Danger Rane

I like how he closes his eyes and wears his ear pro.....not on his ears.

The 9mm Calico comes with a handy little brass catcher, though it will only work well with the 50 rnds mags. I guess they figure that if you're using the 100 rnd mags, the  :poop:  has really hit the fan and you aren't too worried about keeping your brass.

Great work. Very clean lines!

Thoughts and prayers going out for Don and his family.

Thanks for sharing.  Looks like a handy site.

Nice collection.

Not only are the Hogues cushy, they are hands down the best when your hands are wet, sweaty, or bloody and they are about 1/3rd the price of some of the other popular models.  I usually try to pick one up everytime Midway has them on sale for $14.

So if 8 "trained" LEO's can expend 12.75 rounds each (102/8 = 12.75) and still not neutralize the "threat" of 2 unarmed women.......then how does the liberal logic work to suggest that the average joe should not be able to have more then 10 rounds to defend himself and his family from all the crazy whackjobs that CA has been releasing do to lack of prison funding......retorical question of course.   I know several awesome LEOs (obviously not from LAPD) that would never operate like this, and for their sake I feel bad because it gives peope a bad taste in their mouth for Law Enforcement everywhere.   Glad these women are still alive, and I hope they don't settle for anything short of civil and hopefully criminal action against all 8 and the city.

Looks good.

From personal experience I would avoid Roggio......hit or miss on quality and their customer service is deplorable.   In my humble opinion Seekins, Noveske, and LaRue are the cream of the crop, but they are priced accordingly.....and for casual users would probably be overkill unless you just have money to blow.   As others have stated there is some serious snobbery out there in regards to what is good what is bad.....often times this can be related back to someone seeing or hearing about someone with a beard and multi-cam pants using brand x and not liking brand y.   If you only plan to shoot a couple thousand a year and are not competing then you should be fine with a $800-$1000 gun (pre-CT pricing). In fact I've seen some guys run some $800 Bushmasters really hard without issue.  If you are wanting it for primarily home defense then just make sure you get enough time in at the range to ensure it is reliable and that you know how to operate it effectively.   Two things always make me scratch my head at the range.....   1. A guy with a $2,500 high end AR with a $100 optic on it.....If you have an overall budget, don't blow the whole thing on your gun and piece together a lame optics package. There are some relatively inexpensive optics out there ($300-$500) that are suitable for most shooters. Whatever you get ensure you pair it with a quality mount.....it won't matter how much you spent on the gun and optic if the mount won't stay tight and in place.   2. A guy who spends $3K on a tricked out gun but has no clue how to shoot it effectively. There is no shame in taking a class, even a basic one, to establish good fundamentals. This is something that new shooters often overlook and should budget for.   All that being said....this is America, and for now you can still buy whatever you want just because you want to! So whichever route you choose, enjoy it and welcome to the community.

Great diagram OS, thanks for sharing.

I bought 3 stripped upper/lower sets from Roggio a couple years ago when I lived in NC.  Couldn't beat the price, the lowers were $75 a piece, but when I went to build them only one of the three sets actually worked out.  Both of the bad sets had misaligned takedown pins.  Their customer service was as bad as their machining.  I went to their shop and nagged them for several weeks before they would make it right.  Finally ended up with two new sets along with a couple bolt assemblies and two lower parts kits.  One of the bolts had locking lugs that were misaligned.....would not fit in any chamber I tried it in.  The lower parts kits were supposedly made in Israel and were actually pretty nice.  From what I've been able to tell from Roggio stuff......if you can get it put together, or in your case if it's already together, it's probably going to be ok.  Most of their issues are noticed during assembly.  Have not heard of and highly doubt it would happen that it will blow up in your face due to the specific issues most people have had with Roggio components.   As for your interest in having a gunsmith be able to tell you who made each part on the gun I would say good luck with that.  There are some specific markings on some parts that might distinguish the manufacturere, but as a whole they can be hard to narrow down to who made them and when.....and realistically it doesn't matter if the gun has been fired and is working.   Good luck and enjoy your new gun.

Looks great!

To throw more fuel on the fire....what do you guys think about gun ranges that don't allow it's members/customers to use any targets that depict "a human form" i.e. any of the targets mentioned above or even silhouettes. I am traveling in WA State right now and they have at least two ranges here that have taken on this policy of their own accord. Needless to say, I won’t be spending money at either one. It frustrates and saddens me that our country has gone so far over the edge that the slightest possibility of offending anyone is grounds to change everything in an effort to make “everyone get along”.  

Awesome collection!

I can see how it could be alarming given the current political situation, but these types of targets have been in use by elements of the military (and presumably Law Enforcement) for quite a while. The idea is to get the shooter to quickly distinguish threat or non threat via facts of the situation, instead of using feelings or stereotypes.   I still have a few lying around and got some strange looks a while back at the range when I hung up a target of a pregnant white chick holding a revolver to the head of a ginormous black dude.  

I have this same one and carry it everywhere. Batteries last a long time. Not as many lumens as I would want on a gun/tac light, but works great for everything else.

Very nice sir!

I think it would depend on what I'm "surviving".  I've always tried to stick with some common calibers (.22lr, .380 Auto, 9mm, .45 ACP, 5.56mm, 7.62mm, 12 Gauge, etc..) thinking that there would always be a bountiful supply of ammunition available.  Well obviously everyone and their brother thought the same thing, so here we are.  I guess I can take heart that after the first wave of zombies roll through, I can probably refill my mags at just about any house in TN!   If I could choose only two, I would go for a Glock 17 and an AR in 300 Blackout.

Nice setup

Awesome!

I have had the small biometric nightstand safe from GunVault for about a year. I can fit a Glock 17 with a light/laser and a Ruger LCP in it at the same time. Despite opening it about 6 times a week I have not needed to change the batteries yet, but probably should soon just in case (they say to change them every year). I have it set to read mine and my wife’s prints, and have had my children try it numerous times just to be sure it won’t open to theirs like some of the cheap ones would when they first came out. I have noticed that your angle to the safe has a definite effect on it getting an accurate read on your finger. From a lying in bed position I can always get it to open in one swipe, but from standing up next to the nightstand I have occasionally had to swipe a time or two, but still resulting in access with a few seconds. It does come with a set of keys that you can use to open it should your batteries die. One thing to note, when you push the button to have it start watching for your finger swipe, it makes a tone similar to a low battery tone on a cell phone, mine is loud enough to be heard down at the front door, even though my safe is in the upstairs bedroom. Additionally when your finger swipe is accepted it makes the tone again and then there is a slight mechanical noise as two small lifters under spring tension push the lid up far enough to slide your fingers under the lid and open it.  I have opened it with oily and wet hands, but not bloody.  Next time I get a bleed I’ll try to remember to slather some on the safe and try to open it, and then report back.   I should add, that I'm looking to get another one for my wife's new pistol, but will probably save a $100 bucks and just buy the combination one and let her choose whichever one she's comfortable with.  The biometric is nice, but maybe not $200 nice.

Nice collection!

I have young kids as well, so as much as I would like to have half an arsenal under my pillow at all times it is not responsible for me to do so.  I use a biometric Gun Vault on the nightstand to give me near instant access to a loaded handgun and flashlight. For situations where I have more time or really need to up the ante I have a locked pelican case under my bed with a loaded shotgun and AR.  I have the combo lock set up so I can open it without looking. I just purchased a new pistol for the wife so she will also be getting a Gun Vault on her nightstand.   Back when I was single I was literally able to have stuff stashed all over the house, all loaded, all the time and plenty of reloads stashed as well.   As several have already stated, even kids that are properly trained make poor decisions sometimes.  To me those extra seconds it takes to unlock the safe are worth the peace of mind that my kids won’t have a potentially fatal lack of judgment….at least not with my guns.

Well you probably just opened up a huge can of worms, as this is an often and sometimes heatedly debated topic in the long rifle community.  I have copied an article from Mike Haugen, formerly the Senior Sniper Instructor at 1st SFG, now one of the head reps at Remington Defense.  He is describing the break in for an M24 which up until recently was the Army’s primary Sniper Rifle and was based upon the Remington 700 action like yours.   M24 Cleaning and Maintenance Procedures By Michael Haugen, Military Products Representative Remington Arms Company   M24 Cleaning and Maintenance Procedures The M24 Sniper Weapons System (SWS) is a precision military grade weapons system capable of extreme accuracy if correctly maintained and cared for. Many times M24’s are damaged due to incorrect cleaning techniques. The M24 should be cleaned and maintained as any custom style precision weapon system in that the carbon and copper left in the weapon during firing must be removed to retain accuracy though the life of the system. The following procedures are recommended by Remington Arms Company to guarantee that the M24 SWS delivers the required performance in the field. In the following procedures you will find barrel break in, routine maintenance, and cleaning materials list. All of these issues pertain only to the M24 SWS but can be applied to any “sniper” or precision rifle.   BARREL BREAK IN The M24 comes from Remington ready to shoot, however it is recommended that the gun be broken in to enhance the life and accuracy of the weapon. Should you need to immediately employ or use the weapon you may disregard the break in procedure; however weapon life may suffer depending on how it is used. In order to break the weapon in follow the following steps; 1. Clear the weapon. 2. Remove the bolt. 3. Insert the bore guide. 4. Dry patch the barrel to remove any obstacles. 5. Remove the bore guide 6. Reinsert the bolt 7. Load one round 8. Fire one round 9. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 10. Repeat this (firing 1 round and cleaning) until you have fired 10 rounds 11. Load and fire 3 rounds 12. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 13. Repeat this another 9 times (10 iterations total) (firing 3 rounds and cleaning) for a total of 40 rounds being fired through the rifle (1 round x 10 and 3 rounds x 10) 14. Load and fire 5 rounds 15. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 16. Repeat this another 9 times (10 iterations total) (firing 5 rounds and cleaning) for a total of 90 rounds being fired through the rifle (1 round x 10, 3 rounds x 10 and 5 rounds x 10) 17. Load and fire 10 rounds 18. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 19. This should be 100 rounds total fired through the rifle, the M24 is now broken in.   ROUTINE MAINTENANCE 1. Clear the weapon. 2. Remove the bolt. 3. Insert the bore guide. 4. Dry patch the barrel to remove any obstacles. 5. Using a copper or bronze brush and carbon solvent scrub the bore 3-5 times ensuring that the brush remains wet (it may be necessary to add a small amount of solvent to the brush in the middle of this process). 6. Remove the brush, install the jag onto the rod, wrap a patch around the jag and run patches through the bore until the patches are coming out reasonably clean. 7. Soak a patch in copper solvent and scrub the bore 3 – 4 times ensuring that sufficient copper solvent is left in the bore. Leave the bore wet for no longer than 5 -10 minutes before removing the copper solvent. 8. Remove and wipe down the rod. 9. Clean the bolt by wiping down the exterior of the bolt with carbon solvent, clean the bolt face by using a patch wet with copper solvent (it there are brass deposits) ensuring to dry the bolt face. Approximately every 300 – 500 rounds disassemble the bolt and clean off old lubrication and reapply a light lubrication to the firing pin spring and pin reassemble the bolt. 10. Dry patch the bore until the patches come out reasonably clean. 11. If putting the rifle away for an unknown amount of time, leave a light amount of a non-PTFE (Teflon) based lubricant or solvent (carbon solvent) in the bore to inhibit rust and corrosion. If using the weapon within a day, leave the weapon bore dry 12. ALWAYS DRY PATCH THE BORE BEFORE FIRING!! 13. The exterior of the optics should be wiped off with a dry rag. They can be wiped with a semi-dry lubricant if needed. The lenses should always be covered more so when cleaning the weapon (if mounted) to keep solvents from spraying onto them. The lenses can be wiped off with lens paper in a circular motion starting in the middle working out. If working in a humid or wet environment tissue can be placed into the lens caps to absorb moisture 14. The trigger assembly should never be lubricated more than just a drop if in an environment where corrosion or rust is a problem (lubricant only attracts dust and dirt) 15. The magazine follower should be wiped off with a rag and light lubricated if rust and corrosion is a problem 16. The magazine spring should be wiped off with a rag and light lubricated if rust and corrosion is a problem 17. If the weapon has seen extensive field work or subjected to airborne dirt and sand the barreled action should be removed from the stock and cleaned out; particular attention should be paid to the recoil lug area for debris   USE OF BORE PASTES In general bore paste will not harm the barrel of the M24. Bore pastes should be used carefully and moderately. Bore paste is not a solution to poor cleaning techniques; they are an aid to barrel maintenance and accuracy retention. Bore paste should be used when needed and not for every cleaning; usually bore paste can be used approximately every 3rd or 4th cleaning. Bore paste must be used after the weapon has been cleaned as outlined above. To use bore paste follow the steps outlined below. 1. Ensure the weapon is clear 2. Insert the bore guide 3. Apply a liberal amount of bore paste (enough to penetrate the patch) 4. Attach the patch to the jag 5. Insert the rod/jag into the bore guide 6. Without pushing the rod out the end of the rifle, stroke the bore 5 – 10 times 7. On the last pass push the rod/jag out of the rifle. The patch will be very black, this is normal. 8. Remove the patch from the jag and pull the rod/jag out of the rifle 9. Wipe the rod off with a rag 10. Spray a patch with WD40 or carbon solvent 11. Attach the patch to the jag 12. Insert the rod/jag into the bore guide 13. Push the rod through the rifle, the patch will be dirty 14. Repeat this with clean patches until the come out relatively clean   CLEANING MATERIALS LIST The following list should be considered the minimum needed to adequately clean the M24 SWS. US Military manuals concerning the M24 contain important information however the cleaning and maintenance techniques contained in most of them are outdated. Most of the following items can be obtained at any reputable gun dealer or sporting goods store, however some items may have to be obtained through one of the many specialty outlets that focus on precision weapons. 1. One piece cleaning rod – 36 inches or longer. This rod can be coated or uncoated depending on availability and personal choice. Ensure that the jag and brush will attach to the rod, most quality rods will offer adapters 2. Jag (used to hold the patch) – this should be either a wrap around or Parker Hale style (for square patches) or spear type (for round patches). If nothing else is available the eyelet style may be used, however their use makes cleaning the M24 more difficult. Which ever style jag is selected it should be brass or bronze to eliminate the chance of damaging the rifle during cleaning 3. 30 caliber Bronze bore brush – ensure that it fits the rod 4. Chamber brush – a .45 caliber plastic or brass pistol brush will sufficiently clean the chamber of the M24 5. Chamber rod – a rod on which to attach the chamber brush. A flexible pistol cleaning rod or a 14 inch stiff rod works well for this. There is at least one company that offers a chamber cleaning kit that is designed to clean the chamber and recoil lug recesses 6. 30 caliber (or multi caliber) Bore guide – a quality bore guide is required to reduce or eliminate damage to the chamber during cleaning 7. Carbon solvent – a quality carbon solvent is required; multifunction solvents typically do not work as well as single function solvents 8. Copper solvent - a quality carbon solvent is required; multifunction solvents typically do not work as well as single function solvents 9. Cotton patches – US military cotton patches are some of the best available; however there are several commercial products available that work very well. The patches should be designed to work with the jag 10. Light lubrication – a light non-PTFE lubricant is used for the interior of the bore to neutralize the carbon and copper solvent and can be used to wipe down the outside of the weapon and optic 11. Gun grease – a quality gun grease is used for the bolt lugs (just a drop on the sides and rear of the lugs) 12. Clean cotton rag   OPTIONAL ITEMS The following items are optional for maintaining the M24 and serve to ease cleaning procedures but are not mandatory. 1. Bolt disassembly tool – used to remove the firing pin assembly. There are several types available; anyone of them will work well. 2. Dental picks – used to clean the “hard-to-reach” areas inside the receiver 3. Pen light – used to see into the chamber 4. Silicone rag – for the exterior of the weapon and optics