Warbird

The first posts hit it. I agree that everyone has a different opinion. Buy a quality belt, plenty of threads on that and buy a quality holster and try it on for size. Get at least one OWB and one IWB and see how they work. Most of us have bought good ones that for one reason or other we just don't like. I have been a leather guy through and through for years, but recently I have come to like several Kydex or kydex/leather holsters. I prefer an OWB that rides high and is canted and sits close to the body. There are finally a couple of good choices for that now. I have found nothing is faster on the draw than a good kydex holster. Just get a good one. IWB I have been a Milt Sparks fan for yrs, but in the last year have come to really like the Crossbreed and MTAC. You will pretty much be best served buying from the internet or finding a shop that sells a lot of holsters. I don't know what area of the state you live in, but here in middle Tennessee, Outpost and Hero Gear both have a very large selection. Though I haven't used one Guns and Leather has a guy that makes holsters.

If it a long gun then yes that is a very good idea. Any hard case would be decent for a pistol packed into a bag. Keep it as small as possible. The biggest problem with the storm and pelican as well as Starlight cases is that the small cases are still quite large. There is no way to easily secure a case by cable or any other device that I have found which would be sufficient to keep a gun case from being stolen out of a travel suitcase. The cable might be sufficient, but the the weak link would always be what you attach it to would be insufficient. Now that said there are several cases made which are big enough to pack long guns or pistols as well as clothing. I have used them on hunts and they are great, but they really don't work well if you are carrying business clothing that need to stay neat. After averaging several hundred thousand air miles a year for 10 years and though less now still traveling by air often I have come to the simple conclusion that it is always a gamble and there is no fool proof way to protect your weapons. Believe me. I will say this, I know more people who have had issues with their long guns being damaged than I do who have had a pistol damaged or stolen. Just make sure you insure your firearms and would recommend not carrying a gun which it would make you absolutely sick to lose.

I assume you are talking about a sidearm. If so there is really nothing you can put a firearm in that makes it extremely safe. They are all small enough to be walked off by someone determined to walk off with it. It doesn't need to be uber durable, but should be fairly light and lockable. Any heavy plastic case will do that doesn't have a lot of sharp edges that will get caught on clothing in you bag. Make sure it can be locked. Preferably something that you can attach a lock to, not something that has a built in lock. Those things are junk.

This much is very true. A lot of gun shops go under every year because the owners sat back and waited for everyone to come to them. Or they provided poor service and never expanded their network or they simply did not allow their market to dictate what they should offer and they decided to offer whatever they were determined to offer come he!! or high water. There are many many companies that provide many many products to the firearms industry and do very well. Some of these companies you have never heard of, and some are bantered about on boards every day like this one, that didn't exist a few short years ago.

If you buy a gun or ammo from an individual you don't pay tax. The tax is on the goods purchased, the sales tax. Not on the property specifically. If they do that then there might be a case to be made.

The P30 is larger, heavier and in 9mm a lighter recoil cartridge than the G27. I have a 19, 23 and have shot a lot of P30. The recoil of the H&K ad Glock is about the same. All things being equal the Glock has less muzzle rise because of the much lower bore axis. I don't care much for the XD and it would be my last choice. The ergos are nice but the trigger isn't very good and the bore axis is much higher. The P30 would probably allow for faster follow up shots than the 27, but so would a 19 or 23 or the 26. What you sacrifice is weight, longer and heavier gun and longer grip, ie less concealable. The P30 also has a very aggressive grip and for many people it rubs their side raw in a holster if the grip is exposed to the skin.

Are these 7 or 8 round mags? Is the mag that came with it different than the others in round count? If they are 8 round mags have you tried loading just seven rounds in them and then seeing if they do this? I think at this point you should run the gun wet and stick to hard ball ammo and break it in good. I would certainly stay away from the ammo it doesn't like. You can always try again with that ammo once the gun has several hundred rounds through it.

What I wouldn't do is take a dremel tool to anything unless you know exactly what you are doing.

500 is a lot of members. I would be interested in how many members some of the more established indoor ranges have like G&L, On Target, Useltons, CCA have. JWP runs a gun range, so I guess he knows something about it. You might think a basic building might be low overhead, but in reality it is enormously expensive to build and maintain. There are many environmental issues to be worked out. There are disposal issues. There are safety issues. There are air and exhaust issues. A clearing house like you talk about would entail very expensive steel fabrication on numerous walls in a structure. Each of these walls is enormously expensive on a standard indoor range. Most especially if you allow carbines to be used. And people will shoot everything. They will shoot at the ceiling. They will at non-shooting walls. You'd be amazed where they manage to shoot even in a basic range. In any environment where you have people moving about and shooting you have a multitude of additional safety concerns and liability issues. The insurance on a business like that would be very high. Bottom line, it isn't cheap, nor is it low overhead. That is probably why it hasn't been done and there are truly very few places where they do exist. Where they do exist the standard to use the facilities is quite expensive and managed by highly trained individuals (read high labor costs), who understand and maintain strict safety standards. They also usually seriously vett their clients and trainees. While I would love to have a facility close that is like the one you talk about, if I was to own a facility like that, I don't know that I would simply allow folks to join and start running around shooting on their own. You would have to find a way to hold serious training and allow well known schools to draw people in to use the facility.

While it usually takes several months to start losing muscle, unless there's an injury, it only takes a few weeks to significantly lose cardiovascular endurance. Fortunately it comes back fairly quickly with regular exercise. I know that I sometimes take a couple of weeks off of cardio exercise because my body so quickly adapts to routines, even ones changed up often. I always lose endurance in that short period of time.

What he and Greg said. Funny analogy Greg. There are many many ways in which you could change that 700 in the future to suit your needs and it will always be worth something.

Thankfully most of those people never carry their firearm. I am always baffled when someone tells me how they got a carry permit but don't carry because it messes with their 'style'. They don't seem to make any effort to try and work around dressing with the way they like. I dress in everything from jeans and t-shirts to khakis to suits and always have a method for carrying a firearm. It does require effort. It means I have full size, compact and sub-compact weapons, for me usually Glocks. I have several different holster choices and several belt choices. But, you can make it work. After the initial investment in the needed accessories you will b set for a long time. The decision to carry brings along with it some changes in the way you dress and hopefully the way you observe the world around you. It is our right, but it is also a responsibility. If you carry, do so properly, responsibly and be proficient with your firearms.

The 700 is one of the best platforms ever built and what I'd stick with.. The 770 is made cheaply and hasn't proven to hold up very well. The bolt and trigger are not very impressive. If you want a good Remington at a really good price get a Remington 798. These are pretty decent rifles and can be had through CDNN for one place. They are Mauser action Remingtons. Another great choice for a well built good value rifle look to Savage.

The bore of a shotgun is easy to clean and does not need anything harsh or powerful. It is much easier to clean out than a rifled bore, such as a rifle or pistol. Nor does it need to be cleaned as often. If you plan to shoot it again soon, I wouldn't worry about cleaning the bore. If you don't plan to shoot it again for a while then swipe it out. The best thing to use is a foaming cleaner like MPro 7. Let it set for 5 minutes or so and the use a bore snake on it down the tube, starting from the chamber end. The most important care should be in regards to the receiver cleaning and the locking area of the barrels. Make sure to clean and wipe off the hinge pins and ejectors and locking mechanism of the barrels. After that apply a thin coat of quality grease such as TWB25 or STOS (the best I have found). Apply it to the locking lugs, front of receiver, the bottom lip of the barrels where they ride against the receiver. This grease is the most important part of care for your O/U. Make sure you take out the choke tubes, if any, after cleaning the barrel and apply gun oil to the threads. Just put a drop of oil on your finger and apply to th threads. It doesn't need to be much, jut enough to keep the chokes from seizing. I can't tell you how many chokes I have seen seized from lack of care to this area. Make sure you wipe down the outside of the receiver and barrels after each use with a preservative. The best I have found is Ballistol G96. Eezox and Barricade also work. I shoot thousands upon thousands of rounds through a Beretta O/U for sporting clays every year. I also use O/U's almost exclusively for hunting. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

I have both and like both very much. I really can't say one is better than the other. They each have a couple of features the other doesn't and it seems to all balance out. I would say if you get the Crossbreed get the combat cut. Some people like the Kholster. I have one and it is OK, but really I don't care for it nearly as much as the other two. There are literally dozens and dozens of good holster choices. I like the two mentioned above and have been a Milt Sparks fan for years, but they are expensive and the wait time is loooooong. TT Gunleather, DM Bullard, lots of great holsters.

The old Sig 226 is as good as the 229 and can be found for less money. The factory refurbed guns are great and have the warranty from Sig. In fact some would say the old German 226 is better than what Sig is putting out right now. I carried a Sig 228 for many years, probably longer than any other gun. They are great shooters as long as you train yourself on the DA/SA config. Personally I found that I had to train harder on that platform to truly be proficient. I also heavily prefer a low bore axis gun. I went from the 228 to the HK P7M8 and eventually to the Glocks. For me the Glocks are more manageable and easier to become proficient than than they seemed holding one. Just because a gun is just super comfortable in the hand in the gun shop doesn't mean it is the easiest to control on the firing line. It honestly took me a while to acclimate to them, but now I shoot them as well as anything else I own. Again they are not the greatest thing in the world to hold, but their low bore axis fits well with their grip angle and I can get a very high hold on the gun. The Beretta 92 is a great gun, I have an Italian made 92. However, it is not at all easy to conceal IMO. S&W M&P is a very good gun and appears to be on the rise in the marketplace and making inroads into Glock's long held hold on the LEA market. Time will tell if they truly hold up as well as the Glock, but indications thus far seem to indicate they will. PX4Storm would likely be a better choice for carry than the 92. You might also consider in your decision other sizes with the same platform as the ones you are leaning toward. With the Glocks a 19 is a compact, the 26 a subcompact and the 17 a full size. With the purchase of any one of them you could eventually purchase another size and still be in the same platform. I am a systems shooter, it is important to me. I carry different sizes of the same platform for different purposes and don't have to change my mind set depending on the day and what I am carrying. Same can be said of the XD, M&P and several other choices. Just something to think about. That said the Sigs, Glocks, etc are never a do it all for everyone everyone (as an example the Sig and Glock grips are too big for me in their standard 45 models). I always recommend shooting if at all possible, not just holding, any gun make before committing to buy. Also make sure you have a really good handle on thee type of grip you are comfortable using, one that is correct, and make sure that gun will work for your style. For instance I had an HK45C. Fantastic piece of equipment. Very rugged and very accurate. However for my grip the slide release would constantly interfere with my high, thumbs forward grip and I would keep the slide lock from holding the slide back on the last round. Now I looked for a couple of ways around it, but most people said just change my grip. BAH! I am not changing my grip from normal to use with one gun. You will always revert under pressure to what you do most. So the gun is no longer in my stable.

The downside to MIM parts is that they are more susceptible to failure than forged parts. They are also more likely to fail if altered at all, such as tuned or polished. At times the manufacturing process will allow for gaps or air pockets to develop in their manufacture. The upside to them is that they are cheaper to make and thus make the gun cheaper. Nearly always an MIM part which is bad will quickly break, under warranty. An MIM part which is good is a pretty good part and there are plenty of guns with 20,000+ rounds run through them and no probs. I prefer a firearm with all forged parts, but you pay for that. In reality many pistols use MIM parts and have for a long time, but we really only seem to debate the issue as relates to 1911's. Forged, stamped and MIM parts all have their pros and cons.

I travel quite a lot to Missouri. I go out of my way to go to MO from TN w/o going into IL. I will not travel their highways I will not be stopping there for gas, food, lodging. I do not accept offers from friends to hunt there. I will not give them a dime of my money. They have a great shooting complex in IL. I am sorry it is in that state.

Correct. One big advantage of the Wilderness style belts, no holes. Cinch it tight and velcro it down. Somebody could put a hook on the back of you and lift you in the air and that belt would stay tight.

You will NOT go wrong with a Wilderness belt. Not pretty, not dressy, but rugged as all get out.

I meant to add that I personally like to carry as large a gun as is comfortable. For me the 22 is too big, but the 19/23 is very comfortable. Now I am basically speaking of IWB here, in OWB a 22 would probably be easy for me as well, but unless you want to buy multiple sizes the 22 for me would be a rarely wear type of thing. I have also carried a commander length 1911 both IWB and OWB in the past. As was already said carry what you feel comfortable with. For some the G22 works very well for their size. In fact I know several people who carry the G34. In the winter this is especially easy. Shoot both the 22 and 19 if that is the type of gun you want. I doubt you will find a lot of difference. But hey you are the one carrying it. Enjoy the journey. Again though my take is to carry the biggest gun you are comfortable with in a variety of circumstances ad clothing options. For some that might be a G26 size. I don't carry smaller than a 26.

To me the Glock 19 is as easy to carry as the 17 and it easier to carry. I do not personally like compensated barrels for carry use in case of low light gunfight. The muzzle blast can really effect night vision IMO. Everyone might not have the same experience. I am fairly light sensitive.

You'll want the instructor belt. I have a 31.5" waist, but wide shoulders and chest. I also have a butt. Gotta build the butt. It's called deadlifts. I have no problems carrying a Glock 19 or Commander length 1911 in Sparks VMII or Crossbreed.

In NC, Florida, Texas and several other states they do have a right to insist on concealment. Though tactically if you are concealed you probably should stay that way. However there is absolutely nothing against the law about it in regards to our Tennessee members, carrying in Tennessee. I do tend to agree with earlier statements that you should try and not print if you are carrying concealed. It does seem to make people less nervous knowing you have a gun than thinking you have agun because it is obviously printing or visible, but you seem to be attempting to hide it. Never the less nothing against the law about it.

Yes I am going to reload Malwarebytes and try it now as well. And Adaware. Lousy scum. These people who do this stuff oughta be hanged by the neck until dead.