Danger Rane

I can see how it could be alarming given the current political situation, but these types of targets have been in use by elements of the military (and presumably Law Enforcement) for quite a while. The idea is to get the shooter to quickly distinguish threat or non threat via facts of the situation, instead of using feelings or stereotypes.   I still have a few lying around and got some strange looks a while back at the range when I hung up a target of a pregnant white chick holding a revolver to the head of a ginormous black dude.  

I have this same one and carry it everywhere. Batteries last a long time. Not as many lumens as I would want on a gun/tac light, but works great for everything else.

Very nice sir!

I think it would depend on what I'm "surviving".  I've always tried to stick with some common calibers (.22lr, .380 Auto, 9mm, .45 ACP, 5.56mm, 7.62mm, 12 Gauge, etc..) thinking that there would always be a bountiful supply of ammunition available.  Well obviously everyone and their brother thought the same thing, so here we are.  I guess I can take heart that after the first wave of zombies roll through, I can probably refill my mags at just about any house in TN!   If I could choose only two, I would go for a Glock 17 and an AR in 300 Blackout.

Nice setup

Awesome!

I have had the small biometric nightstand safe from GunVault for about a year. I can fit a Glock 17 with a light/laser and a Ruger LCP in it at the same time. Despite opening it about 6 times a week I have not needed to change the batteries yet, but probably should soon just in case (they say to change them every year). I have it set to read mine and my wife’s prints, and have had my children try it numerous times just to be sure it won’t open to theirs like some of the cheap ones would when they first came out. I have noticed that your angle to the safe has a definite effect on it getting an accurate read on your finger. From a lying in bed position I can always get it to open in one swipe, but from standing up next to the nightstand I have occasionally had to swipe a time or two, but still resulting in access with a few seconds. It does come with a set of keys that you can use to open it should your batteries die. One thing to note, when you push the button to have it start watching for your finger swipe, it makes a tone similar to a low battery tone on a cell phone, mine is loud enough to be heard down at the front door, even though my safe is in the upstairs bedroom. Additionally when your finger swipe is accepted it makes the tone again and then there is a slight mechanical noise as two small lifters under spring tension push the lid up far enough to slide your fingers under the lid and open it.  I have opened it with oily and wet hands, but not bloody.  Next time I get a bleed I’ll try to remember to slather some on the safe and try to open it, and then report back.   I should add, that I'm looking to get another one for my wife's new pistol, but will probably save a $100 bucks and just buy the combination one and let her choose whichever one she's comfortable with.  The biometric is nice, but maybe not $200 nice.

Nice collection!

I have young kids as well, so as much as I would like to have half an arsenal under my pillow at all times it is not responsible for me to do so.  I use a biometric Gun Vault on the nightstand to give me near instant access to a loaded handgun and flashlight. For situations where I have more time or really need to up the ante I have a locked pelican case under my bed with a loaded shotgun and AR.  I have the combo lock set up so I can open it without looking. I just purchased a new pistol for the wife so she will also be getting a Gun Vault on her nightstand.   Back when I was single I was literally able to have stuff stashed all over the house, all loaded, all the time and plenty of reloads stashed as well.   As several have already stated, even kids that are properly trained make poor decisions sometimes.  To me those extra seconds it takes to unlock the safe are worth the peace of mind that my kids won’t have a potentially fatal lack of judgment….at least not with my guns.

Well you probably just opened up a huge can of worms, as this is an often and sometimes heatedly debated topic in the long rifle community.  I have copied an article from Mike Haugen, formerly the Senior Sniper Instructor at 1st SFG, now one of the head reps at Remington Defense.  He is describing the break in for an M24 which up until recently was the Army’s primary Sniper Rifle and was based upon the Remington 700 action like yours.   M24 Cleaning and Maintenance Procedures By Michael Haugen, Military Products Representative Remington Arms Company   M24 Cleaning and Maintenance Procedures The M24 Sniper Weapons System (SWS) is a precision military grade weapons system capable of extreme accuracy if correctly maintained and cared for. Many times M24’s are damaged due to incorrect cleaning techniques. The M24 should be cleaned and maintained as any custom style precision weapon system in that the carbon and copper left in the weapon during firing must be removed to retain accuracy though the life of the system. The following procedures are recommended by Remington Arms Company to guarantee that the M24 SWS delivers the required performance in the field. In the following procedures you will find barrel break in, routine maintenance, and cleaning materials list. All of these issues pertain only to the M24 SWS but can be applied to any “sniper” or precision rifle.   BARREL BREAK IN The M24 comes from Remington ready to shoot, however it is recommended that the gun be broken in to enhance the life and accuracy of the weapon. Should you need to immediately employ or use the weapon you may disregard the break in procedure; however weapon life may suffer depending on how it is used. In order to break the weapon in follow the following steps; 1. Clear the weapon. 2. Remove the bolt. 3. Insert the bore guide. 4. Dry patch the barrel to remove any obstacles. 5. Remove the bore guide 6. Reinsert the bolt 7. Load one round 8. Fire one round 9. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 10. Repeat this (firing 1 round and cleaning) until you have fired 10 rounds 11. Load and fire 3 rounds 12. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 13. Repeat this another 9 times (10 iterations total) (firing 3 rounds and cleaning) for a total of 40 rounds being fired through the rifle (1 round x 10 and 3 rounds x 10) 14. Load and fire 5 rounds 15. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 16. Repeat this another 9 times (10 iterations total) (firing 5 rounds and cleaning) for a total of 90 rounds being fired through the rifle (1 round x 10, 3 rounds x 10 and 5 rounds x 10) 17. Load and fire 10 rounds 18. Clean the weapon (see ROUTINE MAINTENANCE) 19. This should be 100 rounds total fired through the rifle, the M24 is now broken in.   ROUTINE MAINTENANCE 1. Clear the weapon. 2. Remove the bolt. 3. Insert the bore guide. 4. Dry patch the barrel to remove any obstacles. 5. Using a copper or bronze brush and carbon solvent scrub the bore 3-5 times ensuring that the brush remains wet (it may be necessary to add a small amount of solvent to the brush in the middle of this process). 6. Remove the brush, install the jag onto the rod, wrap a patch around the jag and run patches through the bore until the patches are coming out reasonably clean. 7. Soak a patch in copper solvent and scrub the bore 3 – 4 times ensuring that sufficient copper solvent is left in the bore. Leave the bore wet for no longer than 5 -10 minutes before removing the copper solvent. 8. Remove and wipe down the rod. 9. Clean the bolt by wiping down the exterior of the bolt with carbon solvent, clean the bolt face by using a patch wet with copper solvent (it there are brass deposits) ensuring to dry the bolt face. Approximately every 300 – 500 rounds disassemble the bolt and clean off old lubrication and reapply a light lubrication to the firing pin spring and pin reassemble the bolt. 10. Dry patch the bore until the patches come out reasonably clean. 11. If putting the rifle away for an unknown amount of time, leave a light amount of a non-PTFE (Teflon) based lubricant or solvent (carbon solvent) in the bore to inhibit rust and corrosion. If using the weapon within a day, leave the weapon bore dry 12. ALWAYS DRY PATCH THE BORE BEFORE FIRING!! 13. The exterior of the optics should be wiped off with a dry rag. They can be wiped with a semi-dry lubricant if needed. The lenses should always be covered more so when cleaning the weapon (if mounted) to keep solvents from spraying onto them. The lenses can be wiped off with lens paper in a circular motion starting in the middle working out. If working in a humid or wet environment tissue can be placed into the lens caps to absorb moisture 14. The trigger assembly should never be lubricated more than just a drop if in an environment where corrosion or rust is a problem (lubricant only attracts dust and dirt) 15. The magazine follower should be wiped off with a rag and light lubricated if rust and corrosion is a problem 16. The magazine spring should be wiped off with a rag and light lubricated if rust and corrosion is a problem 17. If the weapon has seen extensive field work or subjected to airborne dirt and sand the barreled action should be removed from the stock and cleaned out; particular attention should be paid to the recoil lug area for debris   USE OF BORE PASTES In general bore paste will not harm the barrel of the M24. Bore pastes should be used carefully and moderately. Bore paste is not a solution to poor cleaning techniques; they are an aid to barrel maintenance and accuracy retention. Bore paste should be used when needed and not for every cleaning; usually bore paste can be used approximately every 3rd or 4th cleaning. Bore paste must be used after the weapon has been cleaned as outlined above. To use bore paste follow the steps outlined below. 1. Ensure the weapon is clear 2. Insert the bore guide 3. Apply a liberal amount of bore paste (enough to penetrate the patch) 4. Attach the patch to the jag 5. Insert the rod/jag into the bore guide 6. Without pushing the rod out the end of the rifle, stroke the bore 5 – 10 times 7. On the last pass push the rod/jag out of the rifle. The patch will be very black, this is normal. 8. Remove the patch from the jag and pull the rod/jag out of the rifle 9. Wipe the rod off with a rag 10. Spray a patch with WD40 or carbon solvent 11. Attach the patch to the jag 12. Insert the rod/jag into the bore guide 13. Push the rod through the rifle, the patch will be dirty 14. Repeat this with clean patches until the come out relatively clean   CLEANING MATERIALS LIST The following list should be considered the minimum needed to adequately clean the M24 SWS. US Military manuals concerning the M24 contain important information however the cleaning and maintenance techniques contained in most of them are outdated. Most of the following items can be obtained at any reputable gun dealer or sporting goods store, however some items may have to be obtained through one of the many specialty outlets that focus on precision weapons. 1. One piece cleaning rod – 36 inches or longer. This rod can be coated or uncoated depending on availability and personal choice. Ensure that the jag and brush will attach to the rod, most quality rods will offer adapters 2. Jag (used to hold the patch) – this should be either a wrap around or Parker Hale style (for square patches) or spear type (for round patches). If nothing else is available the eyelet style may be used, however their use makes cleaning the M24 more difficult. Which ever style jag is selected it should be brass or bronze to eliminate the chance of damaging the rifle during cleaning 3. 30 caliber Bronze bore brush – ensure that it fits the rod 4. Chamber brush – a .45 caliber plastic or brass pistol brush will sufficiently clean the chamber of the M24 5. Chamber rod – a rod on which to attach the chamber brush. A flexible pistol cleaning rod or a 14 inch stiff rod works well for this. There is at least one company that offers a chamber cleaning kit that is designed to clean the chamber and recoil lug recesses 6. 30 caliber (or multi caliber) Bore guide – a quality bore guide is required to reduce or eliminate damage to the chamber during cleaning 7. Carbon solvent – a quality carbon solvent is required; multifunction solvents typically do not work as well as single function solvents 8. Copper solvent - a quality carbon solvent is required; multifunction solvents typically do not work as well as single function solvents 9. Cotton patches – US military cotton patches are some of the best available; however there are several commercial products available that work very well. The patches should be designed to work with the jag 10. Light lubrication – a light non-PTFE lubricant is used for the interior of the bore to neutralize the carbon and copper solvent and can be used to wipe down the outside of the weapon and optic 11. Gun grease – a quality gun grease is used for the bolt lugs (just a drop on the sides and rear of the lugs) 12. Clean cotton rag   OPTIONAL ITEMS The following items are optional for maintaining the M24 and serve to ease cleaning procedures but are not mandatory. 1. Bolt disassembly tool – used to remove the firing pin assembly. There are several types available; anyone of them will work well. 2. Dental picks – used to clean the “hard-to-reach” areas inside the receiver 3. Pen light – used to see into the chamber 4. Silicone rag – for the exterior of the weapon and optics

  Person to Person transfers were still legal according to the state at that time, not sure if they still are. The organization that put on the gun show had enacted that policy of their own accord, reportedly as a result of unsafe gun handling and some questionable sales in previous years. I personally didn't mind it. They were very up front about it so no one had expectations of it being otherwise. I wasn't a big fan of not being allowed to carry there, but consoled myself that I might have a better chance of walking out of there without getting accidentally shot by some yahoo that couldn't keep it in his pants (you know, the guy who looks for any occasion to whip it out and show everyone because he thinks he's cool, but is really just a big tool).

There are stupid people in every community, most certainly plenty in the gun community.  There is rarely a trip to the range that doesn’t have me grimacing at the ignorance or carelessness of my fellow gun owners. While I 100% believe that it is an individual’s right to own and carry a weapon as a way of defending themselves, as well as a way to keep tyrannical leadership at bay, I do think it is also everyone’s responsibility to do so in a safe and orderly fashion.  I see too many people handle their firearms in the same flippant manner my son plays with his toys.   In my line of work a Negligent Discharge would mean a career change, so it is something I don’t take lightly.  I have heard many gun owners (even on this site) talk about NDs as though they are unfortunate but commonplace.  In my experience, if the basic rules of gun safety (that many have heard 1000 times yet ignore) are practiced, it is virtually impossible to have a negligent discharge, and in the event one did occur it would not result in an injury because the weapon should be pointed in a safe direction.   I have not yet been to a TN gun show, but I have been to several in WA.  They had it clearly posted that no concealed carry was allowed, and that all firearms brought into the premises where cleared by the staff and action zip-tied.  Additionally they had two colors of name tags that patrons wore.  One color said you could look but not touch (firearms), the other color (which required membership and background check) indicated that you were cleared to handle and purchase.  Needless to say there was no “gun show loophole” at this venue.  That being said, several of the vendors were acquaintances of mine, and they said that they really liked how much it cut down on Joe Blow wandering around wanting to finger f*ck everyone’s guns and not buy anything.

  My limited understanding of self defense laws would lead me to believe that if I am in a situation that justifies me shooting someone with the intent to stop the attack it would not matter if I had specifically targeted the head to do so. However if you dump an entire 30 round mag into one intruder it will probably raise some eyebrows.

Can you upload a picture of your upper in current configuration and also a picture of your rail that you are wanting to install.  That way we can tell you exactly what you are missing and how to make it happen. 

Funny how their answer to solving these problems all revolve around limiting access to an inanimate object. Not just any inanimate object but guns specifically.  Their band-aid approach to the problem will only serve to limit the law abiding from access to said inanimate objects.    I think even those that are not "gun people" should be worried that elements of the government are either 1) Stupid enough to think that this one-sided approach to a much larger problem will actually work. 2) Up to no good and manipulting the emotional turmoil these recent tradgedies have brought on our country to further their agenda of systematically disarming us.   This is not a gun problem....it's a WTF is going on in our society that these crazy m*therf*ckers are thinking the answer is to kill a bunch of innocent people problem.  Until we get real and address whats causing that....it doesn't really matter what we try to limit access to.

  Good to know, thanks for the info.

Thanks for the link sir.  Sent.

  Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for you that you were able to get a discount on your Glock.......but I'm curious as to how dealing with narcotics as a pharmacist equates to an LE discount?

Glock 17 and iPhone.  Neither have ever failed to work.    1911s are great, but I like the idea of being able to put down 17 zombies without reloading. :stir:

The only 40mm "hollowpoint" rounds I have ever seen were made from copper rod stock turned down on a lathe.  The picture you posted as an example appears to be turned down from aluminum rod stock......that could get interesting as many of the modern low velocity (undergun and stand-alone) launchers use aluminum barrels.   Presuming you have all the legalities of such a venture worked out.....One option would be to use Delrin rod stock as a sabot and cast your hollowpoints as Red suggested.  You can also use it as a cup/wad if you wanted to get creative with buckshot or flachette.   The Delrin is obviously cheaper to buy and easier on a machinist tools, so it would presumabley be a cheaper alternative for you.  Additionally, if you walk into a machinists shop and hand him the dimensions for a generic looking plastic "plug" he might ask fewer questions than he would about your medieval looking aluminum venture.   Whichever direction you go with this, please let us know how it works out.

There are several models out there with Ambi safeties and magazine release (advise not calling it a clip around here). Asking for an Ambi slide release narrows the choices a bit, but there are a few out there. HK and M&P come to mind.   From one lefty to another, I would avoid going into it ruling out all options not catering to our genetic superiority :rock:   I have found that left handed specific models, or those heavy with ambi features can cost more up front and are sometimes more difficult to offload if you decide later you don't like it.  This is specifically true with rifles but applies to pistols as well.   I have found that with proper practice a lefty can easily learn to adapt to the controls of most handguns and rifles and be just as fast (and sometimes faster) than "the rights".   Good luck

As a rule I always have whatever is on my person (be it a holstered pistol, slung or hand carried rifle/shotgun) loaded and chambered. It does me no good if it's not. When not on my person (regardless of in the safe or not) they have a magazine loaded, but no round chambered. I don't leave my bolt guns loaded up in the safe, just my detacheable magazine fed pieces. This is a topic which everyone has a different opinon, but to me the most important thing is to always be consistent with whatever method one chooses.

I have five Surefires.....the oldest of which is around 9 years old. I have been switching over to the LED lamp assemblies as they become available for my various models. Have dropped a few of them over the years and only had one instance of needing to replace a lamp assembly (is was an incandescent) as a result. I have been "gifted" with and acquired other brands along the way, to include Maglites and Streamlights, but none have lasted as long or worked as well as the Surefires. It probably goes without saying, but the higher lumen output you are using, the more often you will be buying batteries. I have seen several guys get 200+ lumen lights, and use them for tasks that could just have easily been done with 30 and then get pissed that they are replacing batteries every couple hours.....so if you want a multi purpose/tactical light, spend the money on a decent dual-outpul LED model (35/150). Good Luck

I have to agree with Hawkeye. I trained so much on a RH bolt gun growing up, that by the time I saved up and bought my own LH version....it felt completely unnatural. From what I have seen, the high end LH guns cost more than their RH counterparts, and there are significantly fewer potential buyers if you change your mind later. In my experience, with proper practice a Lefty can shoot as fast and as well on a RH gun as the rest of them.