alwaysonjohn

I hate to revive my old DEAD thread, but since this post is easily found on google and I'm getting messages about it, here is a video teaching you how to reset/change/use your patriot safe company (aka Merlo Company) safe.  BTW, they have gone out of business so don't expect any customer service if you get one second hand.  Also, as stated elsewhere, the fire proof ratings are questionable since they walls seem to be filled with concrete, however they still make a nice safe (IF THE PRICE IS RIGHT) that will prevent the average burglar due to its weight/construction (as long as the keypad doesn't fail, but mine hasn't had issues).   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO7QaujYWng

I loved mine especially with the pinky extension mag grip.  The safety is always nice especially if you don't want to put it in a holster inside your bag/purse (most females just throw it in the diaper bag), but it has little weight and is extremely easy to shoot, not to mention it feels good in your hands and is reliable.

as soon as he said bore guide I realized he was talking about a precision gun.  Yeah, those are a different story than a pistol or everyday rifle.  I personally use boresnakes just to clean my gun on the way home from the range just in case I need a semi-clean gun or to start the cleaning process at the house.  For shotguns though it's all I use.  For my precision Defiance Machine build with my custom 4-button lilja barrel, I wouldn't use one either.

here are the pics Original is on the left. As you can see I didn't want a Rakkasan deployment gun. My brother is 4th bgd and besides that its from an artillery division... no offense. I wanted something more leo so i shipped it off to someone in west memphis who won't be named... This is the nintendo disaster that returned in my mail after almost a year. It was supposed to be a dark blue/black cerakote that ended up being this durakote nightmare. Pretty much the guy painting it should have known that four coats on a "match gun" is a bad thing. I will admit i was ignorant on the subject at the time too. He shipped me back a gun that couldn't even get in battery and getting the duracoat off was imposible even with over $50 in solvents and scrubbing and soaking. I almost threw it away till i spoke to Chris and Brandon at midtngunsmithing... Final Is the top gun. It is beautiful.... everyone asks me how much did it cost... the mainspring housing design puts it all together but you can't really see it. The barrel was polished. It's now 100% reliable. It has a good weight for a .45, plus one day i'll get a suppressor to match. Thanks again Chris and Brandon at MidTNGunsmithing! And to think, I almost threw this beauty in the trash! It's now a gun i would never sell.

My P14 was finicky.  The guys at MidTnGunsmithing helped me out fixing it though (not to mention i shipped off to an idiot in West Arkansas to durakote that was a disaster so they had to sandblast the disaster off).  The two of them helped replace out almost every single part in the gun using ed brown internals.  The mags were eventually replaced with mec gar mags because of loading issues (the base plate had to be sanded a little so it would seat), the barrel was replaced with a storm lake threaded barrel (polishing the ramp didn't fix it alone, but i'm sure the new mags might have helped too), the guide rod was replaced with a SprinCo Recoil Managment spring/rod system (had to be fitted), the trigger replaced with an EGW trigger (made for the P14 and had to still be fitted), the main spring housing replaced with an Ed Brown chain link Main spring housing (had to be fitted), hogue grips, etc.  I'll post pictures to show you, but it ended up being one my favorite guns and 100% reliable.  14 rounds of 45 is a beautiful thing.   If I had to do it over again, I would probably sandblast the crap out of it, have someone cerakote in a single color I like (or two tone), and polish the internals. 

to get it off you need to use a gun cleaner product such as Slip 725 Gun Cleaner/Degreaser.  After spraying it you need to scrub a little with your brushes then wipe, wait for it to completely dry and wipe again.  Don't forget to lube it up after using 725.  If I want lube only I use Machine gunners lube or EWL.  I use Slip 2000 EWL for basic cleaning/lubing as well because of Bravo Company and Pat Roger's marketing campaign.

that's a decent kit and great price.  I carry a smaller kit in case I get hurt or one of my co-workers.  I spent more in order to get something more complete and also in a smaller package.  I have the tallboy from It's tactical.  Luckily I haven't had to use it yet, but its there strapped on my lower back on my plate carrier vest.

My "tactical" vest is for hard plates since i wear soft armor underneath.  I have the diamondback FAPC2 XL in conjunction with medium hard plates.  For reloading I use a Kangaroo Pouch in the front with 3 Mags, along with a medkit molle'd to the lower back and velcro sign on upper back.  I like it and you can even get it with soft armor if you want.  It's expensive though, but call and ask for discounts.  The material on the inside is made to breath a little easier and the strap system is nice when you can wear it for hours on end.

back when i used to fish i would drive to various spots on LBL.  I would start off at Gatlin's point and move around when it got crowded towards secret spots near ginger bay (if its open again).  I'm a bass fishermen and from the bank i would use either crank baits or artificial salty worms. http://www.lbl.org/pdf/09_LBL_Recreation_Map_South.pdf   Also don't forget about the big fishing pond at the marina. its open dawn till dusk and is one of the nicest fishing areas in clarksville especially for children.  you can also try dunbar cave lake, but i haven't caught anything but turtles there.   for children only there is a fishing pond if you take Lafayette straight until you go past the 4 way stop (or is it a light now) and as you cross the bridge the fishing stream will be on the left. plus the kids can feed the ducks.  don't ask me what license (if any) your kids need to fish there since it's technically owned by fort campbell (but you don't technically go on base)...

    Defiance Machine Rebel Action (based of the 700) (1100) Defiance Machine 20 MOA Rail (Included w/ action) Lilja 1:10 Twist barrel with 4 button rifling cut down to around 24" $330 Manners T5A with Mini-Chasis, picatanny rail, and limbsaver $1141 Straight Flutes from Twisted Barrels $275 JP Tactical Compensator $100 Atlas Bi-Pod $280 Seekins Precision Rings $130 jewell trigger $225 multi-cam cerakote on stock with two-tone cerakote on action/barrel/bolt $330   So that's 3911 if i can add correctly plus you need someone to put it together, chamber the action, and bed it which cost around $700 if i remember correctly.  I used Middle TN Gunsmithing.   With future builds though, people are saving money with these cool looking stocks that don't have to be bedded (and they are still just as accurate) such as the AICS or TAC 21 etc.  Also, not fluting/threading a barrel will save a little cash, and the paint job would save money too, not mentioning i got a crazy thick barrel so in the future i will be getting something lighter.  I was initially going to polish it for a black and chrome look with skulls (aka the grim reaper), but i decided i needed a tactical rifle first and the chrome would be too much work to clean after each trip to the gun range.

I have gone with cerakote lately.  The last durakote job that someone did for me ended up being a thick disaster.  Cerakote seems to be harder and thinner and durakote seems to have more flex but it is thicker.  Durakote is cheaper though and on a shotgun both would work well but the thicker durakote might last longer.  Maybe GunRunner32 will chime in since he has cerakoted my last three guns (an ar, precision rifle, and handgun).

Worst thread title ever...It just made me want to   :puke: But back on topic: As far as my opinion on the rifle I am stumped.  I have always chosen a Remington over the savages and when i decided to spend even more I had MidTN Gunsmithing build me a custom rifle which would be way over your budget (my stock with bottom metal was over that budget).  My advice is to get the 700 AAC-SD.  It's threaded and its a perfect weight/length.  you can always upgrade it down the line with a cooler more tactical stock or trigger or whatever fancies you as mentioned by another person in this thread http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/64526-remi-700-aac-sd-build/   BTW the Remington 700 AAC-SD can be had for right at your budget and even less if you shop wisely.  Good luck!

LEO pricing on the sig 716 is around $1700, but i think they are going for around $2000 everywhere else if they are in stock and up to $2300.

Just some thoughts.... Look at getting an atlas bipod For the comp also look at the JP Tactical Compensator. It makes my 308 feel like a .22. I believe you would need JPTRE-324. http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.3_tre.php Get a new trigger. I love my Jewell. For the glass it depends on how much you want to spend... Low end BSA Tactical, middle vortex, high Nighthawk. rings i recommend seekins precision but you need to know what tube your scope is (most people get scopes with 30mm tubes) Don't get the 20MOA rail unless you don't have any rail now or you plan on some long range shooting otherwise it's an unnecessary cost. You can check out my build that Middle TN Gunsmithing built and painted for me at http://s1261.photobucket.com/user/alwaysonjohn/slideshow/Rebel Its a Defiance Machine Rebel Action (based of the 700), Defiance Machine 20 MOA Rail, Lilja 1:10 Twist barrel cut down to around 24" and fluted, JP Tactical Compensator, Manners T5A with Mini Chasis, Atlas Bi-Pod, Seekins Precision Rings, Vortex Scope (loaner for the pictures), jewell trigger, multi-cam cerakote with two-tone cerakote [URL=http://s1261.photobucket.com/user/alwaysonjohn/slideshow/Rebel][/URL]

Try to get a drop-in kit to make it easier to install (although its not too complicated, but can get annoying as you try to find a weight you like). For any rifle I prefer a Single Stage trigger with  2-4 lbs of pull. Jewell has not made a single stage kit yet, otherwise i'd have it.  But the current ones I'd recommend are Timney, CMC, and Geissele. With all of that said, your money would probably be better spent to bring the lower to a gunsmith such as Chris @ MidTNGunsmithing and let him replace some springs and work on it though as new triggers can get pricey.