LawEnforcementSalesTN

Like the looks man.  Much better than when you picked it up ;o) I may have to pick me one up and make it a post sample ;o) talking about a fireball ;o) 

  Worse yet, how bout "Hey, show me your hands"  ... Ok as gun is coming up in compliance...  "gun gun gun!" pop pop pop... There's accidental shootings with folks with cell phones in their hands... Hell Stevie Wonder could see a 26" AR ;o)

Not that I would ever want to arbitrarily just toss my gun but there's something about a gun that is tethered to your arm that has always concerned me.  Maybe it's the LEO in me.  I've never had to toss my weapon in my career but I've sure as crap have had to toss my flashlights, asps, ticket books and other items I've had in my hands and go hand to hand ASAP... like to call it "sugar to sheot" ... can happen in a blink of an eye.     Reminds me of my old skateboarding days... I use to do a lot of ramp boardning, others had skates tied to their feet... always felt better to me I could kick the board out away from me so easily when those guys with skates were stuck with riding those puppies into the ground ;o)

Scenario 1-> You swing by your buddy's house for a quick beer or twelve.  He works for Joe's Title & Loans down the road. He spent summers working for his dad tuning 45s and has a knack or skills that just blow you away.  You leave you gun with him to tune it for you and tell him you'll pick it back up when he's done.  He does this as a favor or you give him an old TV you're not using - I'd think you and your buddy are perfectly ok.   Scenario 2-> Same situation but your buddy does 5-10 guns per week.  His skills are putting a little money in the bank for him.  He's building a following by word of mouth.  Does this out of his garage like I do ;o) .. Ok still IF your buddy does this while you're over in the corning drinking up the beer in his fridge.  If you plan to leave you gun or any of the others plan to leave your gun, your buddy best be applying for a FFL.  This is the gray area I see during his transition phase.   Regardless of who you are, best NOT be shipping a gun or even a gun's serialized receiver to ANYONE that does not have a FFL.  Only exception are FFLs who are sending an item BACK to the original owner.  You can ship me a firearm, I can repair it and legally ship it back to you even though you do not have a FFL so long as it was you who sent it to me.    As others have stated, know what part on your gun is considered the receiver/frame ... Most pistol slides, barrels, internal parts, etc...  CAN be shipped to anyone as they are not considered the registerable part.  Frame and Receivers whether whole or stripped are what to watch for.   My personal experience with the ATF has been such I'd want to say even in scenario 2 I don't think anyone would lose a gun. They 99% of the time want you to do the right thing and will help guide you. I'd think buddy would get instructions, maybe a warning to cease and assist until properly licensed.....BUT, there is always that one Prick among us who's wife just cheated on him with his brother or best friend and he hates the world right now... or he drives up and buddy has a Mercedes in the driveway he's paying for by doing this on the side under the table and winds up having to jump ATF agent's car off b/c he's driving a clunker and the battery is dead... point being we all have bad days and do things that are out of character for us the other 364 days of the year ;o)

I'd think you'd be ok with the latest cerakoting. Just keep in mind all finishes wear eventually... seen some Glocks I thought were hard chromed and realized they were just worn ;o).

  If your goal of the Tenifer it's merely to "protect" the finish underneath the cerakote, some like myself, will parkerize the metal parts before refinishing.  I park all metal parts before I coat them for just this purpose. Gives a good undercoat for protection and the maganese phosphate crystalizes and provides a good adhesion surface as well.   I can tell you though cerakote is tough as freaking nails... yes you can chip it but it wears very well.    If you're doing this yourself, I'd think you could blast the slide with a much lower air pressure - 25-30 PSI.  I do this for polymer materials (stocks, forearms, skins, etc..) before I cerakote ... but I'd think you could dust the tenifer with a low bead blast that would not remove it but still rough it up enough to allow the top coat to adhere adequately....   I have always blasted Glock slides completely therefore I do NOT know though if the tenifer has some lubricant properties that might interact negatively with the top coat.

I really can't see the courts allowing this to continue.  It's 50/50 for the folks who made these guns but ok, even if a few trickle back in.. you can bet you butt IF they stay approved they'll never be transferable so good job for the few who beat the system.  They will (looks like they have) stop approving them. You can also bet you fanny those folks will probably be watched like a hawk and the second they light up a cigarette in a no-smoking zone will probably be picked up and hassled.   How I see it, a trust is not a person but on the same token a person is not a trust. Yet it is a person who "makes" the machinegun which after May, 1986 can only be done for use by a governmental agency.  A trust cannot make anything, it can only be the recipient of property.  I think you'll see the ATF push this fact pretty heavily.    I also agree with John.. I know folks with $100K of transferables who would gladly see their guns back worth nothing in a heartbeat to get the 1986 law reversed and MGs allowed again.   Will be an interesting set of events to follow.

Thx OS!   csc8569, I have a flat jig, rail jig and a few other AK related tools.  I've built a couple.  AKs are not my speciality but I do work on a couple every few months.  I'd highly recommend Troy if you're wanting professional AK build.   Outside of that, if you're wanting to do something completely on your own, you're welcome to use my flat jig, press and tools.  I've tig welded rails on the few I've done but the best jobs I've seen have come from those spot welders you can pick up for a couple hundred bucks.   Unless you're going to be building going forward, the jigs and tools can get very costly very quickly. Even with me having the jigs and tools now, it's still hard to justify pressing a flat and doing all the welding when you can pick up a Nodak Spud receiver for around $100!! If you're looking to build just one I'd highly suggest getting one of his "rolled" receivers ... his are heat treated and come with the rails and center brace fully welded in.    But ping me if you can't find a hobbyist or build party and we'll work something out.    Good luck!

Nothing wrong with trying to chase the threads just be sure you have the right thread pitch.  I usually will recommend folks to just step up the next thread pitch to be safe but not familiar enough with the scope mounts available to the contenders.  Would have to see your mount to make further recommendations.   Highly expect you should be able to find a smith local to ya but if you don't and the DIY doesn't pan out... PM me and we'll discuss options, happy to help ya out.

  Yeah I waited almost a year scared to shoot it in the 338 config ;o) ... Kris finally grabbed it when we were out that day.. I have the video of us shooting it for the very first time and laughing afterwards... I swear the 338 was easily as quiet if not quieter than the 308 subs... if the freaking round wasn't $7 a pop it would keep that barrel on all the time!!! ;o)  Guess I'm going to have buy my favorite bullet boy some more dies and brass ;o)   As far as the AI, most definitely concur...I use to shoot that baby in my backyard when I first had it built... stock Corbon she was a quiet as my suppressed 22LR M16 trainers.  I loved/still love that little folder... DTA is proving to be a great platform but that little AI really kicks some ars!!!  Good to see she's getting out and playing a little in the sun!

[quote name="csaxj3" post="1179322" timestamp="1407972199"]If I drive to Knoxville will you engrave while I wait? :)[/quote] You've seen the signs. Twice the fee if you watch :o) If you can send me your info and prep the lower (decide where you want it engraved and I'll tell ya what I need done before you come) I'll get things programmed ahead of time and sure if you make the drive I'll fit ya in.

Jeff, I use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black on my black receivers I do (if the customers want that) .. it does well but FYI, you can temporarily use a Sharpie and it will be ok too... excess will wipe off with gun oil if you get it before it dries. It looks worse than it is b/c you're seeing bare aluminum and it's yours ... seriously isn't bad, just a little large. I've used fonts that size on some personal shop guns b/c I really wanted them "seen" but blacken it out and you'll be ok. I use a font size that's about the size of your fire control markings... 1/8" or smaller... Aluminum Black works good for nicks and scuffs too. I've done several CMTs now and I can tell you those and the Noveskes are the hardest surfaces I've seen in the AR world. I do what I can though to fit things on the front face of the magwell and/or underneath on the trigger guard. I'm not a master engraver by any means and will tell you the laser engravers do a much better job but the old HAAS I got is good enough for Governement work ;o) Hate you're not pleased with it though ;o( If you happen to be coming through the Knoxville area anytime I'd be happy to throw some Alumi black on it for ya for free. Good luck! I can go much smaller too but depth becomes an issue. If the receiver is bare we can do smaller than normal but I've seen some finishes that are a few thous themselves. I use this size for instance on my HK and Glock sears.. That's a 22LR for reference :o)

I don't have old pics but I had a set of brushed aluminum slotted on my commander - have crimson trace on it now, just sits in the safe as it was my first gun when I became a cop way back ..... I think those would look good with that 2 tone you have though...  The black slotted ones would look good too... I was surprised how well they gripped with the slots... was worried about being click if I sweated or they got wet but I like the metal grips... ran some on my P238 when I had that too ...

  Ha right, I barely have time to load my mags with shelf ammo ;o) ... Mr Kris has done a ton of load development for me.  Only one I know outside of a "Type 10 FFL holder big boy name on the side of a box of ammo guy" that loads as much as he does ;o)    You see I have cracks in my concrete because I have 15000 lbs of machinery sitting on it ... he probably has that much weight in primers alone ;o)   JK but I am expecting to hear about a huge sinkhole opening up in Hendersonville ;o)   In all seriousness he's done a lot of R&D with these cans and loads and is more than willing to share.    Glad you're enjoying the AI ...Everytime I see you post a pic it makes me feel good I got her to right home!

Yeah we use to stick all kind of stuff down in there... you'd be surprised what a few drops of hand sanitizier will do on a dry can.  We've caught up in technology and the cans today are generally quieter. There's still cans you can shoot wet it just gets messy... but dry/wet does make a difference.   I'm sure ammo was the factor on the mite you heard. You need to slow any bullet down to 900-1000 FPS to get it subsonic.  Shooting a CCI Stinger through any of these cans will have you scratching your head but yeah to get hollywood quiet, it's the right ammo.  I can shoot a mite here and you hear the bullet hit the tree... I live in an all brick neigborhood, close neighbors and I have no issues shooting my 22's and 9mms in the back yard.. can't even hear them if shooting the right ammo. My 308 and 338 bolts are quiet too but I just don't have the back stop for them ... but the noise wouldn't be a probem;o)   The Sparrow gets the nods from the cleaning side but I honesly am not in love with that clam shell lock up they have... I find it's easy to over turn the outer shell... I really like the element II if you're looking for a nice K baffle system. they're nice cans.. come with an assembly/disassembly tool too ...   The 5.56 is a hard round to suppress as you can't get it subsonic and normally cycle the action - like on a gasser... but the 300 does wonderfully. I have some 208s that cycle my guns great and are super quiet...around 950 FPS...they even make heavier bullets .. I've shot a few 220s and I've heard of a new round coming out close to 300gr .. that's what I shoot with the 338!!!  All my 308s have been on bolt guns but I've standardized on my 30 cal rounds to the 208 AMAX ... it's nice to be able to load both 300 BlkOut and 308 for my DTA with the same bullet and powder.   The Phantom LT is a great small QD mounted suppressor... the M2 is slightly larger but does a little better in my opinion b/c of the increased volume. They come off and on quicker than many I've seen... the SND6 is nice but I can sell a phantom for $585 and the SND6 is $800+ ... some shops sell them for $1000.  I don't particularly like the SDN mount as you have to keep the ratchet depressed while it's being removed... not usually a big deal but if you ever have to do it hot it's a PITA.. the phantom your break it free with one turn and then you can baby it off if it's hot ...   308 wise, if you have a bolt action, I'd highly recommend Thunderbeast arms.. they're expensive but these boys do precision cans... I've had pretty good success with the GD on the 308s but if all depends on if the host is a gasser or bolt.  I try to use thread on cans as much as possible when I do bolt setups b/c of the accuracy. The QDs are great for popping on and off but if you want repeatability it takes a special can to pull that off.   Just some stuff to ponder.. you're on the right track and I'm sure with the members here we can find you an opportunity to see, hold and hear them all.. I want ya happy more than anything. Waiting sucks and nothing more heartbreaking than being disappointed on the other end of it.

I've had several come through the shop with this problem. I've always just re-tapped the receiver stepping up to a 8-40 thread... you don't even need to drill larger, just use the tap... the receiver is soft enough.  The 8-40 matches more of your standard scope screws anyways.  The 10/22 receiver is aluminum and as Oh Shoot states, there's not much room to go with longer screws.  If the 1st half is boogered it's probably not going to yield a good lock up anyways and when you torque them down they may wind up stripping the other half..    If you want to try longer bolts first, you're looking for 6-48 thread. Pretty sure that's the factory thread pitch. Just be careful as you can run the bolts into the receiver channel. If you were trying this route I'd also pick up a 6-48 tap and retap the holes just to clean them up and give them the best opportunity to hold.   Brownells sells longer bolts too if you have time to wait for them.  Found this a few minutes ago while looking ...   http://www.brownells.com/optics-mounting/electronic-sights/mounting-hardware/brownells-146x48-scope-base-shop-kit-prod795.aspx   Good luck!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the words.   Sorry for being late in the game here. Had some medical stuff earlier in the week.. just getting back on the saddle again and dusting things off.   Photoguy, if this is your first can I highly recommend you have a 22 in the mix. They're going to give you the biggest wow factor.  While the 30 cals will still be impressive, the 300 is actually a great round to suppress, with a 8" barrel it's still going to have a little pop. I've seen folks disappointed expected to hear the bullet hit the target.  It's doable but the host and round has just as much to do with the equation as the can does.  We shot my 338 Lapua DTA thru a Thunderbeast can a while back and it was as quiet as my 9mm setups are.   But I sell a bunch of YHM cans - phantom LTs, M2s, Mites, you name it... I personally feel they have one of the best bangs for the buck.  I know on a meter this can or that may be 3-4 decibels quieter but you'd be suprised standing beside them. I have trouble telling and in fact there's cans that physically sound quieter even when the meter tells otherwise.  Been doing this for a very long time ..   Silencershop did a 30 cal test a few months back on the meter.  I think the Specwar was on top, Phantom M2 I believe was 2nd with the SDN-6 or LT coming 3rd/4th... it's posted here on the forum but again, having shot them all I'd say you'd be hard pressed to find anyone who could close their eyes and tell you which was which.  So past that it comes to weight, asthetics, etc... I like the looks of some cans over the weight of others... stuff like that. My suggestion is buy what you like and will work better for your platform.   Currently I have a lightly used YHM Phantom LT and a brand new Thunderbeast 30PSS Moderator here that I can demo/shoot. Just got a couple of YHM Mites in too.  We can pull one and demo it.    I have new YHM M2 Phantoms and Silencerco Sparrows in route but they were just ordered last week.  It will be another 4-5 weeks before they're here.  I normally don't list inventory until it's here onsite but just a heads up.  I can get you just about anything you want pending availability.    I also have several different 30 cal and 22 cans on hand in transfer (to customers).  If there's something you just really want to see let me know and if I have one I'll contact the customer and see if he/she is ok with me showing it to you here in the shop.  You could at least get a feel of the weight and the true looks.    For 22, you'd mentioned the Sparrow. I sell the Sparrows, they're great cans.  The AAC Element II competes with it very well as well. They're in the $400 range and are good if you're thinking you'll be doing multi-caliber - they'll support the 22 mag, 17HRM and a few others.  A big seller for me is the YHM Mite.. it's a single core aluminum suppressor but it shoots well and I can't tell it apart from the others.  It's also priced so you can usually get it AND pay your ATF tax and still be cheaper than the cost on the others can alone.   I have several guys in your neck of the woods that I'm sure, if you can get a demo shoot location, would love me to bring their cans to them and let them have a little personal time with em ;o) ...sure they wouldn't mind you standing behind them and listening.   Kris and others have offered here to let you hear theirs.  If you've never heard a 30 cal, hearing a SDN or M2 or anything will give you an idea of what they all will sound like.    I'm about 2.5-3 hrs from your area but I'd make a trip up to sling some lead. Even could bring a few of the toys I have in the safe and let you guys play a little.  Just need a location and the ammo...most my toys have a bad appetite ;o)   If there's anything else I can answer feel free to drop me a PM or give me a call. Be happy to check prices and availability.   Stay Safe!

Local prints are ok as long as they're the BLUE on white cards - they will not accept the red on white.    You DO need to have the Martinsburg ORI on them   WVATF0800 ATF - NFA BRANCH MARTINSBURG, WV   I also tell folks to be sure the person taking the print signs the prints and their agency (My Local PD/Address) is on the address/title line   then all your normal stuff needs to be filled in ..   SSN Sex Race Hgt Wgt Eyes Hair DOB POB - place of birth     My paper mailed forms are dropping tremendously.... I'd highly expect the transfer times will be close to the same unless they split the examiners back off again and put them on efile.  In the beginning, they split half their staff and put them on the efiled forms... well this was great for the folks starting to efile b/c they went to the front of the line ... the paper filed folks got the short end of the stick as resources that were cutting through the mix got split.   Right at the end when things went down, my efiles were 4.5, almost 5 months... my paper is dropping now and should in the 7 month range very soon.   Don't get me wrong, efile is great and I still prefer using it simply b/c of the ease and it's nice to see your filings actually made it in the system... just warning there's a lot of folks I know who are holding off until the eform 4s come back so I think we're probably going to get another surge when it starts back .... these folks are just a big balloon... you squeeze them on one end, the other is going to pay for it somehow ... but personally I think the guys and gals at the ATF are doing a great job!!  I try to commend them every chance I get b/c I know many do nothing but complain.     As far as trusts, regardless if they make you print or get signoff, they still will be very valuable for what many have touched on here... you can have beneficieries that can "enjoy" the items in the trust same as the trustee/s can.  When set up properly the skipping of the probate BS for your family when you die is another valuable benefit. 

Without a doubt the most useless but cool looking feature on these guns...  the weapon was designed by Stoner where if the bolt did not close you were forced to eject the round, probably a bad round... When the army added it to the A1 design in 67/68, without a doubt it caused a few lost lives in Vietnam... force a round, then rip the rim off the case when it won't come out - busted gun.   But I can say in the 16 years I've been a cop, I have used it a few times when approaching a home/building and needing to charge my weapon quietly.. THAT has been the only time I've ever had a need for it.   As the others said, it doesn't look like a crack to me but more like the tool bit exited or entered too close to the receiver when machining.  I've never had one crack and I've broken several pins off installing.  Even if it was a crack you'd still be ok.

Ha, that's what I pay for 6 of em .. bet the ATF's technical branch could get it to slamfire and still call it a weapon!

Sorry for not catching this sooner, been a crazy last couple of days.  Always happy to help if when I can.   frmus66 ... if you're still needing some work done, just let me know what you're wanting and I'll respond back to ya.  PM is ok if you're prefer or an email to my address below.   Thanks for the nods guys!  You're all the best!!

Ethan, I don't have a Savage Barrel nut tool but if you happen to have one or can lay your hands on one we can do this when you come up to do you AR stuff.

Tactical Innovations makes a screw head pin set.. it's nice for oversize/improperly machined/out of tolerance receivers.  I use to run them on a lot of my shorty full autos - especialy the 9MMs ... they're brutal on the pins.. Only downside is their OD is slightly larger - kit comes with a drill bit... so as Yoda said.. "One you start down the dark path, forever will dominate your destiny".  I do like the cleaner look of the screws though over the KNS (just personal preference) but the KNS do work and are more importantly reversable should you want to pull them out ..   The pins are not suppose to rotate either, that's what causes your wear and damge when they do.

Still no Form 3s either... just Form 6s

Jeff, if you were able to submit it you're probably ok ... they're still processing the efiled forms.. .the system just won't let you create a new ones.   Pull up your Form 1 items and if it says submitted you're good.