Dave Shooter

Glockster, sounds like you got a bad CS rep. The service I've had from PACT for my Mark IV timer/chrono and RCBS scale (made by PACT) has been fine. They charged a fair price to fix problems that were my fault, like dropping scale on concrete and breaking the strain gauge. Not a no-BS, fix it free warranty, but they don't claim to have one. My two cents.

Glenn, what time is set up? Thanks

Wanda, you don't need to be able to see to shoot classifiers, especially Can You Count?

Great to see that many folks running pump guns!

Timmy beat me to it while I was (painfully) typing.

68 shooters for a first club match! Come out to a match! Safety is only training you need to participate and it's pretty straightforward. Closet club to Franklin: http://ntps.org/index.htm Next match March 10 or 11.

I will follow up that, yes, there is reliable manufacturers load data and mechanics available on the web. The issue is for a new reloader to sort out the wheat from chaff. I've seen what I consider idiotic advice and dangerous loads posted in various places on web. I'd consider reloading manual to be ground truth for safe data and correct procedures. For a first time reloader I'd recommend taping the data section shut until you've read and understand the "how-to" section.

+1 A 1911 should have plenty of umph to set off any properly seated pistol primer unless it has a really light mainspring. Personally I've found 15 pound mainsprings iffy and 17 and above to be perfectly reliable.

If you do take up reloading you'll also want a good reloading manual that tells you how to and has pressure tested data, not just internet hearsay.

I clean under the shellplate when I change calibers and the primer slide when I change primer size. Other than that not much. I take a toothbrush to the primer cup occasionally during loading as crud can collect there possibly denting the primer as it's seated.

I won Cavalry Arms lower/stock/grip once. I managed to break the seam putting in pins, they replaced it no questions asked. The second one I reamed the pin holes to properly fit and had no other issues with. Put a Bushy upper on it and it functioned fine. Last I heard current owner was satisfied with it. I realize Cav is a differnt manufacturer, just my two cents on building on a plastic lower receiver.

+1 I own one and concur. Fixed barrel, varmint cartridge, and varmint bullet (40 gr Vmax) makes an accurate combo, limitation is the sights and the shooter.

Midway had .310 200 grain Grand Slams on clearance a while back. I loaded some in S&B cases with AA4350, they chrono'd at a usable velocity out of 91/30 but I haven't gotten around to working up to what I think they are capable of. Accuracy was better than light ball although point of impact was noticably different (go figure, 50 grain difference in weight).

+1 to try 'em both! If you can, try several clubs for each also. Different groups may run things a tad different, even under the same rule book. Be safe and have fun!

The Herrett cartridges are most commonly seen in T/C Contender barrels. The .222 was also chambered by T/C as well as a host of different companies' rifles; it's generally considered an accurate cartridge and held numerous benchrest records back before BR and PPC cartridges came on the scene. Gives you an excuse to buy another gun.

I'm partial to a Dillon 550. You can load all pistol and most rifle cartridges on it, and they are easy to change over. It's pretty simple to operate (can be used as a single stage if you want) and all the stations are in plain sight. Oh yeah, and Dillon will fix it if you break anything - no charge.

Several folks do. You are welcome to come over to try it.

I'm not in Knoxville, but have a 1050. Give a shout if the manual doesn't answer your questions.

If I didn't have so much AA2230 on hand I think I'd bite the bullet and buy a jug. Thanks for the write up!

Just got my first 223 Wylde chambered AR. Anyone have any loading tips versus loading for 5.56 chambered ARs? Slightly reduce powder charge? These are supposed to be able to handle 5.56 ammo without problem. 1-8 twist FWIW. Thanks!

Man, and I thought I was hot stuff back in the day doing live fire one, reload, one in two flat....

Mil issued body armor is controlled item and supposed to be turned back in to supply when no longer needed. Not that we don't have a long history of stuff that was supposed to have been turned back in making it's way into the free market.

DS is as usual on top of his game about the tracers. I didn't mean to imply 1-9 is inadequate for 69 gr; I've never seen them not shoot well in 1-9.

Faster twists are needed to stabilize longer (which usually, but not always, means heavier) bullets. 1-12 is more than fast enough to stabilize conventional 55s. The military went to 1-7 to (over)stablize their 62 bullet which is longer than a conventional lead core 62 gr bullet due to the penetrator. I've seen 1-9 be fine for 69 gr. Sometimes even what's not supposed to work works just fine. So.... give it a try!

Redding is a brand of die, like RCBS, Lee, Lyman, Hornday, etc. The U dies (built by Lee soley for EGW) are .001 inches smaller (size the brass to a smaller diameter) and have a taper on the bottom that allows it to size all the way down to the extractor groove. I load .40 brass fired in Glocks all the time and after sizing in U die it will chamber in match 1911 .40 barrels backwards.