scoutfsu

They have a new tan follower.....that closely resembles Magpul's. It staggers the rounds opposite a typical follower.

TACOM is repeating a 5 year old ALARACT. They are bureaucrats first and foremost; a hindrance to the war fighter. A good portion of that command needs to be culled. This info is all over most forums with MagPul putting out some good information regarding the DEET and cold weather tests. Remember, TACOM is the same people telling you spray paint and stocks will cause a weapon to deadline. They are the same people who only authorize CLP for weapon maintenance. They are a joke. The PMag is an awesome magazine. A good GI mag is an awesome magazine. Don't fall in love with your mags. When they start to cause malfunctions, trash them. Magazines are disposable items. They will all break eventually. At least with PMags, I don't have to guess...... I know there is a feed lip gauge. I've never seen one in any Army unit I've been in. Has anyone? Most commands will do what they usually do when TACOM pushes stupid #### - ignore them. PMags have been issued by units for years now. Not really. Their people are throwing fits about them due to the adoption of the M27 IAR. Some are attempting work arounds with the EMag and I'm curious how the new M3 mag works out for them.

what kind of muzzle device? If its an SF, give them a call. They'll send you some for free.

Yea, +1 on this

meh. maybe it'll give them something to do rather than write window tint citations

The 511/551 models use the N size battery. EOTechs in general are notorious for killing batteries but that type was probably the worst offender. The 512/552's were a close second. Keep a good watch on your battery compartment. The contacts have a tendency to fall out. Your best bet on batteries is to use the lithium type. They're more expensive but they'll last longer and don't have as many problems as cheap batteries.

I was tasked to give a class on the 68 to a bunch of people who have never used/most likely never seen one....here's something relevant I found in the TM. - THEORY OF OPERATION The M68 sight is a reflex (non-telescopic) sight. It uses a red aiming reference (collimated dot) and is designed for the “two eyes open†method of sighting. The dot follows the horizontal and vertical movement of the gunner’s eye while remaining fixed on the target. No centering is required Outside of 50m, there should be no parallax. Inside of that, you should be able to hit what you're aiming at regardless.....or you deserve the consequences. This manual is for the AP but there should be no difference with the EOTech either. One a quality optic is zeroed, it's zeroed.

I have used RDS's at spitting distances of people and it didn't matter one iota. Whatever small amount of parallax exists isn't going to make a difference up close, which is the intent and usefulness of a RDS. Reflex shooting made easy. I'll be going to the range tomorrow or monday so I'll give your test a little try. I have no idea about clone optics. My experience has been with AP's and EO's and the piggybacked Doctors/JPoints.

A quality RDS's battery will last quite a while. AimPoints can last up to 80,000 hours. Even a tenth of that would be good for me. Once a RDS is zeroed, it doesn't matter where it is in relation to the barrel - especially for close in shots. Anyone remember EOTech used to have that picture of a broken lens with the reticle in the top right? The Army quals everyday with RDS out to 300m. With practice, you can reach out further. It's already been said a couple times but the mission drives the gear. Closer in shots? - RDS. Longer range? - rifle scope.

Verrrrry nice. Suppressor to go with the SF brake? I was just talking to your rifle and it said you don't appreciate it anymore. It wants to come home with me... Side note - wasn't NYC banned?

You don't really believe that do you? Or did I miss the sarcasm?

I was recently able to get 156 very lightly used GI mags for a song and dance. They are disposable items, just like a razor....

Do you have an unregistered RDIAS laying around? A lower that has been drilled/machined for a sear? (also, you're referring to the carrier, not bolt) It's not hard to make a lower capable of accepting things......it is (provided you're not an 02/07) illegal. Strictly having extra parts in your possession is not illegal. It's not the trigger that makes an AR capable of F/A&Burst. I'm sure many people unknowingly have the materials in our households to make bombs but we're not doing anything illegal, correct? I may not be doing a good job of explaining myself with this rambling......

Negative. That's just what over cautious people have been waxing poetic about for a while now. And then there's the argument b/w constructive intent and constructive possession, etc. No more constructive than having an "auto" BCG or multiple sub 16" uppers for one NFA'ed lower and having other Title 1 rifles around.

Much like ammo, you can never have enough magazines. Ultimately they are disposable items. Don't rely on three or less for too long

WA started forcing FFLs to collect the tax on interstate guns.

I'm all set on powder (but would buy a few pounds if it helped - primarily looking for H335/WC844/842 or some type of pistol powder for 9mm/.40) but I can always use more bullets...... 115/124 gr 9mm 165 .40 55gr .223

Ok, well you can never read too many manuals. AR15.com also has a good reloading section with people that are actually helpful and knowledgeable. There is little to no silly internet games in that subforum. Really, I'm an amateur at this . I'm sure people that have been doing it for decades can help you better.

Going by Ramshot's information, I wouldn't mess too much more with seating. 4.6/7 looks to be the minimum powder. I would increase to 4.9 and go to their recommended COL. Have you looked at any other manuals?

BigK, why do that when you can just check the reloading manuals? Doing it his way, he looks to be about .045-.05 off on the OAL. I would think taking a median measurement from a box wouldn't be the best way to go about it, especially considering different bullet types.

4.7 is the minimum charge for that. Also, 1.145 looks to be slightly long. When you said you measured factory Federal 9mm......did you just measure a random factory round?

Group buys are your friends!

The problems typically come with people using cheap parts. The problems with cheap(er) parts far exceed those with good parts.

As this is your first AR, you don't know what you don't know. A) Buy a complete lower and upper and slap them together - avoid the FET, you can also find screaming deals on quality parts once you know what you're doing. Buy a complete rifle With both choices you should be able to get a reliable rifle with minimal fuss. You don't want to have to get into the platform and deal with problem after problem. The forums are full of novices making minor and major errors. Save that kind of stuff for a 2nd/3rd rifle after you get more experience. Do your research on manufacturers. You may pay a little more initially for a quality manufacturer but it will pay dividends in the long run. The list is slightly subjective and not complete but Colt, BCM, LMT, Ranier Arms, Daniel Defense, Noveske, KAC, and more. Spikes Tactical makes pretty decent stuff but they can eatadick after the stunt they pulled 4yrs ago. RRA makes pretty decent stuff but there's things you need to be aware of with their specs before you buy them. Milspec is the minimum and good makers can/will exceed it......bad manufacturers can't/won't and then disguise it. Pay attention to reputations....there's almost always a reason for them.

Wolf and Tula are underpowered rounds. How would going to a heavier buffer cause the weapon to cycle more reliably? Heavier buffers are to slow bolt speed on SBRs, hot ammo, and an overported gun. What am i missing here.