizing wax to keep it from sticking. Is this differences due to what type of weapon the brass was 1st fired in or is there different manufacturing practices between that stamped LR (long range) and the LC 11? Those that are familiar with Lake City brass educate me, thanks.

I carry either the 45 ACP and 9mm and have several carry guns in both calibers.I also have a SW 40 Glock with extra barrel in 357 Sig. I like and shoot all of them. Reloading adds to the enjoyment.

I've had both the Nano was too blocky and set high in hand. The 9mm Shield was a lot more comfortable and easier to carry.  I sold both and I bought my carry  9mm Compact M&P for it fits my hand better, more rounds, and very accurate. Everyone is different, so good luck with your decision.

I had been working up a load for 308 in LC brass using IMR4895, 168g SMKBTHP, Win Large rifle primers.Brass trimmed to 2.005" and COL 2.80". Velocity results:   POWDER             AVG VEL.    RANGE (3 SHOTS)  Primer Appearance 41.3                        2513                5                                ok 42.3                        2576               35                               ok 43.0                        2614               63                               ok 43.3                        2682               86                               pressure signs 44.0                        2691               22                               pressure signs   I also shot a 41.3 load in Win brass and velocity was 2462 fps vs 2513 fps in LC 11 brass. So the Nato brass with same powder load is building more pressure and velocity. Some loads of LC 11 brass at 43.3 g gave protrosion in primers as well did loads using 44.0g. I cut back to 43.0g  with LC11 brass and primers were okay.

Since no one had an opinion, I order the MI Dpms 308 Low height which attaches to their barrel nut using a clamp with two hex head screws. It appears that most are this way except the JP Enterprise which has an aluminum threaded outer nut that threads onto their barrel nut, but very expensive and top rail is extra. 

I ordered the aluminum vise block that uses takedown pin holes. Hope it works!

Imperial Sizing Die Wax is great stuff. I bought a new RCBS Full Length Small Base sizing die and resized about 75 cases and had no LC brass stick using Imperial wax.

I'm wanting to collect some tools for possible work on my M&P10, maybe free float handguard. What type upper receiver vise block - aluminum or nylon? I've read reviews on nylon vise block using takedown pins twisting and sometimes breaking when tighting barrel nut. Some have recommended the aluminum vise block takedown pin type being sturdier. New to AR Self projects. Which type do you use on 308 AR's?

Optics Planet also has for $449. The only thing about the Nikon M-308 is 40 MOA internal adjustment. Most longer range scopes are 57-60 MOA.  I know they have the 20MOA on mount, but I have a QD Burris mount that I like and want to use as mount on M&P10. I'm looking more at a Vortex or Redfield more MOA internal to start with then add a 20 MOA rail, but Vortex Viper PST out of by cash range.

I was using Dillon DCL spray and rolling on pad. I bought a tin (like shoe polish can) of a new lube at Outpost 89 that they said was the slipperest. Will try in a few days.

I followed the above advice and bought a tap and die set 1/4"-20NC with #7 drill bit. Drilled and taped thru primer hole and used washers and 3/4" 1/4"-20 allen head bolt. After tightening bolt down pretty good casing slipped out.  Somewhere along process I broke decapping pin. Have to go pick one up tomorrow. The 7.62x51 Nato LC brass is really going to get a good lube prior to sizing. Thanks all.