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I've got a buddy in Florida who did a lot of coral reef diving. Since he had a lot of used range brass that he'd never have time to reload, he tossed some in his melting pot and fashioned this coral artwork. He says he has a lot of aluminum cans, too. I've heard of beating your swords into plowshares....but this!

Sold

Brand new staccato p with a surefire x300 for sale or for trade. I’ve sent 2 mags through it just to cycle a few rounds. Trades have to be of same value, but feel free to offer what you have. Depending on trade I will throw cash on top for right deal. Price to buy is 2,800$. Please text me at 305 878 0350, I’m in Spring Hill but can travel up to Franklin or Nashville for right deal. Thanks!!!!

Selling my great condition high standard supermatic trophy model 107 military. I inherited this from my grandfather. I have personally ran 50rds through it. It has had very little use it hadn't been shot in decades before I shot it. Price is $800.

For sale is a Ruger AR-556. I ran maybe 100 rds. through it, cleaned it, and it has been sitting ever since.I'm in the Tri Cities areas, and can travel to Knoxville or arrange to meet within a reasonable distance.

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I am trying to be mindful to not be “Internet gun guy“ and joint in on the dog piles so often these days. So I will leave the assessment of internal procedures to the folks who work there. All I can offer are procedures I used to ensure I did not hand a loaded firearm to a customer when I worked behind the counter at a gun store. I would lock the slide back, drop the magazine, inspect the chamber and mag well, inspect the magazine, release the slide, then re-insert the magazine. I would perform these actions every time I handled a firearm whether I was handing it to a customer, being handed it from the customer, or even just moving the firearm around inside the store.

I'm not surprised by this conclusion and rather expected it. Not because of you but because of the relationship that TGO has with Royal Range. Damned if I do, damned if I don't... so I just do. The fact remains that I'm allowed to have a personal opinion based on personal experiences. It's also probably worth pointing out that my opinion IS based on personal experiences rather than what I read on the Internet, newspaper, or heard on a news broadcast from a third party. Some folks would say that it makes my opinion a qualified opinion. The fact also remains that a negligent discharge occurred and that two people were wounded. That's not excusable, everyone was terribly lucky, and I would expect that changes in procedures will result because the folks that I've met at that range are squared away and won't ignore the fact that this happened or that there were check-points that failed to catch the loaded gun before it was handed to a customer. This is a good reminder to all of us that these tools, just like any tool, are dangerous and that skipping safety steps can and will result in injury or death. I'm just not out to crucify someone because of how the media chose to quote them.

Some more pictures. I also forgot to add that the barrel is 7 1/4" fluted.

Complacency breeds contempt. You get so used to handling guns that you don't pay attention anymore and just blindly go through the motions.

Have a Beretta 21a in 25acp for sale or trade. Dated 1995 via serial. Fun little DA/SA shooter with flip up barrel. Very little recoil and surprisingly accurate for such a little pistol. Just don’t shoot it much. Comes with 2 mags and a little leather IWB holster. Asking $400 In Berry Hill https://imgur.com/a/og10FWr https://imgur.com/a/4UgjcmV

Gander mountain size 12 boots never used tag on them says waterproof Aggressive tread 50.00. meet in Loudon or lenior city

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Brigade AR9 9mm, takes Glock style mags. Like new. Optic not included* $650 cash maryville area meet

All are the same blank made from 1/8" thick 1084 carbon steel. OAL is 8" with a 3 1/2" blade. All come with combo kydex/leather sheath shown. All have thumb jimping on spine. All fit the hand as shown in the first picture. They are each $75 shipped. I prefer payment by check or MO but PayPal is my only other option. 1. SOLD!!! Pecan handle with cocobolo accent. 2. SOLD!!! Padauk handle with G10 accent. 3. SOLD!!! Spalted oak and African blackwood with G10 accent. 4. SOLD!!! Hickory handle with G10 accent. 5. SOLD!!! African blackwood with ash accent 6. SOLD!!! Ash handle with cocobolo accent. Thankd for lookin!

16, yes it will come with 1.

Yeah, in your situation i would 100% go another way. Honestly, as vanilla as it is, a .30-06 will do all of that. .300WM/WSM the same but a bit quicker. Here's an incomplete list of chamberings that'll do everything you need without killing your barrel in a year (deep breath......) .270 (wsm/rsaum), .280, .280AI, 6.8 Western, 7-08, 7 mag (wsm/rsaum), .30-06, .300 mag (wsm/rsaum) 6CM, 6.5CM () .260, 6.5X55, .284, 7X57.......etc. Pick the right bullet & they'll all work admirably.

Bump for a great seller and a good deal!

7mm PRC on the 6.5 PRC case would be the answer. Gain several hundred rounds each barrel and more energy on target.

So much want..... Beautiful pistol, GLWS

Not a bad idea but I also can't tell you how many times over the years that I've seen prospective buyers of high-end pistols get worked up over the silliest of things like seeing a loaded chamber flag stuck into the breach of a Ted Yost, Ed Brown, Les Baer, etc. 1911. It's almost like the thought of anyone other than them, or the gunsmith who hand-crafted it, racking the slide somehow devalues the gun by $3,000. I doubt many people would care if someone crammed a chamber flag down the barrel of a Glock 19, though.

Thanks for the Shootingtargets7 referral. I just went online and found exactly what I needed for half the price I expected. Great advice!!!

Sale withdrawn. Colt government M1911A1. Serial number indicates this was manufactured in 1943 on Colt’s serial number search page. It was rebuilt in 1965 to national match standard by the U.S. government Springfield Armory. According to an American Rifleman article chart listing the nation match pistol rebuilds, this has all the correct markings and parts. It is in good condition but shows use as the original purchaser (the grandfather in law of my brother) was a competitive shooter. I’m including a spare NM barrel, NM barrel bushing, eight magazines and a hard case. $1800.00. As shipping with FedEx and UPS has gotten very difficult, a face to face meeting in the Greeneville/Johnson City area is needed. I am a FFL-03 license holder so I’ll have to have your Tennessee ID, log any sale in my book and sign a bill of sale. Thanks for looking!

Might be time to invest in a load o chamber flags…

I hate you guys. Every time I get to the point of saying I'm not going to buy any more guns, along comes some yahoo, that gets me revved up again. Now I want the Doctor Cut Dagger! But it will have to wait till I get my Ruger PCC out of Layaway (next month). Damn...

I myself would consider it completely risk free, as long as you are disciplined and the US Government still exists. What you will need: Unbreakable Discipline A Budget (I recommend YNAB) A TreasuryDirect Account An Existing Income Existing Living Expenses Good Credit and New Credit Card In a nutshell, I’ll explain what we are doing. We are buying Series I Savings Bonds from the Treasury. If you have $10,000 sitting aside for investment purposes only (or $20,000 if married), I’ll keep this short. You can buy $10,000 per person per year of Series I Savings Bonds. Done! However, I know there are many very responsible people that do not yet have $10,000 sitting aside for investment purposes. This is for whom this is for. This is a **nearly** risk free way to leverage a new credit card and make some interest off doing so. Let me first describe what Series I Savings Bonds are. They are a Savings Bond sold by the Treasury to hedge against inflation. They are greatly described in this article. I’ll make a few remarks here: They have to be held a minimum of 12 months If redeemed in the first five years, your earned interest in reduced by 3 months Their Composite Rate is adjusted twice a year (November and May) The Composite Rate is calculated by a fixed rate (fixed when the Bond is issued) and the Semiannual Inflation Rate The current rate is 9.62% The exact formula for the Composite Rate is: [fixed rate + (2 x semiannual inflation rate) + (fixed rate x semiannual inflation rate)] = Composite Rate The current fixed rate for Bonds being issued is 0%. Since the fixed rate is 0%, the formula looks like this: 0% + (2 x 4.81%) + (0 x 4.81%) = 9.62% Although these Bonds can be held for 30 years if desired, if inflation is nonexistent then the rate of return will be 0% as the fixed rate is also 0%. Bonds purchased through the rest of the month of October will have the 9.62% rate for six months, then at that point the rate will adjust to whatever the rate set in November 2022. Every six months, the rate will keep adjusting. If inflation is high the rate will be high, if inflation is 0% the rate will be 0%. However, the purchase amount will never go down, the only way you could theoretically lose money is if somehow the Treasury defaulted on these Bonds. If that happens, I’m of the opinion your cash money would be worthless anyways and you should have bought gold, silver, or lead. Now, let us consider a budget. I reconcile all my accounts to the penny, including cash, nearly everyday. YNAB allows me to do this easily and is essentially the “Envelope Method” in digital form. You get paid, you put the money into budget categories, when you spend the money shifts from the categories. This is where a function of this whole entire idea is made very easy. If you use a credit card for spending, the dollar amount budgeted for and spent gets moved from a specific budget category into a specific credit card category reserved for making your credit card payment. It is very easy to shift this reservation for payments into another category, such as one for Series I Bonds. Here is an example of what I’m describing: You get paid $100.00. You budget this money into the “Electric Bill” category. You use your credit card to pay the $100.00 Electric Bill. The $100.00 value gets moved from “Electric Bill” to “Credit Card Payments”. You manually move the $100.00 from “Credit Card Payments” to “Series I Savings Bonds”. Then you purchase $100.00 in Series I Savings Bonds and the budgeted amount shifts from $100.00 to $0.00. This is all very important, as it forces us to only carry debt on the credit card that we have backed by buying Savings Bonds. The only other piece of the puzzle is having a new credit card with a 0% introductory rate for about 15 months (or more). Any card that meets those criteria would work, but I have a few favored: Chase Freedom Unlimited (1.5% Unlimited Cash Back, $200 Bonus, 0% Interest for 15 Months) Chase Freedom Flex (5% Rotating Cash Back, $200 Bonus, 0% Interest for 15 Months) Discipline is required here. If you open a new credit card and buy things that you normally would not have bought, that is living outside your means and you will not come out ahead by doing any of this. If you try this method and only spend money that you would have spent irregardless, that is how you can come out ahead here. Only charge things like utilities, gas, insurance, cable, internet, property taxes, etc. Ultimately, you are putting your living expenses on a card that doesn’t have to be paid back for 15 months. You are taking the cash that you would have used to pay these bills and buying Bonds that have a guaranteed return. Then you can redeem the Bonds in 12-15 months and pay off the credit card, then keep the extra for yourself. How much you make is dependent on how many bonds you buy and what the rate does in November. I’ll make a “worse case” scenario here: $10,000 purchased at the 9.62% rate (you can think of it as 6 months of 9.62% is half that at 4.81%) = $481.00 Chase Freedom Bonus = $200.00 1.5% Cash Back on $10,000 = $150.00 That’s $831.00 minimum, and that’s the worse case scenario of the Composite Rate going to 0% in November. If it were to stay in the 9.62% range, that’d be another profit of $481 over those remaining 6 months. Worse case, $10,000 nets $831, or 8.31% for a 12 month investment. If the rates "stay the same", you'd be looking at roughly net $1,312 or 13.12% for a 12 month investment. These percentages include the credit card bonuses and cashback. Tips and Tricks: I like buying the Bonds in $100.00 increments. It may be more trouble long term but it will also make redeeming them to exact amounts much easier. For example, if you charge $10,000 to the credit card and buy in $10,000, that’s what you’ll have to redeem. But if you buy in $100.00 increments, you can redeem them at $100.00 + whatever earned interest. So if over the next 15 months you make the minimum payment (or more) towards the credit card, you may only owe $9,000 in 15 months. In this case, you could redeem roughly 90 (actual number would be less, because of the earned interest) to pay off the credit card in full. Then you’d have 10 Bonds still earning interest if the rate stays high. Since those all would have been held for at least 12 months, they are very liquid and could almost be treated as a savings account, emergency fund, etc. After fully reaching your $10,000 spent, money redirected, and Bonds purchased, lock the credit card online and destroy the physical card. Don’t use it for anything else. You do not want to spend more than you can pay back in the 15 months. Use something like Apple or Google Calendar to set reminders in the future to pay this off. You do not want to setup auto-pay on the credit card for the minimum payments and then "sleep" past the introductory period. Risks: Do not purchase anything that you normally wouldn’t have purchased. Doing so means you are generating debt without increasing assets. A $2,000 MacBook Pro may sound nice, but if you cannot back the $2,000 purchase by redirecting the cash to buying Bonds, you are truly just adding a $2,000 decrease to your Net Worth. If you can back the purchase by buying $2,000 in Bonds, your Net Worth actually stays the same as if you had paid cash for the purchase. Carrying $10,000 in credit card debt will lower your Credit Scores. This may or may not be an issue. If you don’t plan on utilizing a high Credit Score to get a great rate for a house or other important loan then I wouldn’t worry about it. If in November the rate stays high (I’m going to consider this anything of about 5% or higher, not only could one continue to do this all the way through April of 2023 but your $10,000/person limit also resets in January. In other words, if the rates are high, you can repeat this year by year with new credit cards. Sidenotes: This isn’t for everyone, only those disciplined enough to dig deep into the details and make it work. I love doing “stuff like this”. It drives many people crazy as “it isn’t worth it”. I disagree and also love doing “stuff like this”. Look, be careful. If you somehow try this and screw it up, it isn't my fault. On that note, there is also a possibility that I missed something big and it may not workout for me either. Do your own homework and figure out if this is right for you. If you screw it up, it isn't my fault. If you see something that I don't, let me know! Many of the above links are affiliate links and I may receive monetary benefit if any of the services are subscribed to using those links.

I am not sure if you may be exaggerating a bit to make a point or justify passing, or if its simply that some real tools previously owned some of the guns mentioned. But my smallish representative sample of HK's dont do what you're claiming to have run into. P30S, HK45CT, and USP45 Expert. The P30 has exactly zero movement on its right release. The HK45 has just under half a millimeter. And nothing on the Expert. The right release is what comes off when removing the slide. If you dont seat it all the way, it can wobble on the shaft and result in some play. I did see one genius on the HK forum complaining about it being "too tight" and sanded down the splines, and then complained about it being loose. I can imagine there could be production variance that could be excessive, but in most cases I think its fair to say the problem is a person who thinks they know how to work on guns but may not be the case. Wouldn't be too surprised by some just not pushing them on all the way just because they think its far enough or leaving it a looser will make it easier to strip. Either way, I put mine all the way on, and they dont wobble, flop, or move around. My only complaint is they tend to make the left side (being right handed) release levers too darn long so they can get ridden, and trigger reset is long. Grays has a great short reset kit, and their factory match hammer and spring combo tend to interchange and give a basis for a very nice trigger (expect for P30). The P30 out of the box took a bit of trigger work, more than others. All worth it in the end, great running pistols. The USP Expert is a tack driver out of the box,

It is what it is. This is something we cannot change. The major oil companies held the line and made record profits. As usual some of you are angry at the wrong person. If you’re really angry, stop buying gas. Capitalism baby!

Gas prices are speculative. Gas stations buy it from the distributor at the price at the time. The variance comes from when the gas station bought the reserves. Some stations buy up front when prices are low on contract and so pump prices stay lower longer. Some have to buy when they can and buy at the price of the moment. It's no different than any other commodity.

Good lord, as someone who sells firearms part time you are very correct. We have one customer who wants to break the gun down and inspect it with a flashlight before buying....... I'm not talking about a 2,000.00 gun, just normal glocks and such. I just go with it these days.