Caster

Willis, you need to write them and tell them to get their yarmulke outta their butt and make a tactical shotgun to complete the trifecta. I love it. One gun I SERIOUSLY lament selling is my Galil.

If I REALLY had the money and wants to build a top shelf AK, I would go with a threaded barrel. Either a milled reciever or threading the trunnion on a stamped. There was a company making new trunnions a few years ago, I would be willing to bet if they are made here in the USA, you could get one with a smaller hole to give you more options. Then I would turn my own barrel. They're not overly complicated. They do require a relief cut on the chamber end...at least the Yugo's did. Dammit, now I'm sitting here wanting to build one and I'm broke as a convict! Hmmm, a .300 blackout AK with an adapter for STANAG magazines. Then you'd have a .300 BLK AK with P Mags!

You bring up an interesting subject. Yes, you'll have most likely have to cut that on a new barrel. To do it and do it RIGHT, it needs to be done in a mill or an extremely sturdy drill press. You need to use an end mill to plunge cut until you have a flat bottom, then center drill and then drill half way through., then flip,and repeat being mindful to drill undersized. Then use an appropriate reamer to finish the hole. If you don't, you take a very big risk of a drill bit wandering around on you, especially at the start and finish because of the round edge of the barrel. That sucks I know. Using a barrel that already has the pin cut is a crap shoot. Maybe it's headspaced correctly, maybe not. I have heard of people elongating the barrel cut, but that's just begging for things to move. Were I to do another, I would want a short chambered barrel. I'd drill and tap the trunnion, install and pin the barrel and set the headspace with a chamber reamer before putting it in the reciever. Since the locking lugs are in trunnion, not the receiver, it can be done that way.

Of course not, I guess I really am one of those Mac snobs everyone hates. For the record, I just bought a new one. My old one finally died.....after 8 years. I rarely did the updates and I only had one or two little things fixed by a guy who used post here. Nicemac. They are stupid expensive but it's hard to fuss when I've used it for so long.

Windows is like the Anna Kournikova of software. Why it's so popular when there's so much better to be had is a mystery. I guess you can sell anything if you make it flashy enough.

Yep. The barrel is press fitted into the front trunnion and then pinned in place with a large dowel pin. Quite possibly the most difficult part of the build is removing and installing the barrel. My last two builds came with good barrels but I had to remove them to drill and tap the holes/get the old rivets out. I used a gear puller and a nickel (over the chamber) to pull it. Once removed I lightly sanded and polished the shank and trunnion bore. When it came time to reassemble, I put the barrel in the freezer overnight and heated the trunnion with a MAP gas torch. When you do this, you GOTTA have all your ducks in a row and get on with it!!! because the two parts will start to normalize quickly and if you ain't got it where you want it, you get to start all over.....or beat and wrench on the thing and end up chewing up your stuff to the point it looks like Century Arms built it. A good antisieze is your friend too.

If you're doing a screw build, you'll need some very high quality HSS drill bit (preferably 5%cobalt) to open the receiver holes. NorthDakota Spud does a full heat treat and they are fairly hard. I've done screw and rivet builds. Don't let the traditionalists brow beat you, screw builds are just good IF DONE RIGHT, but they can easily be done wrong. I used a 10/32. Thread contact is at a premium here so don't use 10-24. Use a high quality screw too. I ordered some stainless steel button headed cap screws. The screw heads on the trigger guard will have to be turned down because of how close they are. If you don't have a lathe, a drill and a file will work fine if you have the patience and a steady hand. Test everything with lots of grease if you use stainless. They like to gall and are a miserable SOB to get out if you strip the head out. Trust me. Once you know everything is right, I like to remove the screws from the trunnions one at a time, spray them out really good with brake cleaner then compressed air, then red locktite the crap out of them. Maybe later I'll post a picture of a Yugo M70 I did. Everything on an AK feels like an interference press fit so be careful and take your time. Move part tolerances are loose but nonmoving parts are TIGHT. Think twice, do once.

Whatever intend to shootin in. Each gun is different and that's the difference between reloading and handloading. Every gun I own has their own preferences and I load for each accordingly. Saving factory boxes from the trash at the range and marking them accordingly helps a lot.

L'Chaim!!!!       ...maybe not to your enemies.

Done with her? Hardly. Mostly done? Maybe but are we ever really done?? ....now, a nice titanium can out there would put a lot closer....yeah, I'm an enabler. Seriously though, very nice!

I'll double up what Johnson said there. No one makes a better AK receiver than North Dakota Spud.

For range ammo, Royal Range in Bellevue has managed to undercut Walmart by a few cents AND it's piled waist deep.  They probably have more than any three walmarts put together.

    And people wonder why I harp on about dirty tree huggin' hippies.  Filth, the lot of them.  

Best? A Hendsoldt 6-24x72 maybe?

HELL yeah!  I love that!!!!      

That's a beast. If it's still moving toward you after a magazine full from that....you're screwed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oO6wPWFMrCA

Seems to me the issue would lie with the mag catch and/or where the magazine bottoms out inside the gun. If there is enough 'wiggle room' for the magazine to be pushed up it could touch the bottom of the carrier. If it's putting pressure against the carrier it is not gonna cycle reliably. The top of the mag catch should hold the magazine so that it does fall out but the bottom of the mag catch should keep the magazine from being pushed further in. There should also be a shoulder inside the mag well for the magazine to bottom out on. Try resting the weight of the rifle on a bench and retracting the bolt, feeling for any resistance. You might have to do it several times both rested and unrested to learn the 'feel'.

Higher minimum wage means prices on everyday goods goes up to offset increased wages. No one wins. Most of us lose. Minimum wage should be dead set at 1¢ per day. Let the market and individual skills/work ethic set the actual pay rate. Capitolism works but you have to stop screwing with it and let it work for itself.

Can't be worse than shooting in the old Gun City Dungeon.

Hmmmm, mig be the next level of trap shooting. Take some skeets up just outta range and start dropping them. Sounds like fun!

I dunno, I ride the fence. On one hand, I don't like NOBODY telling me what to do. On the other hand, it seems extremely careless. As I posted earlier.....these things are computer controlled .....God knows a computer never malfunctioned and did something you didn't want it to. Suppose whatever keeps the copter oriented has a brain fart and shifts 90 degrees all the sudden? No sir, I don't think they should tell you not to do it, and I don't think people SHOULD be doing it. It's a shame common sense isn't wide spread, then this wouldn't be an issue.

That whole going blind thing a a myth. I proved that at age 13.

We've had one for the last two years. One of my customers works for them and put one in. I never see meter readers in my yard.

I don't know what you said Ugly, try typing in a bigger font.