quietguy

This is true, but a little misleading. The determining factors are aperture, focal length, and image size (the sensor in digital photograph, the film surface in traditional photography). The greater the magnification in relation to the image size, the flatter the depth of field. Optically, the magnification is more important than the size of the sensor.

As OS stated, this will help with static objects, but not motion blur. The rule of thumb is that for handheld shots, your shutter speed should be greater then your focal length (which in a point-and-shoot camera usually has to be calculated based on your zoom factor) to eliminate image blur. The image stabilization feature of your camera should allow you to exceed this rule by one "stop" (either an aperture, shutter speed, or ISO setting). Action blur, you have to be at a high enough shutter speed to exceed the motion of the subject. This effect is evident in your posted image. See how clear number 15 in black is compared to the other players? Another item you have to take into consideration when analyzing your images is depth of field. When you set the aperture to its lowest setting, only certain objects will be within the focal capabilities of the lens. Notice how ref is out of focus, but has a different blur than the players on the court? This is caused by limited focal depth. The greater the f/stop, the deeper the depth of field.

I wouldn't get too worked up. Those types of environments are hard to shoot regardless of your camera. Try the tips above to see if you can get acceptable results, and I think you will be happier with the outcome. As with most technology, the most important thing is know how to maximize what you have and be aware of its limitations. You could spend $20k on equipment, and if you don't know how to use it the results will be the same.

I like it.

First, turn your flash off in these situations. It is a fart in a whirlwind. Second, make sure you have your Image Stabilization turned on. It will drain batteries faster, but helps. This is pretty sound advice, but you may be able to back the shutter speed down to 1/125th and get acceptable results. Not likely, but it all depends on the speed of the objects. Just doing a quick search, your camera doesn't appear to have a Shutter-Priority mode, so you will have to work from the Manual mode to optimize the image. Set your aperture to the lowest number (should be somewhere between f/2.8 and f/4.9 depending on your zoom setting). I would set my ISO to 1600 and shutter speed to 1/125. Adjust the shutter speed until you get the image quality you are looking for. If the images are too grainy, then you have to drop both the shutter speed and ISO until you get things the way you want them (just show up a bit early and take some random shots at the approximate distance. Also, gym lights can make colors render incorrectly. You can play with your white balance to fix that. You aren't going to get professional results with your camera, but it has enough capability to do much better than your posted image.

The C3s haven't traditionally come with night sights. The new CT models does, but previously only the RCS came with standard NS, IIRC.

I have a Bladetech IWB for mine, and like it a lot. Not my primary carry, but I like the combo.

I had a C3, and it is a fantastic handgun. My only complaint was that mine would only function correctly with Sig mags.

I design networks, and specialize in VoIP systems.

He does, and is rumored to be responsible for several campaigns to mislead THA members into posting.

Randy Rayburn has made sure that many of the better eateries in Nashville are posted.

Watermark, Boundry, Sambuca, Midtown Cafe, Meil, Park Cafe, Cafe Nona, and Margot's are all great options. Plenty of other good places as well, but those stand out.

Take a look at the Stag basic models.

All of the ones I have seen are steel

In '99, but they were still a 3 loss team.

As a lifelong Bama fan, I view the Shula era as the start of the resurgence. The DuBose, Franchione, and Price eras were extremely painful.

Both brands are owned by Beretta.

I understand what you are getting at, but wish you would find another firearm to label your stereotype.

Take a look at the Sig P220 Carry, best of both worlds. Also available in a SAO variant.

I prefer the sights that have a different color rear for this purpose. My favorite setup is the green front and amber rear.

For a firearm purchase, TBI requires your information for a background check, as well as the caliber, type, and serial number of the firearm. I actually had a purchased stopped a couple years ago because the firearm (which the store got as a trade-in) had been reported stolen.

That does look like a good sized spike. Congrats

Actually, your cup is twice as big as it needs to be.

You are correct. I just tend to err on the side of caution. I usually pack my handgun with the slide open in one Nano, and the second Nano with a box of my SD round, empty mags, and knife. The couple of issues that I have run into were with airline personnel, not TSA.

The best solution I have found is two GunVault Nano's. Handgun in one - mags, ammo, and knife in the other.