DJTC45

you know I'd be interested in it.

good looking 1911, enjoy it.

Some of the Light Wheight Alum.Frame are marked made in Brazil, the loaded frames are marked NM GENSCO ILL. I believe the NM marked Frames are forged somewhere and all machineing and fitting are done here in the US.

Buy a Springfield Loaded.

Nice bird!! did you weigh it?

Most 1911 parts are going to need some fitting. As far as what parts are similar in the Commander and Govt. Model it will depend on if they are a series 70 or a series 80, some sights are a different  styles or cuts (basic models have a GI.Style Rear and a Post front while others have Novack Cuts for the Rear and dovetailed Front's) as stated in one of the posts above check out that site or this one 1911addicts.com   they both have a wealth of info.

willis68 I just got home and my knife was here, it's even better than I thought it would be. Thanks again.

Can't wait to get it, thanks again

Thanks PM sent.

Willis do you still have one left, if so PM me your info. Thanks

Yeah about another 40# and about another 60,000 primers. :rofl:

I've  got 24# of powder and 60,000 Large Pistol Primers and about 8500 200grn. 45cal. SWC. Getting ready to place an order for 10,000 more SWC. sometime this week.( I've got about 12,000 45's loaded up and about twice that amount in empty brass just waiting to be filed). :usa:

willis68 I just went to the mailbox and received my knife. Thanks this knife is spectacular it's better than I thought it would be, the pearl button release is a nice touch, and the two-tone blade contrast is perfect combo. Thanks again.   

Buy yourself a cheap 1911 $500 or less, and buy some good how to books and work from there. Start with learning how to fit the Grip Safety to the frame tangs, learn how the sear and trigger work and fit and go from there. That way you can learn,it's not hard but it's nothing you can build in a day it takes time and some tools will get expensive. Thats what I did and now I work on all my 1911's (Wilson's and my Night Hawk)

If the oven trick doesn't work use a soldering iron and place it on the back of the grip bushings and be careful using a flat screw driver you can mess up the slot easily. go to http://1911addicts.com and check out a set of Brian Challis Grip Bushings, they are great I'm not sure they come in Thin but do a search and see what comes up. There is a ton of info. over there and several well known 1911 gunsmiths that are on there and will answer any question you have along with any other member there also.  sorry double post

If the oven trick doesn't work use a soldering iron to heat them up, sometimes you can use a screw driver but be careful so that you don't "mess up the slot" that is in the bushings it's easy to do if your not paying attention, and also do not use an open flame to heat them. I'm going to suggest you look into buying a set of Challess grip bushings I believe that's how you spell it, go over to the 1911addicts.com  and do a search on grip bushings the guy's over there are really helpful and there is a ton of how to sections and several of the best 1911 gunsmiths are always on there and will answer any question you may have.  http://1911addicts.com

I sure did. Nice

Looks great. Gives me a great idea for my next one, but maybe a 10"-12" Blade, just sayin  :whistle:

Grand Torino I just did the opposite of you, I just switched from an ambi- safety to a single side Wide Bullet Proof Safety on my Springfield LW Operator. I only use Wilson Bullet Proof parts in all my 1911's they are worth the money. It's somewhat true that some fail because of a weak link that joins the two together but I have never seen or had one that failed. Yes it is true that some 1911 Manufactures add a ambi-safety to some models but sometimes you may need to order it as an option. ED Brown makes a good ambi-safety also and it's as good as the Wilson's, as far as the safety becoming disengaged while re-holstering it can happen but I've found that that only happens when your not paying attention when drawing from or re-holstering the weapon now that being said I have seen some that have been  poorly fit by someone who thought they new what they were doing when replacing them. It' not hard to do, but do yourself a favor and check out Wilson's You-Tube Channel there is a video on there that explains how to do so, believe me it's easy to mess up a $100+part(just ask me how I know). I've replaced every part on the LW Operator with Wilson Bullet Proof Parts my self (Sear,Disconector,Firing Pin Stop,Slide Release,Bullet Proof Hammer, and Strut, Extractor) I just finished up fitting a Wilson Flat Trigger to it this morning and getting ready to reassemble and function check everything before I try a live fire test to make sure everything is working properly. If you can build knives (and I know you can) you'll be fine fitting the ambi-safety, just read up a little and check out Wilson's You-Tube Channel, if you have any problems I would be glad to help you out just let me know, also remember to file a little and fit, file a little and fit until you have it right.

Put me down for one of these, I'll PM you when I get home from work tonight for payment address.

I finally had my back order filled by Mid South. Back on 1-9-14 I placed an order for two 8lb.jugs of  HP38 (I have been using W231 but I got down to my last jug and stopped reloading for a while) well 15months later they called and said it was in and they even honored the old price that was on it when I placed the order, now I can start back reloading for my 45's. Primers were easier to get I now have 55,000 of those.  :woohoo:

Good looking 1911, you did good for your first one, now learn everything you can about them especially when you go to do a complete tear down, it's easy just pay attention. Let us know how it shoots, also go and check out www.1911addicts.com  I'm a supporting member there and those guy's got a wealth of info. on there if you have any questions about anything 1911 related, also feel free to PM me any questions I'll be glad to answer them if I can, I own several 1911's and won't carry or buy anything else.

I just got my first PROTECH AUTO and I'm liking it. This one is a TR-4 Schaw Skull LTD. #23-#200. Scales are Bright Alum. with Barb Wire and Bricks outlined on the Handles with the Skull inset in the handle and Skull Lanyard. This knife rocks, opens good and firm you can tell it's a quality made Knife and it won't be my last. I which I could post some pics. but I don't have a photo bucket account or any other, why is it I can pull pics.off my computer and post them in the want adds but can't do it when posting in the normal discussion threads?

This is why I try to buy from reputable dealers online, but hey you never know when it's going to happen to you. It's sad that in this day in time that when things get copied and some poor individual lay's out a few hundred dollars for a knife and find out it's fake. That dealer needs to be turned in to Microtech.  

whiskeymaker  the above statement is very true, I recently got back into the Rifle scene and I have two Rem. 700's in 308. The 1st. one is a Rem. 700 AAC-SD 20"Bbl. 1-10 Twist, McMillian A5 Stock Bedded to the action, Surgeon Detachable Bottom Metal(Takes AI Mags)   Timney 510 Trigger(2lb pull) 20Moa Steel One Piece Rail and Steel 30mm Rings, and a Lepould 3.5x10x40 ILL.Mil Dot Scope. This one is by far not even close to what it really needs to be but it's getting there. Now the 2nd. one is a RITTEN PRESCION Rem.700 308cal. Mcrees Precision Alum. Chassis Folder Stock w/ 5rnd.Detachable Mag($750) 22"Krieger Rem. Varmit Contour Bbl.1-10 Twist w/ Target Crown, Jewel Trigger(set at less than a pound) PT&G One Piece Bolt w/ M16 style Extractor and Ejector, Badger Ordnance 20moa Steel Base w/ Lepould MK4 Steel Rings and a 4.5x14x50 Lepould Mil. Dot. This Action was built , tuned and trued by Wolf Precision for a total of $2100+. Both are capable of reaching out to 600yrds.+ with Fed.175grn.Match Ammo and shoot quarter size groups all day as long as the shooter does his job(and I need to practice a lot more to do so, I'm no marksmen by far but can hold my own at time) my point is you can put $2000+ into a build and still not have a shooter, one of the best Rem.700's I bought was from Dicks at a cost of $349 after rebates, it shot dime size groups at 100yrds.w/ the cheap scope it came with. I changed the stock, trigger, and put a good scope and base w/ rings on it and could shoot 3rnds.about the size of a nickel at 250yrds.w/ match ammo(168grn.Fed) and that was with the factory Bbl. and standard action. Here's a suggestion and my opinion(and you know what they say about those) I would change out the Stock Bell & Carlson (they have a solid Alum. Bedding Block and cost about $250 and I have one that maybe I could part with) McMillian, Manners(but now your getting up there $500+ depending on options) Change the Trigger out, Timney, and Jewell are some of the best and it isn't hard to do(believe me if I can do it anyone can) get a good set of Rings and a one Piece Base with or with out Moa. built in.(just remember if you chose a steel base get steel rings and vise-versa if you chose aluminum) and as good as scope as you can afford, now ammo is a different story do some searching and see what your Stock  Bbl. likes before changing it out(you may get lucky like I did with the one I bought form Dicks, but like a dumb ass I sold it to a buddy and he shoots completion with it now and hasn't changed a thing except he handloads)  here is a good site to check out and the guy's on there are pretty knowledgeable on the Rem.700 ( www.700rifle.com ) Hope this wasn't to long winded and maybe helps you on your way to enjoying your 700.