Dave Shooter

But half of zero is still zero....

For those that haven't shot with NTPS, you can shoot Saturday or Sunday, morning or afternoon, whatever suits your schedule. Or you could shoot Sat and Sun, morn and afternoon, four times through the same courses of fire.

National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association NMLRA clubs in TN: http://www.nmlra.org/clubs.asp?WhichState=TN Sorry, can't say for certain which ones have pistol matches. The national matches in Friendship, IN have a large number of BP pistol matches. Great fun and among the friendliest, most helpful shooters around. Practice by shooting bullseyes at 25 and 50 yards. Cowboy Action Shooting has a class for cap and ball. Not my thing so can't give much details. Civil war reenactors also shoot revos but I know less about them than CAS.

Brownells has stripped Aero Precision uppers in stock for $72. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=54395/Product/AR-15-M16-A4-STRIPPED-UPPER-RECEIVER?ICID=5066 $6 for ejection port cover, spring and pin. $12 for forward assist assembly. They had a free shipping special going on, but I believe it's over.

Looks like it will be about 20 degrees cooler than last weekend, great for shooting!

Years ago loaded for a pre64 Model 70 220 Swift. No chrono back then so we just used middle of the road book loads; the woodchucks and crows didn't notice a difference. If you firewall your loads brass life will be shorter. If you load sensible and neck size then brass life will be comparable to any other centerfire bottleneck rifle round. Would love to see pics of that 70!

I've used RIG, Rust Inhibiting Grease, with satisfaction. Put it in the bore and on exposed metal; you will need to remove it from bore before shooting. It will not run off like some oils.

Bullseye is tough to beat for standard 38 Spl loads, but any of the faster pistol powders should work. You won't need to lube Hornady bullets. Jacketed doesn't use lube and their soft lead swaged bullets are graphite coated IIRC. Take em out of the box and load them.

Yep, lotsa folks still do. I'm one of the guys who also loads .40 for Limited with small rifle primers, but that's in 1911 pattern with lots of umph hitting the firing pin and a fully supported barrel. I mistakely loaded some harder brand SR in 9mm once and had similar problems to Dolomite's friend; none my stock striker fired guns would set them off. Gave them to a buddy with a SMG where they worked fine.

Squibs tend to be less likely with lead bullets as they have less resistance to being pushed out the barell than a jacketed bullet. You were wise to look for data as close to your components as possible. A jacketed 125 is significantly different than a LSWC 125. Heck, even within lead bullets of same weight, different styles can have differences in powder charge range due to taking up different amounts of case capacity and bearing surfaces. Lyman has I believe the most extensive cast bullet data. Good Luck!

Out of battery was the culprit with my Pro. Was running a reduced power recoil spring and holstering would occasionally knock it a little out of battery. Holding thumb against back of slide when holstering solved the problem. BTW, I had zero problems when running factory spring.

I run almost the exact same load, same bullet, powder and primer, EXCEPT loaded longer. 4.8 gave 1040 fps in a Pro and 5.0 ~1100, both chrono'd. Seating depth has huge effect on pressure and velocity in 9mm. Good luck, load safe!

I picked up some of these recently. http://www.taccom3g.com/STEEL_TARGETS.html Have worked great so far with .22, shotgun and handgun. I confirmed with Tim Ubl, who owns the company, as long as you keep velocity under 1000 fps they hold up well. No high velocity rifle though.

Got a Scout for the oldest about six years ago. Great rifle and not too small for adults. With decent glass this one shoots close to MOA, even at 100 yards.

USMC, I have taken a week-long course out at Rattlesnake for work and have shot IDPA out there. Send me a PM if still interested in them.

If I can find patch or stickers you can have them free.

If you PM your address I can mail you the tool if you want to try it yourself. Just send it back when your're done.

Trigger pull on Shields I've handled was very smiliar to stock M&Ps, but with a much more positive reset. You can definitely feel when it resets.

Talked with Randy Lee at NRA Conv and he said they're already working on APEX trigger for Shield.

7.62x54 are standard dies from Lee, Lyman and others. You can pick up set for under $30. Midsouth Shooters Supply has in stock if you can't find locally. S&B loads reloadable brass ammo, you'll see Winchester occasionally.

BB was at the NRA Convention. Didn't really spend a lot of time at their booth but you could hear their video an aisle in either direction.

At a minimum: lead, heat source to melt it, something to hold it while it's melting, bullet mold, a way to lubricate the bullets. You may or may not need to size them depending on type of bullet and what diameter they drop from the mold. It can be gotten into very inexpensively. Oh yeah, a mindset to be safe! Molten lead is HOT and the vapors are nasty. There are probably some good threads out there and Caster can speak from tons of experience.

A good reason to take up reloading.

Cor-Bon DPX

If you had misfires with both XD and 1911 then it is most likely high primers. The firing pin on 1911s can extend way forward of the breachface and fire even a round with excessive headspace; striker fired guns' firing pins don't protrude so far. Seating primers ten thousandths below flush will maximize the sensitivity of the primer by properly seating the anvil on the priming compound. If the primer is seated high part of the force of the firing pin has to seat the primer and then then ignite it. If rounds go "click" on first hit and then "bang" on second strike it's a sign they are too high. Note that it's possible to crack the pellet of a high primer with the first strike and it'll never go bang after that.