LawEnforcementSalesTN

  :up:   90% done with a RPD kit now for a gentleman, my first RPD demil rebuild but it's been a fun project.. got to headspace the barrel and I'm ready for test fire....     Next, Kris and I have a box full of 249 parts ready on the table... just got the last few pins and stuff in last week so hope to have it rolling soon.   There's been quite a few M60 parts that have been sitting on top my HAAS mill since I got it.. but I already have one of those in the safe... love the belt feds... born, bred and beltfed ;o)     Stan, good to hear both Ralph and Jeff got ya fixed up ... nice videos..

of all the above, Cerakote is probably the best for the DIY .. I (still) use their ambient dry and it does well.. has a high heat threshold which for my suppressors, receivers and such work well (lot of things full auto get hot fast).  While it's used mostly for scopes and plastics, the ambient has held up very well on my ARs, pistols and skins on my bolt rifles.  The heat cure is the best for metal but you need a dedicate oven and it's a little more aggravating to deal with ... mixing hardener and such .. the ambient you just shake and spray... any left pour it back in the jar and it will last a good little bit.   Blueing is the worse.. several steps you have to do, flush tanks, displacement tanks, salts, etc.. it gets nasty and is dangerous and will rust anything metal within 25 feet ..don't ask me how I know ;o)  Parkerizing isn't as bad but still a PITA for a onesess twosees type of jobs ..   While you can use the cold blues, they do good for touch up type stuff but I wouldn't recommend using this as a complete refinish.   Unless you have several guns and/or just want to do it yourself regardless the cost, sending it off will be far less costly than procuring the compoments you'll need.

That's a great price Gordon, expecially shipped.  ;o) get her coming!

Rex, I tried to get you to get a 22 last year ;o)     Concur with gr8smiles.  Sparrow gets the nod for cleaning, haven't hit anything yet better.  I can beat that price quite a bit though.  Just got a couple Sparrows in yesterday.  I also have a few Element IIs and er, well...maybe a Mite or two ;o).   I know the guys give the mite a hard time but it's a great little can for the space that it fills, at least at what I sell em for.. to be multi caliber at that.  Yes it's a bear to clean if you don't stay on top of it but for what I can sell them for as a plinker I like them a lot.  True, I wouldn't pay retail for one over the others by any haul.   The only negative with the Sparrow is it will usually have a bit of a first round pop.  But hands down gets the vote for cleaning.  The Element II is a very nice suppressor too if you like the K baffles... Silencerco dropped the prices on the Sparrows last year (ACC dropped the E2 a bit as well), been a lot of price shifts so competition is working well for us all.   I'd never seen the PTP Tactical, none of my primary distributors carry it but I looked on their website and it looks like a nice can. Given the price on the surface looks like a pretty darn good deal.  I'll have to check with them and see if I can get any demos and let you guys know.  The Mite has been my bottom end entry for quite a while but if their quality control and delivery is where it should be the scout looks like a much better product.

You can get yourself a small wooden dowel rod (about 1/4" in diameter) and may can adjust yourself there.  Just a light tap... if you were closer I'd glady do it for free for ya.  Good luck, I'm sure someone will be along soon with a smith in your area.

  I didn't see RWF's prior post and I'm sure as an attorney John you're seeing more of the denial ?s come across your desk than my experience as a dealer through my transfers I do.  I also need to say 70% of my customer base is federal local goverment so that may have a big part my success... I've only had 4-5 denials out of 400+ approvals over the last 2 years... but I do deal with TBI and personally don't think it's anything on their part... now they all follow rules to collect paychecks and I can't speak to anyone above them with more power and their agendas.. you get into the senate and house and that's where a lot of this personal BS exists and I do agree it NEEDs to stop .. but the average Joe in the trenches with TBI is just like you and I .. been pretty good folks from my perspective.   1) I do 100% agree the appeal is TBI's means for the customer to find out the "why" and I'd expect everyone should want to know this, otherwise it's speculation, assumptions and we know how quickly things can go, as I like to say, from "Sugar to Sh*t when we apply those ;o)  As far as who sends the fax, shouldn't matter, I'd gladly help my customers or anyone for that matter but they will only reply to the appeal back to the customer directly not the transfer dealer.   2) Depending on what's found, to correct going forward in my few experiences has been different.  I have not had a repeat transfer in my handful so I don't know if there is a note added to TICS/NICS or whatever. I expect as RWF states it's probably something that plagues the buyer until the root issue is corrected. He mentioned a PIN # and they may assign some reference but there's no way for us to send that during the approval.. I assume that may be just an expedited means to fax TBI afterwards and get the reversal info back to the dealer ASAP. THIS I can empathize would SUCK!!   Regardless though on the repeating impacts to same applicant, there's something with the applicant's name, prior address, SSN, charge, whatever that is causing the flag and I assume will continue to cause them to be denied until something is done.  I don't believe anyone is profiled outside of a disgruntled agent, personal issue and if so that employee should be immediately fired and action taken.  Nothing, outside of training, sporadic mistakes, should impacting these transfers.     With the repeats, they're of course either warranted or not.... when "NOT", is when they need to come to you guys to get it off, fight for em, etc... ;o)    I do concur 150% if it's unwarranted, the state need some way to systemically denote/clear the issue in efforts to keep the customer from continuously "proving" themselves. I'm just not privy to their systems to know if there's a means to do so at TBI's disposal.    We all know charges can be expunged but require the expertise of you and your bretheren to correctly do so.   The event has been done as I suggest use their requested means to find out why.. once we all know we can further recommend what, if anything, can be done to push forward.  If you were a random mistake, the fact you appeal will have them look harder at the why and any error on their part will be reversed and they should tell you.  If it's nothing you should get an apology but would know/feel better about future purchases.

The thing with the appeal is you need to see exactly WHY they denied and that's the only vehicle to do so... they won't (normally) disclose over the phone.  I wouldn't just take any automated response and as I've stated they won't tell the dealers anything unless it's a friendship thing and I don't really see them doing that.  The appeal form is the only way really to accurately get your root problem.  If it IS the prior charge, then you have the artifact you need to then speak with a firearms attorney and know what options you have.   I honestly do not believe it's anyone trying to harrass or personal agendas... most of them, heck ALL the folks I've met from TBI are pro gun and are for us.  They do a lot of thankless stuff for us all.  I frequently get calls and emails from them saying dealer X in Y has a customer looking for an old model smith this or that... or an agent looking for something personal ... They don't have to do this and if they hated us they wouldn't.  I know there's bad apples everywhere but my opinion, for what it's worth, is something on your record (right or wrong) caused an exception and you need to know what .. most of this is automated but if something kicks out from the NICS check, it then goes for a quick analyst review.. now, might be you happen to hit the lease experience analyst or whomeever, they then hit the wrong button or whatever...      My suggestion would be to call the dealer Monday... get the TICS # and fax the appeal and see what it says.  I would not stack attempts on top of each other as I highly expect there's something on the record that's making the automatic approval kick out and will continue to do so..  You applied and unfortunately they denied... if this is new for you and the first time, appeal it and see why.. my experience has been this, as aggravating as I know it is to the customer, they've (ALL) ended up in the end with their weapon.    I do not know everything about the state's statutes around probation, alcohol, DUI influences and such ... some on here I'm sure know it much better from either curiosity or necessity to find out for themselves ... but TBI will get it right and it may just take them getting the form to do their thorough due dillegence... I never got a "give them the gun we're sorry" ... but I have got several "give them the gun after furter discovery we are reversing our denial decision" .. that's the ultimate result you want.    The bottom line is if it IS the DUI that caused this, please remember it's YOUR DUI not theirs... you've already manned up and admitted to making that bad decision and this may just be some residual you'll have to deal with. It's sounding from the other post it shouldn't be anything to limit you so I assume your reversal chances appear very high.    All of this is my experience as a dealer and my opinion.  Nothing is meant to be condenscending and I hope it's not taking as that .. just seems logical to me this would be the best route.   As always, best of luck in getting it quickly and easily resolved.

Most I've had John required the buyer to obtain affidavits from local LEO office which took time on their part. I'd expect if it's something TBI could clear they would but that hasn't been my case. These have been proved you're not John Doe #1 from Kalamazoo or your social is 123 not 321, etc.

That's very strange from TBI, can I assume they (TBI) told you?.  I understand if you the buyer called but all my denials have just said DENIED, no reason and no need to call b/c they won't tell us dealers nothing.  As Oh Shoot and others stated, just appeal... all of mine have been stupid stuff like same name, bad records, etc.. took a little legwork but all weapons picked up on approved TBI email sent to me telling me to do so - all within 30 days but I believe they have 30 days to responde.. average has been 10-15.   The appeal form has to be downloaded from their website -> http://www.tbi.state.tn.us/firearm_check/firearm_docs/tics_appeal_form.pdf   You'll need your TICS Transaction ID from the dealer if you don't already have that.   Are the NFA transfers to your direct name or a trust?    Good luck

"Rocking my Accuracy International AE MK3 and "Aaron" rocking my old Accuracy International AW that is now Mike's (Lawenforcementsales)"         Ha, you knew that AW had my name all over it the second you spotted her. ;o) .. They look good together and I'm glad she had time to spend with her 'lil' nephew but you better bring it back.  You ARE bringing it back right? ;o)  I'm keeping your barrel wrench hostage.. as much as you shoot you'll have that AE barrel shot out in a couple more days and will be needing it something bad ;o)   Just kidding bro, no rush on my end. 

You da research man Gordon ;o) ... I've seen a few of the $4-$10K range lasers and they seem great for etching dog tags, knives, etc.... and do a fantastic job .. it's the depth I think you need to really check in on... Now I don't read and research 1/50th of what you do but I've had several engravers and manufactureres tell me it takes a good $30k-$40k laser to do a deep etch.  These were not laser salespeople so I didn't see any immediate need to doubt them.. My factory post sample HK 416 is so shallow I've held off refinishing it to FDE b/c I know I'm going to lose the markings.  Spikes use to make my lowers for me several years ago and the laser engraving they did was some of the best I've seen but again a good bead blast and it's gone or dang near so faint I'd think cerakote would bleed over it.  It worked for me as my receivers were black and the white laser etching looked great.   I'm am not remotely a laser expert but have read and seen several pushed in this direction.  For me it just wasn't finanically prudent for me to spend that kind of money .. Heck I already have a $40k machine that does more engraving than anything else but that's my own fault ;o)    I'm sure someone on here has a desktop laser and can probably speak to it's capabilities. Different materials of course will be a big factor but the wattage has to be high enough hense the cost.  Most of the CO2 lasers will barely etch the anodizing and from what I've seen it's not a matter of simply going over it 100 times... they reach a depth and that's it.  But again, everyone's individual due dillegence is recommended.

Sorry that should have said NOT flamable .. didn't proof it well enough ;o) sorry for the scare... I smoke cigars like a fish breathes water so I know they're not flamable nor does the occasional ash hurt the solition when I'm leaning over looking ;o)   Sorry you're good as long as you're not sitting over it breathing it in for any period of time

Yep the maganese will be a little darker..When I do one, I'll parkerize all the metal parts even if I plan to cerakote.  Takes a little longer but makes me feel better the protection is there in case it's knicked or scraped.  Plus I haven't found a better undercoat for cerakoting than the park .. both solutions crystalize to an extent and provide excellent adhesion properties for any top coat.   Fumes are flammable but seeing what they do to the metal that's not in the tank I wanted to really point across the need to ventilate well.  I have a big squirel fan I'll fire up and blow too.   Just caught your avatar, you're use to dealing with metal and burners and such so you're probably a lot closer to doing this than I'd originally though.   It's not bad, blueing is much much worse but safety as you know is paramount.   The Lauer solution from Midway is the cheapest and does ok but I feel the Brownell's version does better IMHO.     Post pics when you're ready and best of luck

I use silicon plugs when I do all my refinishing - parkerizing or cerakoting.  Which solution are you going to use?  The Zinc is more crystalize but the Maganese you shouldn't have to worry with much. Would be best if you could plug but unless you have very tight tolerences you should be ok... I don't recall every having any reassembly problems on the ones I've done.    Not trying to talk you out of it and by any means if you're set for it, doooooo it ;o) .... I am trying to help and don't mean to assume what you know or don't know but I can offer my knowledge and you can take what you need from it.... if you don't have the stuff now setting things up for one job can get costly in itself. The solution has to be heated to a specific range, then pre-treated (before firstime use - I use a steel wool pad). I guess one could do this with an old pot and stove and thermometer at minumum.  Just be careful, the solution puts off fumes when it's heated, very caustic... I have to wipe my equipment down when I do it in my shop as 5-10 feet away my lathes, chucks and other metal parts will rust just from fumes... I rememeber when I started years ago my wife and I were fighting and the day after I'd done a few receivers, I walked into my shop and would have sworn she sprayed my equipment with the water hose ;o) ....   Above all, I would highly recommend NOT doing this inside a house or anything.   I made my 1st tanks with heating elements from a water heater.. it takes 20-30 minutes to reach operating temperature but beats a $1000 gas heater and the mess that goes along with that.   But the process is very simple to accomplish and can be rewarding.

Bud, I appreciate that as I'm sure all of us TN vendors do.    I use a sping loaded engraving tool on my big HAAS Verticle Milling Machine (VMC).  Not sure what Orion is using now.  I believe back in the day they had an old school pantograph style engraver (hand).  Some use a laser engraver which does the absolute best on sharpnest but unless you have one of the higher end machines, the lasers don't go hardly to any depth,    I will never put myself in the same class as Ryan at Orion though.. he's an engraver by trade and the guy does an awesome job and I know he's been doing things for many years as he did a few SBRs for me well over 15 years ago.    I can engrave about anywhere we can. Flat surfaces are prefered and do the best (side or front of magwell, fire control area, trigger guard, etc.). The spring loaded tool will accommodate for non-flat surfaces (to an extent) but I do not do 4 axis engraving which is more consistent across a significant arc such as a barrel.  If you can imagine cutting an uneven surface with a horizontal tool path, your high spots are going to normally be deeper than the low...   Note I do not engrave very deep.  NFA requirements are .003 which is about the thickness of a sheet of copy paper.  I set my machine to run around .03-04, plenty deep enough but I don't normally engrave as deep as factory does. For starters, many manufacturers use stamping machines rather than engraving.  I've found the .03 mark is a sweet spot with the bits I use before they start hitting the wider part of the cutter and the thickness of the letters start to grow.   But I'd say I easily do 5-7/month consistently and have so for several years. I feel very fortunate I have never had anyone disappointed or at least that has gotten back to me.  Those that know me know your satisfaction is my utmost goal and I'll do what I can to make things right for ya.   If you want PM me your trust name and type of receiver you have and I can give ya some recommendations/confirmations.   Thx!   Dolomite, thanks for the kind words.  I got my care package you sent. Got a chuckle at my wife wonder what exactly it was you'd sent ;o) Much appreciated my friend!

Bet hers will go much deeper than the .003 requirement ;o)  One could be so lucky

Yep It never dies Bud :o) Yes you can engrave anything you want on your receiver now such as long as you don't destroy the current required markings. I engrave a lot of receivers. Many before the stamp comes back, some wait but it's up to you. Many like having it done and ready so as soon as they get approval they're ready to slap their parts on.

You filed a form 1 to "make" a title 2 firearm.. you then become the maker.. in your eyes you're just assembling the thing but the receiver is actually making a beautiful tranformation ... kinda like when a caterpillar turns into a butterfly ;o)   You can choose to use any engraving that's already there and we often do .. serial, make, model, caliber,etc.. but you could in turn create a whole new serial # as well.   You'll find a lot in this arena doesn't make much sense.  Come in and drink the kool-aid though\   And coming from a 07/02 who's been dabbling in NFA for almost 30 years now, you ARE required to engrave your information.  There are even ATF agents that will tell you differently but as a manuf in the industry that IS the requirements.  Now I've never seen anyone get in trouble for omitting this solely, it has been applied several times as tack on charges... if they're after you they're going to look at anything they can .. but yeah I've had the folks come in and argue until they're blue in the face it's not necessary because they read it on this board or that board.

TBI won't check the caliber against priors when/if you later register it (it won't kick back if dealer A had it as 9mm and dealer B has it as 10mm, etc.)  Is the problem you do not know what the caliber is or that you know it's just not on the gun?  Back years ago serial # was the only thing required to be on the receiver .. calibers and models were often on barrels and you hit the nail on the head, people rebarrel and poof .. gone.. But I'm pretty sure TBI just checks serial against the NICS for lost/stolen, etc..    I'd list the caliber is was when you received it if there is no other markings and it's known

    Yep that's it   Hahn makes both a bottom loading (probably what you want) and a top loading mag block.  The top loader is considered more a permament setup b/c while they both work the AR's BHO catch, the top loader requires you to install the catch AFTER the block has been inserted.  The top loader is considered more dependable since it can't fall out under any circumstance outside a castrophe.   I have used both and never had an issue with a bottom loader.. given you're probably going to want to remove the block and then shoot your 5.56 back and forth, it's probably a better option. It secures with set tension screws from the inside.. nothing permament with either block though.   The BHO option works on both Hanhs as long as you have a Colt style mag.  The Uzi mags reguire milling a mag catch slot but will work fine but as Dolomite discussed, they will NOT operate the BHO mechanism b/c of their follower shape/size.   I have both 25rnd and 32rd Uzi mags.  Every now and then you can catch them for $9-$10 surplus ... the Colt mags are high and certain years demand a premium ... not sure the significance...  Cproduct mags work well too as others have suggested and are the colt pattern.   Your factory bolt catch will work with the Hahns.   This VM Hytech uses factory Uzi mags but adds a secondary mag release at the bottom.  Good in the mags don't have to be modified but there is no BHO and the secondary mag release give some the weebeegeebees.. .me, I only shoot my 9 when I'm out having fun so I've never had a problem getting too trained on the other.  But I do see pros and cons with each setup.   The CMMG Mk9 lower is a completely dedicated 9mm lower that uses colt pattern mags.  There is no block it's machined into the lower and is ONLY a 9mm lower.. I like the dedicated lowers and hadn't seen those quarter 10s .. they look damn good and would be my choice if I was building a dedicated setup.  Beautifully machined no doubt.

JohnnyR, I would just be sure the bolt is a ramped model and I'd also run a set of KNS anti walk pins. 9s use to beat up a lower pretty bad back in the day but that was mostly before ramping. But I use to run a VM setup on my M16A2 transferable I had back in 2004/5. I can mill Uzi mags to work with colt pattern if anyone needs this done. I did this on my last Hahn setup I had.

I'm really liking that new CMMG Mk9 for an out of box 9mm... has a nice keymod rail, dedicated lower...  I've transfered a few over the last 4-6 months and I really like their pistol setup.  So much that reading this thread and pondering this evening you guys just made me click the order button for one myself !! ;o)  I plan to cut the barrel back to 4-4.5", open the rail up a hair and recess a Octane HD inside .. love that HK SD look.   I've built several 9s over the years using all kinds of mag blocks, top loading. bottom loading.. my favorite block is an old VM Hytech from years ago (company went out of business).. many don't like them because of the secondary mag release but I like em b/c you can pick up surplus Uzi mags that don't require modification.  Just old school if you were around when they were popular and back in the day they were the cat's ass unless you wanted to go the hassle of using Colt's 2 piece block.  If you have to use a block, HAHN currently makes the best IMHO .. use to be the bottom loader was the only BHO version but I believe that may have changed in later versions.  I had a HAHN top loader that required the AR bolt release to be removed for it to be used..   My distrubutor only had a few MK9 complete pistols in inventory, the upper alone was out of stock so with that being said, I probaby WON'T be needing/using the complete dedicated pistol lower assembly.. so watch out if you're interested as it may hit the firearm board in a few days....They're very nice dedicated lowers and while I'd much prefer to use it and concur with Dolomite, I have that VM block and a several post sample lowers already I just don't need to pull another title 1 off the books and turn into something that limits my resell down the road... and while I can't bring myself to NOT have it full auto well... since I can ;o) .... I do have a post DIAS I machined that might find it's way inside if I grow tired of the VM.   Only thing I can say about a 9mm that I've found has suprised a few customers when we build, they do run MORE than a 556.. so it's going to be hard to get a $600 9mm that looks good.  You'll easily be up into $8-$1000 in a blink ... barrels usually run a good chunk more, bolt carriers are twice the cost (for the ramped/machined versions) .. mags are higher, buffer,  etc... it just adds up quickly.. seen a few people be disappointed because they expected it to be cheaper.. even if everything was the same you have the extra of the mag blocks (HAHNs run about $200) or dedicated lowers (CMMG dedicated lower alone MSRPs at $380).

The only downside to the 300 IS the cost of shelf ammo... most do reload themselves and/or shoot very little... if you want cheap, 5.56 is better.. I'd even say it's better to reach out farther ... but if you want hunting, suppressor, etc. down the road then 300 hands down... it's next to impossible to get 5.56 subsonic ammo to cycle an AR gasser... 300 on the other hand, piece of cake...  then there's the bullet weight itself.. I'd much rather punch something with a 208 or 220 gr 300 than a 55-75gr 5.56 .. I love the round, cost in my mind is the 300's primary achiles heel.

Thanks guys, just came across this!  I appreciate each of you and always happy to help!

Wilson does indeed make a 18" I've seen and held one ... but I concur with Tricky, Dolomite has a ton of research and knowledge around the round.  173ABN has as well.. he makes all of mine and all I know is they go bang ;o)  I've only had 8.5, 9.5 and now run a 10.5 with an adjustable GB.  I've had these as well as 13.7s and several 16"s come through .. nothing longer in my experience than the 18 but sure custom can be whatever you want.  All I've seen have been pistol length gas ports... I highly expect though after x inches you're not getting much anything out of the length but aesthetics.  Like me, I'd prefer the 18" if I had to go title 1 but I can also do SBRs a lot easier than most of you folks... like I may just make one this afternoon for sh*ts and giggles ;o)