LawEnforcementSalesTN

You can get an 18" .. I know Wilson makes them but get your checkbook out ... I can say they are purdy ;o) ...

It will work ... there's better protectants but as a cleaner it's ok.. it's meant to remove fouling in the bore.. left overnight, few days... but I've wiped down wood and plastic and haven't seen any negative side effects. 

  Well just saying, I've seen old photo's of Gordon... he couldn't be maybe 4th/5th grade tops and he's holding that dang suppressor... story he was telling back then was he couldn't wait until they developed a 300 blackout round and he was old enough to own the rifle for it     :rock:

yeah the alumablack won't take any depth away at all.. it's a pure liquid with the consistency of something like alcohol, etc... it just has a chemical effect on the metal... you dab a bit on a q-tip and just rub around in circles. Wipe off the excesss.. doesn't mark the existing coating much either if you wipe it off when it's still wet...  I'd think the laser engraving would do great with it as I expect it's nice an even...if there are imperfections the blackening will bring those out as it doesn't fill anything it will just make the shinny aluminum a matte black color.    I use it to touch up rails, receivers and it will even blacken steel to an extent. It's good to have around if you own any black rifles...   That IS aluminum we're seeing underneath right? the laser did cut through the finish coat right?  I've seen some receivers with some hard white primer like undercoat .. but if it's all aluminum and evenly done I think you'll be happy... it will make it super subtle but you should be able to see it tilting it in the light.   I know it takes a decent laser engraver to get any depth, not these $2-$5k models... those table top engravers are great for marking knives and etching but it takes a decent $20-$25K laser to get the depth or so I've been told.. I'd love to have one but my old HAAS does a decent enough job I can't justify.. but the lasers do a much neater job than the engraving machines in my opinion.

Hard to tell how deep it is but if you throw some Alumablack on it, it will turn the aluminum black .. it's not a coating it's more a reaction.. it's what I use after I engrave.  I do not think the engraving looks that bad.  As you stated .003 is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper..  I go to about .02 and it's still not that deep when you compare to the manuf engraving.. many of those are stamped too .. the engraving bits are hard to get small enough to make the minute detail of the letters and then hard enough to go through to a deep depth without breaking.  That 7075 can get pretty hard you'd be suprised.  Most of my customers want something subtle usually too but I've never had any problem post blasting and the engraving still showing up after a fresh cerakote job.  Just be careful if you do paint over it to not coat thick in those areas and I think you'll be ok.   Was it laser engraved? Can't tell from the photo but it looks like it to me.  When spikes was rolling my receivers for me the engraving was very shallow and done on their laser engravers.  My HK416 doesn't have anything deep except the pictograms on it .. the serial number, HK logo and everything looks like a bead blasting and they'll be gone.     http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/blackening-browning/aluminum-black-prod4941.aspx

Thanks guys! It was nice to meet you Dean, I appreciate you taking the time to come down and see me.  As always, happy to help.

  Howdy Stan, you ever get that K-pack firing?   I can engrave just about anything but I can't pick up an existing engraving on the CNC.. I can most definitely make a new one. I'm sure there's hand engravers that can trace and do nice job if you have something you need made deeper.     Keep in mind the ATF only requires .003 which is litterally about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper... I usually will allow it make a few passes until it looks even but I don't like going too deep unless the font is a decent size... most my NFA I'll use a letter height of around .110-.120" (Michael Dresner would take about an inch of width across to give an idea) .....depth is usually around .005-.01... it's not as pronounced as some .. I can can deeper no problem at all it's just the bits I normally use only have a point that starts to widen out the deeper you get... so I've found this works well and is still plenty for the requirements.   The polymer engraves wells too..   Glocks I usually engrave the bottom side of the trigger guard or bottom rail.   The laser engravers give you the best finish but I'm always firing up the HAAS to engrave something for someone ;o)   Kris is right, it's $35 for standard NFA engraving plus any shipping if it's not a drop off/pick up..If your (or anyone for that matter up your area needs anything) I most definitely authorize him to be the transport anytime ;o)   Happy to help,     Thx guys

Concur with Whisper, a micro would be the safest to clear anything.  If you want a better one, get a clamp version .. Not that I do use a lot of the set screw versions, they're not bad but the clamp models work better and are easier to lock down with more force and avoid possible movement down the road.  On the set screw models I will further dimple the barrel for the set screws once I'm sure the weapon cycles effectively but it's not always necessary... just an added safety feature.  Get it firing, remove one screw at a time, use a ball end mill (a drill bit will do too) and then set that screw and move onto the 2nd.  Doesn't take much just enough so the block won't spin or move forward/backward without backing the screws off.   Blocks will range between $25-$40 ... I've personally never seen any functional difference among the various manufacturers.  Some sell adjustable and that's a whole different story but a base gas block is a base gas block.   Good luck

Brain fart sorry, Door will lock back and work as designed.

Yep I shoot mine with standard port doors. There's nothing on a 9mm bolt to keep the door closed but that's about it

Nice cans...I've sold a few, no complaints from those who get em... the Silencerco Octane HD is a great can too... AAC has extended their $200 online credit/accessorie voucher if you purchase before 12/31 ... be sure if you get one to not miss out on rebate.

PM me tomorrow, I can get ya some

  Yessir, we all shot yesterday ... had a damn blast... best shooting ever, all the major manufacturers turned out and gave everyone free suppressors and ammo.....ATF was onsite doing instant no-tax approvals on them too.... blue angels flew over... Hooters girls there with free wings... great day man... everyone was asking where Verne was???    Ha, sorry V, couldn't resist yanking ya.. hope you've been doing well.   We do need to breathe a little life back into it.  Wife just had double knee surgery last Friday so it knocked me out of this past weekend had it taken place.   Guess we're back to planning another date... be nice to see everyone though. 

Yep shoulder stock a recommended plus and you need a VFG. Only problem is the gun is so violent I don't like my hand being that close to something that is held on by a polymer rail that was intended to hang a weapon light. In fact go to YouTube there's a guy shooing a FA glock VFG breaks and he puts 3 rnds into his hand.

Well we can definitely make the sear option happen. :o)

I like the concept of the G18 ... back in the day one of our entry lead guys had one ... I always saw it more as a defensive weapon though... those "Man I stepped into a big old pile of sheot... better back out" guns.  2 pulls of the trigger I don't care how quick you are to come off it and you're empty.  They're crazy like 1800+rnds/min.   As far as being practical or fun to shoot - neither.. not trying to knock anything off your bucket list but I'd push a beltfed or something else in front .. something that is going to put a big ole grin on your face.  The 18, even with a 33rd clip is a burp and it's gone ;o)  I can say for me, one who has got to shoot just about anything it was a big let down ... 2 minutes on the range and I was done .. for life.. never had the desire to shoot another and that's been 15 years ago.   As 173rdABN said most rentals are sears ... the G18 even for us who can get one are costly ... $3-$4k where a glock WITH a sear $500-$600 ... so probably going to be a stretch finding one as a shooter.  A glock sear will also work on most any model Glock where the G18 is only 9mm.  I like the sear approach and do make and sell a few to local egencies.   I feel the sear is also easier for the operator to see what position the selector is in ... the G18 design was neat but it's a cumbersome pistol in my opinon to manipulate under any stress. 

ORI needs to be   WVATF0800 ATF - NFA BRANCH MARTINSBURG, WV   At some point as recent as the last 4-5 months it was still accetable to write this (being you could use anyone's cards) but it MUST be the info above or they will be rejected back.  They may have since changed, I haven't spoken to them directly on this I just know I've got back 4-5 forms in the last 6-7 months where we did them locally here and wrote the ORI after the fact.   Forms need to be FD-258 (blue on white background)... there's other that are identical but if they're not the blue on white they'll be rejected.   This is for a FFL but is a good instructions on what goes in all the boxes on the print cards.   http://www.atf.gov/files/forms/download/atf-f-5310-12-notice.html   Mike

Yeah I'd like to try some ... we like hot peppers... Mark's were some of the hottest I've had... I'm not pepper expert and at my age it's taking it's toll on me but I love spicy/hot food.  Just a few when you have some ready to spare.  I don't like having too many lying around as the little one is grabbing stuff out of the fridge now so we have to hide them but I'd like a couple to try.   Thx

If you can spare a few I'll gladly take em. I wasn't aware the seeds would last but that's cool. Hot little SOBs :o) Thx Mark :o)

I thought you slipped a roll of quarters back in the box to fool me when you were down fondling it a few weeks ago ;o)  Hey, where can I get some more of those hot ars peppers you brought me ;o)

I like the look and feel of the Tavors but they do blow crud back in your face when shooting suppressed.  Nothing against the Tavor itself, It's just something bullpups unfortunately inherit.   But the RW boys do some damn nice work no doubt!

Semis will be milled flag around where my yellow line is. Or even below.

Call the jail. That's where we do ours here. Sorry about the local pd. Ours only charges $5 per set.

Your local PD or Sheriff's Department can arrange that.  Local PDs are best as the Sheriff's mostly do this at the jail.. but either way if all else fails.  Some UPS centers now do it.. Mail Boxes ETC, etc...  just be sure they're done on the FD-258 cards and if you're not going to use ATF provided cards you'll need to be sure to get the correct ORI informaiton and write on them before you send things in.

Stan... can you show me a pic of the lower side of your carrier... I'll be able to tell immediately if it's a semi carrier. It's either a semi carrier or your shelf height as you mentioned.. very common problem with the clones.. If you can't get it working I'm an 02 manuf and I can help repair it .. Couple of additional ?s ... is this the first host you're using your fleming pack on? the K clones use the exact same internals as a regular size MP5.. the housing is the only thing different... I don't understand it shooting semi auto though if the the sear isn't getting tripped you should get 1 round fired and then nothing.. remove the pack to find the hammer cocked ... Even on semi auto in an HK/clone the auto sear is used... unlike a M16 where the sear is disengaged during semi auto operation. If you have another host that works we can work to get your SP89 clone working. Just wondering the background on the sear pack. May push me to a few more things to try. You can call me tomorrow if you'd like and we can talk about a few things. Good luck Here's a pic of a MP5-40 FA carrier. Yours will be shorter of course but if you look at the top left you'll see that little ramped area. On a semi, the ramp will not be as pronounced as this is. Many will have it milled completely flat. That is what trips your sear lever. So if it's missing the top 1/8" or so of the ramp it's a semi carrier. I can weld them up for a sear trip as well if you find you don't have a FA carrier. Or you can get one from Robert at RTGPARTS.COM or Adam at HKParts.NET