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I was happy to see that each one I was considering was mentioned in this thread. Every one of them has positive reviews but I think I've narrowed it down to a couple. The CZ 455 was discontinued in 2018 and replaced with the CZ 457 and it was a little more than I wanted to pay for a toy. A little info on it is here: https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-457-american/ I am a huge Ruger fan but absolutely hate the stocks on the Americans. I haven't figured out yet what it is but something about them just doesn't feel right to me. I know they're available with wooden stocks but those are up there in the CZ price range. That leaves me with the Marlin XT 22M and the Savage 93 F. I can get the Marlin with a wooden stock or the Savage with synthetic stock for the same price. I've also found the Marlin with a synthetic stock for about $30 less than the wooden one but am willing to pay the difference for the wood. The synthetic stock on them feels really cheap compared to the one on the Savage. Thanks for all the imputs

Thought I’d share a few of the camo schemes I’ve messed with. Nothing fancy and far from professional but thought I’d share. Maybe someone may get the nerve to do it on their own. Somewhat of a tree bark imitation trial here. My first ever camo job. Some of you probably remember me posting this years ago. This was done using only black and grey for something different. Nothing special, just wanted some FDE break up. This is the rifle is use for coyote hunting most of the time. A guy at work made some vinyl cutouts he wanted me to try out and this is what I was able to do. Adhesive vinyl would definitely be much cleaner but it works to break up the outline if you’re in a pinch or hurry. I was not happy with the pattern after trying out the stencils so the next picture is how I finished the look Definitely more broken up and “camouflaged”. I want to get it outdoors and see how well it’s hidden in the woods. My mk18! This turned out pretty cool looking. Basically this is brushed with dark earth. I used a thin foam brush, dabbed some little areas of dark earth paint and “smeared” the brush back and forth. It turned somewhat burnt bronze-ish. I liked the look, but it didn’t break up the silhouette as much as I wanted. But as you’ll see in the next picture this outcome worked very good for the base layer color. Here is how the mk18 looked after I applied some FDE and more dark earth. I’m much happier with this. My Rem 700 SPS Tactical in .308. Base layers are Aluma Hyde od green, brushes in fde, dark earth, and finally some small sections of black to finish it off. Very happy with how this one turned out! Edit: Forgot to add my Remington 870 so here it is. Edit Part 2: Adding the Savage 110 Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor pictures. With barrel and scope painted:

Picked this one up yesterday to replace the ECO I parted with to help fund a motorcycle purchase. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but hopefully soon!

Folks, I spent a few hours yesterday morning out at Stone River Range, and it was shamefully bereft of shooters for a Saturday morning. Yes, it's a busy weekend in the area, yes it was going to rain later in the day...but still, there were never more than six shooters at the rifle range for the entire time I was out there. That's probably a dozen open lanes sitting barren on what should be a busy shooting time of the weekend. I admit that recently, I've been slacking in my own range time as work and life get in the way of things, but I think we owe it to ourselves, and the resources we hope to have around to utilize them as comfortably as we can financially.

Welcome. Our permits are Handgun Carry Permits. Carry any way you want. The good news is the signs are seldom if ever inforced beyond telling you to leave but unfortunately do have penalties if they are enforced. You will have to take an 8 hour course (unless I missed a change in the last 4 years) but other than cost (they vary but most are around $50) are easy including the live fire. Total time for me from course to permit in hand was about 10 days. I moved with a NY and UT out of state CC plus I had two NRA pistol courses with live fire but none counted.

Maybe it’s because they’re plastic.

It come in at 650 LBS, yes I will loan it out. You just have to come and pick it up. As well as pulling close to 90 amps at full weld power.

My 44 JP Sauer and Uberti Stallion 22 convertible

Aaron's Outdoors. He's out of Old Hickory but I'm pretty sure he covers Clarksville. Top notch work and very competitive prices. 615-517-6830. My neighbor used Tennessee Landclearing to clear some growth a couple of years ago. They had a lot of difficulty understanding which trees to leave and which trees to take, even though the ones that they wanted to keep had flagging tape wrapped around the trunks. It sucks when they take down all of your oaks and leave you hackberries and cedars.

Talk to some of the local farmers in the area, they should know anyone local that does land clearing.

Can't help on a referral but I would guess you don't want to pay a Nashville company to do it. They likely would charge you a fortune, given all the work available here in town. I would look in Clarksville or go to the other side of town. Home Advisor lists these two:

Very nice. I really like. Let’s us know how it shoots after you take it out.

I didn't see the excitement at $99 - $149

It has arrived! Shooter condition. Bluing on barrel is like new except for wear at muzzle and a few surface scratches. Receiver is worn, has a great patina from 60 years of handling, and bluing fades back in about 1/2 of the way up and over the top. I think the case hardening pattern in the lever is beautiful. Leupold VX2 - 7 x 33 with fancy flip caps, oh so clear and non distorted. Cheek weld is fine at 2, when I start zooming, I have to move my head a bit. Inspecting the innards through the ejection port, I think this rifle has a low round count - not much if any visible wear including the breech face. The action is smooth and it does satisfy my desire for a level gun. I think the trigger is fine, when I shoot I'll figure out if it is good. The actual trigger itself is wide, serrated, and smooth with virtually no take up and clean break. .300 Savage has an interesting history as does the 99, which is also appealing to my ecletic sensibilities. I do have both the ladder and rear peep sights as well.

DW makes some of the best 1911s out there

Last weekend I drive to the Ridge in Dayton, TN to assist and participate in Defensive Concepts for Low Light Environments. Randy Harris, founder of Harris Combative Strategies was our instructor. Class start was 6pm, we had 15 students, including 3 ladies. Having never shot at night, i was looking forward to it. No fancy gear, my trusty CZ 75B with 10 year old OEM night sights, Safariland accordion-style universal single mag pouch (works like a champ) and new Fenix UC35 flashlight with up to 1000 retinal burning lumens. This particular flashlight was $89.95 at SMKW, selected based on previous experience with the LD05, on board USB charger, and 2 battery choices. I am NOT a light expert, so this is opinion. A good flashlight runs $60+ depending on features. A good flashlight makes for an excellent striking weapon or use to break glass. Combination of classroom and range work. Here's what I learned: It is not illegal anywhere in the world to carry a flashlight in your hand. As a rule, people don't like to get flashed, so a blast of light from waist down with a firm, "I'm sorry, I can't help you," should be pretty effective. For me, I get to see his hands For him, I've added a huge question, who carries and uses a flashlight? At the very least, not your typical antelope. If unable to disengage, a blast to the eyes, with, "hey buddy back off," gives about 2-3 seconds of time before the potential bad guy has clear vision. To know is from experience, so we all got blasted in low light, but not dark - that was later. If a light blast to the eyes doesn't dissuade the predator, and he's close, strike him in the face with that well made, machined aluminum with fantastic gripping surfaced cylinder of hurt. Sounds really John Wick like, but really a simple gross motor skill. Then it was dark and time to shoot. I discovered there was enough ambient light from the other shooters illuminating their targets, I didn't really need more light. I also discovered positioning the light is important to avoid losing my front sight from splash along the top of the slide. Other musings When I would step to the rear to hydrate, I was about 25 yards from the firing line. As 8 students were shooting and flash illuminating at different tempos, it was chaotic to experience. Point being, a running gun battle at night is scary. I came to the realization that I've been approaching this shooting thing the hard way; day light, two hands, can easily see the target. 10 yards, move to cover, engage strong hand, flashlight however you want to manage it, 6" steel, don't hit the bystander or The Suit. Ding Ding ding Ding ding ding Ding ding ding (Randy didn't say exactly how many) ding. I'm also pleased with my overall progress with slide lock reloads. If nothing else, a fun confidence booster. Feedback from the class: start earlier due to volume of content, convert dry erase to PowerPoint for classroom. Last drill, a little after midnight, only ambient is starlight, no moon, and it's dark in Dayton. After I flash you in the face, when you can see the target, draw and fire. I'd estimate 20-30 seconds in my case and almost a minute for full night vision. Tremendous amount of time to do a variety of things. Tips from Randy: Turn off the lights when practicing dry and add your light. Hit a mirror to experience what the BG will experience in different light levels. I am an unpaid spokesperson and talented valet for Randy Harris and Harris Combative Strategies.

More on the free welder. Tested the TIG function as "scratch" start and that worked well, but we have to turn the gas on and off by hand with the tank valve. After rereading the notes that the past owner made we guessed that he had replaced the bad board. We used the peddle pig tale switch wires to try the board TIG function, and the spark gap system worked, (scared my son as he was sitting right next to it). The spark is a sign the high frequency is working and will jump a gap and start the arc for the TIG to work. We have picked up a 10K Potentiometer(same that is in the factory peddle) with on/off switch. Wired this to the TIG peddle pig tale. We worked the "POT/SWITCH" by hand and the machine will TIG as it should. I thank Terry again for the welder.

Anything Dan Wesson is awesome...best 1911 guns for the money imho

I'm curious and like the bronze two tone. Willing to wait for a few production runs to get the cerakote and any early mechanicals dialed in.

Plus, you never know when you might run into this guy

Duh. A 22 LR will kill a squirrel, but a 22 Magnum will kill him dead.