MrBrian

Was randomly browsing gunbroker, and ran across this and bought it on a whim.... It should be in next week! Swedish Ljungman AG42 in 6.5x55 WIll post range report when I get the chance, I've heard good things

According to ammoseek.com  the cheapest you can find 7.62x54r ammo online is 31.8 cents per shot, not including tax or shipping...   I haven't bought any surplus in a while, I've been buying PPU so I can start handloading for the mosin in hopes of getting a sub moa target load

The clear tube with a red cap on it in the first aid kit, what is that?  And what's the long bluish green thing next to it?

1911 and Hi-power had a baby!

Thanks!

Are you casting for the 6.5x55?   I'm thinking about it but didn't know what mold and what lead mixture/hardness to use

ALL OF THEM!   But really, 45 acp, 357 magnum, for both revolver and lever action rifle, 7.62x54r, 308, and possible 303 british in the future...

Does anyone have a handy chart that lists the pressure or velocity ranges for each Brinell hardness?   I can find charts that list the Brinell hardness of each metal recipe mixture, but can't find the range or limits for each hardness level....

I knew they were suppose to be 1 to 2 thousands over the size of the barrel bore, but I could never find how safe it was to shoot anything over that...    The barrel I have measures .4525, and the bullets I shot were in the .457 range...   Should I get a .454 sizer or just shoot them as they are?

I think I figured it out....   I ended up having to seat the bullet just a tad further down because I think it was right on the edge of the top lube groove before. Now that it's seated a little further down, when the bell of the case is taken out with the taper crimp, it actually has a little bit of lead to crimp to instead of the lube groove...   so now it's secured the bullet.   They still fall within it minimum OAL and I just successfully shot a magazine of them with no issues at all

Ok, so I used some of the bullets that I hadn't sized down yet, that measure .456 right out of the mold.       I got the seating die to not crimp by backing out the die and lowering the seating portion......     But now I can't get enough crimp with the taper crimp die....    The shell holder is touching the bottom of the crimp die when the arm is all the way down, and it's sufficiently hard to pull the handle down on the round, but I can still spin the bullet and it comes out of the case....   I understand it shouldn't actually crimp into the bullet, but it shouldn't come back out of the case that easy either....  The flair of the case doesn't seem to be an issue

I cast some 45 acp bullets with wheel weight alloy in this mold http://www.midwayusa.com/product/313971/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-452-228-1r-45-acp-45-auto-rim-45-colt-long-colt-452-diameter-228-grain-1-ogive-radius   Pan lubed them and ran them thru this Lee sizer http://www.midwayusa.com/product/444306/lee-bullet-lube-and-size-kit-451-diameter   Used these RCBS dies http://www.midwayusa.com/product/247879/rcbs-carbide-3-die-set-with-taper-crimp-45-acp-45-gap   The resizing/depriming die worked, and slightly belled the rim of the case....   When I went to seat the bullets, the bullet seating die seems to be crimping them as they were being seated, and then shaving off some of the lead....  and when I let the round back down out of the die, it pulled the bullet back out of the case.....   Here's a short video where you can see the bullet is being pulled back out, but I can push the bullet back down to where it was suppose to be....   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBqlIyu7iC4   Then, when I went to use the tapered crimp die, it's not putting enough of a crimp on them to keep the bullet from moving...   I can actually pull the bullet completely back out of the brass without any retention. So, did I size them too small with the .451 sizer?   Or am I using the wrong kind of dies?   Are there special dies for reloading cast bullets?   Why is the seating die crimping the brass when that's the job of the taper crimp die?   And why can't I get enough crimp with the taper crimp to hold in the bullet?      

These are the cartridges that Hogdon's website has reloading data for with IMR 4166, in various bullet weights:   204 Ruger 223 Remington 22-250 Remington 243 Winchester 6mm Remington 250-3000 Savage 257 Roberts 25-06 Remington 6.5 Creedmoor 260 Remington 270 Winchester 270 Winchester Short Magnum 7mm-08 Remington 30-30 Winchester 7.62x54r 308 Marlin Express 308 Winchester 30-06 300 Winchester Short Magnum 300 Winchester Magnum 303 British 8x57 Mauser 338 Federal 348 Winchester 9.3x74r 375 Ruger 405 Winchester 416 Remington Magnum 45-70 (Trapdoor) 45-70 (Lever action)   http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle

Yeah, my RCBS uniflow doesn't like extruded powders, so I do the same method... Perhaps one day I'll get a fancy electronic powder measurer, but for now, slow and steady wins the race

I just picked up a pound of 4166  to try.....   Are all the IMR 4*** powders extruded?  

Yes, very similar to that picture. I was just making sure it wasn't a more serious problem

308 Winchester, 30-06, 45-70, 7.62x54r.....   and eventually 303 British, 6.8 SPC, 6.5x55

What case trimmers do you all have, and what do you like and dislike about what you have?    The Frankford Arsenal Case Trimmer & Prep center looks promising, but it will only work on rifle rounds with a shoulder.....    I've also thought about the Lyman Trimmer with carbide cutter, and maybe the RCBS prep center.....    I don't know

But if the case is split and it won't chamber.......

I thought the same thing, I'm using carbide dies, so I wasn't using case lube, but I'll give it a try to see if it cuts down on the shavings....   it's nothing excessive, just a few tiny specks about the size of a granule of ball powder, but I guess it could be a problem if you load hundred of rounds without dusting off the shell plate

When loading on my Dillon 550B, after I seated and crimped the round, I discovered the case had split, so I used a bullet puller to get the bullet and powder out, but what about the live primer?   Is it safe to run a live primer thru a decapping die?   If so, is that primer still reusable?   And if not, how do you properly dispose of a live primer.    In our county, our trash center uses compactors, and in my mind that's just asking for the primer to discharge and possibly causing a small fire, or some other issues....    So what are your thoughts?

Yeah, I'm doing the same things, not breaking any speed records, but making good ammo. For now I'm just gently blowing the shavings off to keep them from messing up anything

Just setup my Dillon 550B for 9mm tonight, and after loading several rounds, I notices some very tiny brass shavings on the shellplate and I couldn't tell where they were coming from....  does this mean my resizing die is set too deep?  Or is it normal?   The resizing die seems to give the most resistance when pulling the handle down, so that's why I suspected it, and I'm using a random array of once fired cleaned brass if that helps

When I bought my first Mosin about 5 years ago, I said to myself, this is easily a $300 gun....    I'm glad I got another one about a month ago for $180.....     Who knows what they'll be priced at in 5-10 years!

I recently bought a decent set of analog dial calipers to replace my digital ones because I was tired of constantly replacing the batteries....  just a suggestion, so if you already have analog ones, just stick with them